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Old 06-26-2004, 08:34 PM   #46
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fiberglass is easy, heres the easy way to get anything smooth and nice. take 100% fleece staple or glue it over your frame. mix your resin and hardner. cover all the fleece. 20 minutes later youshould be dry. take 50% bondo 40%resin and 10% liquid honey. (its a fiberglass thinner) mix with hardener pour over the fiberglass. do this 2 or 3 times and youll have a smooth finished product.
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Old 06-27-2004, 02:18 PM   #47
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hrmm bondo? they make a lot of products, my fiberglass resin is bondo, so which bondo. And fleece? can i goto a fabric store and buy fleece, or is there a special fiberglass fleece i need? and what about complicated projects like my indash frame for a touchscreen?
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Old 06-27-2004, 05:08 PM   #48
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Any fleece is fine, the higher the poly count the better. I got mine at a craft store.
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Old 10-08-2004, 03:29 AM   #49
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Ok, I have a question. I've glass'd a few things, and used a thinner peice of material, like that used on a white undershirt or thinner like panti hose type of material. But here's one of my projects, the trunk behind the engine is pretty much just a deep rectangular hole with a few round area's, and it is carpeted, under the carpet is metal. how would you make this space a fiberglass space instead of carpet? Would you use the carpet thats allready laid and just start brushing the resin/bondo stuff onto it? or what?
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Old 11-02-2004, 05:09 PM   #50
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you could do that. just put tape under the carpet if you plan on ever taking out the piece. as for teh fleece, go to walmart. i got 100% poly fleece for like $1.25 a yard. never use fabric with more than ~25% cotton(sucks too much resin, and shrinks like a mofo) you can also use speaker grill cloth, old t-shirts, almost any fabric thats streachy. fleece will prob be the best tho.oh, and when peeps say bondo, most of the time they refer to auto body filler(pink stuff you see on the sides of ghetto-*** cars) there are better options than bondo out there tho. google for rage gold, its more expensive, but its easier to sand(and the easier to sand, the better.)on a small piece, you'll prob spend about 1-2 hours just sanding(if not more)
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Old 11-02-2004, 05:18 PM   #51
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oh, and for the hairball on the brush, dont actually "brush" the FG, its more of a dabbing or stabbing motion. that way you dont get fg on the brush, and you get out the air pockes(your worst enemy) also use the cheapest brushes you can get, you will not be able to use them again after youre done.there is also woven fg cloth. it looks like carbon fiber, but white, and not as strong.should be right next to the mat in the paint section of home depot, or in most auto parts stores.
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Old 11-02-2004, 05:20 PM   #52
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damn i just relized this tread is old as hell.
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Old 11-16-2004, 08:01 AM   #53
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Well I too have done a fair amount of fiberglassing I've found that if you use Spandex it will stretch in four directions. Other materials mentioned in the forum do not, this way you do not get any sagging and you can stretch to your hearts desire. Also on large flat surfaces you can use Speaker box carpet two layers of glass and your done. It does stretch if you get the right stuff and you also can do slight contours around subs and what not.
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Old 04-04-2005, 02:50 AM   #54
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so what I thought was true about FB is....sweet, taking the dive when my order of stuff gets here....props to the old thread
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Old 05-04-2005, 05:05 AM   #55
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im gonna pop out my two center vents to make room for a screen and slim cd.
this is gonna leave an awkward shape in my dash
whats best, to fab up a module to fit to the shape left behind ortry and reproduce the whole piece (quite big)
gonna nip down the scrappy to see if i cangrab an old one
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Old 05-04-2005, 07:35 AM   #56
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Forget it - its like my entire dash!!!
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Old 05-04-2005, 05:20 PM   #57
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Quote: Originally Posted by cheerio
OMG, i just did a test run on fiberglassing, and JESUS christ. OK, i was using fiberglass matt(there HAS to be an easier way) and the threading just brushes off with more brushing. Then i have a big hairball of matting. THEN my brushes are destroyed every time i do it, etc etc. NOW, what are easier methods than using matting, i was reading about foam, that seems very intresting and a lot easier than matting. Any suggestions?

If you are using fg matt using a dabbing action.
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Old 09-04-2005, 03:14 AM   #58
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Yeah, dabbing makes it a lot easier.
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Old 10-21-2005, 12:21 PM   #59
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Sorry for the resurection but I am sick of spending the money and waiting for someone else to do simple stuff I want, so I am looking into learning how to do this myself. I understand that it will take a while to learn but you have to start sometime so I want to start practicing on a bunch of junk until I get the hang of it.

I am under the impression that you need:

Thin Polyester Fleese
Sanding Block
Fiberglass Resin
Hardener
Fiberglass(choppmatt or Weave)
Rubber Gloves
Cheap Brushes cut short for better "stabbing" lol
respirator
measuring cup
Pale
mising stick
Acetone
Bondo
Blue sand paper

Is that about it? What is the difference between choppmatt and weave? And where can you get all these supplies? Mainly resin, hardener, fleece, riberglass, acetone , and bondo? And about how much am I looking to spend? If it eclipses the cost of someone else doing it...lol
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Old 10-24-2005, 10:12 AM   #60
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I bought 10 square yards of chopmat, a gallon of resin (and hardner) 2 respirators, brushes, and rollers for $110 from www.uscomposites.com

this is so simple to do, really, you figure it out as you go. AS for the difference between mat and weave, the mat is a giant cluster **** of strands, and the weave is more like fabric.
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