Fiberglassing Tips? - Page 7

Sidewalksalvage · 05-16-2006, 10:32 PM

Okay heres a bit more to clear up what I was talking about.
The attached are a few diagrams on sealed box enclosures from the book
"The car stereo cookbook" by Mark Rumreich. It shows a few different sub box and subwoofer set ups and pros and cons. I HIGHLY suggest the book if you are serious about a good system or just an audio enthusiast.

nodnarb · 05-17-2006, 07:29 AM

Thank you, very helpful. When I was talking aboyt layers I was talking about fiberglass layers (how may layers, and how thick they would be), But thank you for the advice on the paint. I was going to need it later.

Sidewalksalvage · 05-17-2006, 07:35 PM

lol aright..cool

JasonWW · 06-10-2006, 02:21 PM

I've got a new question for the fiberglass pros out there. I'm thinking of buying a used fiberglass hood of which I will sand, repaint, etc... , but the thing that was originally wrong was it has paint bubbles. Do you think it was something in the fiberglass that caused the bubbles, or was it the paint?

I'd really like to know, because if I get the hood and repaint it, I don't want it to bubble again on me. Anyone know?

Sidewalksalvage · 06-10-2006, 04:21 PM

I really doubt that its something in the fiberglass. I think it was the type of paint used...but then again...im not an expert

AZ_Silverado · 06-14-2006, 12:56 AM

I've been browsing through this forum and learned some pretty good stuff.
I've done a few fiberglassing projects in the past and I'm getting ready to start one on my younger brother’s truck this weekend.

Here is something that might help some of you making speaker enclosures that will cut out a lot time from the process. I don't think anyone has posted this yet, but I didn't read through everything:

Fiberglass mat sucks to work with. After you have applied resin to the material that you stretched over you speaker rings why ruin a nice smooth surface with mat. There is fumed silica power called Aerosil, that when mixed with fiberglass resin and hardener creates a thick paste. You can then cut out a small section from the back of the enclosure, dump this stuff in and spread it around with a cheap paint brush making sure you get the corners where your material comes into contact with your speaker rings, sides, back, etc. You can repeat this as needed making it up to as thick as ¼’’.

That was kind of a quick and dirty version of that process. If you would like some more details let me know and I’ll try and help you as much as possible. I’m looking for the link that I purchased my Aerosil from. Here’s a pic of what the bag looks like.

hsczp9 · 07-10-2006, 06:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mp3z24

fiberglassing ... step by step

http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/glassing2/

~mike

that was really helpful, appreciate that find

3D Warrior · 08-15-2006, 10:53 AM

has anyone ever fiber glassed in the middle of the winter?
Was wondering if the extreme -C temperatures effect how reason goes on and cures... and if it effects structural properties when it's done drying...?
My garage in not heated and i need to fiber glass my trunk later this year...

Naamanf · 08-15-2006, 10:55 AM

I would try to keep the temp above about 60deg. If you do have to do it in a cold garage use a space heater and heatgun to keep it warm. Don't start a fire.

3D Warrior · 08-15-2006, 11:09 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Naamanf

I would try to keep the temp above about 60deg. If you do have to do it in a cold garage use a space heater and heatgun to keep it warm. Don't start a fire.

I guess i should realy herry up before it's cold out again... and do it...

98EXL · 08-15-2006, 02:15 PM

yes, do it now

globalshock · 08-15-2006, 10:31 PM

Hey guys, I just made a complete dash for my car ( the console is next) and i tried something new. I bought a case of floral foam and hot glued the bricks together, then cut and shaped and sanded them down to the shape that i wanted, which was to be the final look of the dash. then i put down masking tape ( not needed because the soft floral foam will not melt in the presence of resin)then i threw on a coat of resin, a layer of chopped strand mat (www.fiberglasssite.com) and dabed on more resin. sanded 'er up, some body filler in places, sanded primed, gauges set in, wired, and used. yall should try that, its so much easier then dealing with mdf. and you dont need a jig saw to cut out the rings n such.

Naamanf · 08-15-2006, 10:44 PM

Pictures?

globalshock · 08-17-2006, 09:14 AM

yeah, i do have some pictures i think they are lost on the chip in my camera. il get them up here fore the days over with.

Escalade182 · 08-17-2006, 09:22 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JasonWW

I've got a new question for the fiberglass pros out there. I'm thinking of buying a used fiberglass hood of which I will sand, repaint, etc... , but the thing that was originally wrong was it has paint bubbles. Do you think it was something in the fiberglass that caused the bubbles, or was it the paint?

I'd really like to know, because if I get the hood and repaint it, I don't want it to bubble again on me. Anyone know?

that's in the fiberglass. airbubbles..... a gel coat was not applied. I would highly highly recomment gel coating it.

in the trunk of a car, your not exposed to direct sunlight or frost. therefor, gel coat is not required. but whenever doing a body panel or any peice that will spend its lifetime under the sun, you need gel coat.