Finish keeps getting ruined by dust, any tips? Also weird primer cracks...

jake789 · 06-01-2009, 10:41 PM

First problem is that the primer I'm trying to use is not working out. But its not a big deal since the paint I'm using for my final coat says it doesn't need a primer. But I just thought it was weird and wondering if anyone can tell me why its doing it.

But my real problem now is that when trying to do the final coat it keeps getting ruined by dust. I can't really paint it anywhere but my garage because of ventilation issues anywhere else... Any tips/tricks to keep the paint from getting ruined by dust? (I'm using that Fusion paint, satin black)

Also, I was thinking it might be cool to get the same texture as the rest of the dash (the dust wouldn't be noticable), anyone know of any products that can get this type of texture?

Curiosity · 06-02-2009, 12:11 AM

Are you using a paint box or tent? Just a large cardboard box with painter's plastic canvas or just the plastic. It keeps dust out and paint dust from covering everything in the garage. Angle the surface facing out, so the rattle can or airbrush can stay in the best position, and have the plastic so you can flip it down when you're done without touching it.

Oh, and never leave wet paint facing up!

jake789 · 06-02-2009, 01:48 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Curiosity

Are you using a paint box or tent? Just a large cardboard box with painter's plastic canvas or just the plastic. It keeps dust out and paint dust from covering everything in the garage. Angle the surface facing out, so the rattle can or airbrush can stay in the best position, and have the plastic so you can flip it down when you're done without touching it.

Oh, and never leave wet paint facing up!

That sounds like a great idea, I'll try that. Not sure how I can get around not leaving the wet paint facing up though, I can try hanging it if I get a big enough box. Thanks for the reply

Crinos · 06-02-2009, 04:18 AM

Use some issulated wire to hang the parts you are going to paint.

An old-school garage painter trick is to keep the floor wet at all times. This prevents dust "taking off" from the floor, and add a fan to blow out much of the dust particle in the air about 30 minuntes or so before you start spraying.

Or.. You could go with 3-5 layers of primers, and wetsand it down every time.

NB: A skilled sander can get a "wet-black" color to look like black chrome

A REALY big NB:
Make sure that the paint you are using is based for plastic. If not... Chances are that it heats up the plastic while you apply the paint, and deforms the top layer of the plastic when it cools down again. (I had this problem, when I tried using metal paint on plastic parts).

blk02si · 06-02-2009, 10:16 AM

^^^ This is meant for exterior automotive finishes on metal, it's not formulated for plastic at all, that is why it is cracking.

Pick up some fusion plastic primer and you should be all set.

@Crinos, I like the "wet-floor" idea, interesting and very effective i'm sure.

jake789 · 06-02-2009, 02:14 PM

I'm using this paint in satin black. It says it doesn't need a primer. Do you guys think I should still go out and buy a new primer to use? Or just do a few layers of paint. (I did 3 coats in the pics above, I think it turned out good overall except for the dust)

blk02si · 06-02-2009, 02:59 PM

you can also consider a textured paint as it will cover those specs up. high gloss paint is very hard to hide any imperfections.

MindDrive · 06-02-2009, 03:03 PM

or ya can go to a fabric store and get a yard of vinyl or plastic leather (plether) and skin your project instead of painting it... but more than likely you would have to sand all the paint off to get the glue to stick good

Crinos · 06-02-2009, 04:05 PM

I'm not going to write a long article about perfect paint jobs... there's lots of them out there... google is your friend

But for short.

1. Sand down plastic for the primer to stick
2. apply PLASTIC primer. let dry for atleast 30-45 minutes.
3. use a mild grid paper and lightly sand it down.
Now... you will probably remove alot of the primer in this process, and that is OK!
4. apply plastic primer again, and let it dry for 45-60 minutes.
5. use even milder grid paper, and sand it down even lighter

PS: OK this is the hard part. Repeat 4-5 untill everything is nice and smooth.

6. apply plastic primer again.... let dry for about 30-45 minutes.
7. WET SAND it down with VERY high grid paper... 2000 or so is nice for starters.
8. apply a very thin coat of primer
9. wet sand it lightly with lots of water, and "as high as possible" grid paper.
10. Let dry, and wait a day or two.

For the color....

Basically the same thing... apply color, sand down, and repeat.. use finer and finer grid paper.
One should apply color about 3-4 times (thin layers).

Now... you should be ready for the clear coat, and a glossy finish. In fact, it should be as glossy that you could mirror yourselves in it

NB: I do NOT recomend this as a guid if you are going to paint something. Only as a referance... There is as said... Loads of "HowTOs" on google

Curiosity · 06-02-2009, 05:48 PM

Wetting the floor. Great idea!

Also, a guide coat is a great way to ensure a uniform surface. Pretty simple. Spray a thin coat of another color over it, wait, then wet sand it all off. Any pits or scratches will be quite visible. Work them out with a little extra sanding.

bratnetwork · 06-02-2009, 08:03 PM

I used the wet floor technique when I painted my motorcycle fairings. Works great. I just hung the parts with mechanics wire from my lift in my garage at work and washed the floor down and painted. The only downside is that it creates a bit of humidity. But for the type of paint you're using it wont effect it.

Nexson · 06-02-2009, 09:29 PM

Dust is usually un-avoidable, which is why we can buff them out in the clear coat. You should be using SEM products because they dry within second so no dust forums.

Nexson · 06-02-2009, 09:32 PM

Oh, and as for the primer, it should go on smooth, either you are putting it on way to thick or the surface underneath is wet.

jake789 · 06-02-2009, 10:42 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Nexson

Dust is usually un-avoidable, which is why we can buff them out in the clear coat. You should be using SEM products because they dry within second so no dust forums.

Can anyone point me to the correct clear coat that I should order?
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/aeroclear.aspx

Also what do you guys mean by buffing, would that be with a dremel/buffing wheel or with rubbing compound.

I'm thinking maybe I should do gloss black instead of satin black. Any comments/suggestions??

Sorry if this is common knowledge, I did search google and I guess I just don't know the proper terms to search for because I'm not really finding anything....

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