Solvent adhesives... why don't more people use them? - Page 23

seanz0rz · 05-24-2007, 12:48 AM

oh no theres no substitute for surface prep.

ive been playing with the coating, its PlastiDip in the rattle can. ive kinda gotten the feel for it, but i will be spraying some more complex items on friday to really get the feel for spraying complex curves and indentations. ive gotten pretty good with a rattle can over the years.

i have some laquer at home, so i will try that to make sure everything is perfect before i spray.

if i do paint this weekend, it will be saturday morning.

ShawJohn · 05-25-2007, 05:37 AM

I found the best way to make the sludge as thick as I could and then paste it on rather than trying to pour it. The more thinners is in it, the longer it will take to set.

Then carefully using a hair dryer to heat it up, be careful though cause if you get it too hot, you'll get loads of little air bubbles in the plastic that expand and make it look really bad... I know cause I did it

Warm it up gently, then leave it somewhere warm and dry like a hot water tank closit/airing cupboard over night. And DO NOT under any circumstances, try to sand the gunk until it is absolutely 100% cured and hard, otherwise it just drags when you sand it, and clogs up your paper, and again looks sh1t.

The ABS gunk method is very affective, last years, and looks extremely well once done, its just very very time consuming

Lots of patience is required!

seanz0rz · 05-25-2007, 04:29 PM

ive decided not to make the mistake of rushing this project. i wont start to sand until im 100% sure its dry.

only one spot is still slightly soft, and its sitting outside in the 85+ degree shade to help in the drying. i will have it this weekend to show off, but not finished. as much work as i have put in to this, im not risking screwing it up and having to redo it.

im still debating on if i need to build it up more or not. if i can make a thick paste like substance, then i will try, but the liquid method just softens the underlying layers too much and takes longer and longer to dry each time i add another layer, adding days to the drying time.

Nexson · 07-18-2007, 08:42 PM

I read the first post and want to add that "bondo" isnt a bonding agent and shouldn't be used as one, it is simply to give you a smooth surface and should not exceed 1/4, of course it will crack if it is put under stress being used 2 bond 2 things together, the structure should be strong enough so the bondo can do its job, which is to be apllied light and sanded very well.

Hell, your project should be sanded flat and smooth before bondo is even applied.

YetiMan · 07-19-2007, 01:17 AM

The first post was over two years ago.

I bet they know by now.

seanz0rz · 07-19-2007, 01:35 AM

since this thread has been brought back to the top, time to update my progress after 2 months.

basically none. i went to test fit the screen and found all my edges had bowed and twisted, and that the entire frame had twisted.

to remedy this, i cut a piece of glass the same size as the touch panel, taped it where the screen goes, and then filled in the gaps from the front with a very thick sludge. that was my progress today actually, ive been busy with school and vacation and whatnot.

ill try to get some pictures up next week. after this last coat has cured sufficiently (should be quick, it was real thick and its pretty hot, not so dry) i will trim the opening back to spec, and sand and paint and then i will be very much done with this portion of the project.

ephyouckay · 07-19-2007, 03:51 AM

^ Was your initial layer of sludge thick? it seems that the thicker you go the more itll warp. From what it sounds like, the best method is to go thin layers.

seanz0rz · 07-19-2007, 04:03 AM

yea, it was thick.

not much i can do about it now but just repair the damage, which i dont mind doing at all. in fact its done, just have to let it dry and then sand.

ephyouckay · 07-19-2007, 04:12 AM

ok, thanks for getting back to me. I just watned to make sure that thing layers were also makign it warp. I plan on redoing mine with the ABS sludge method tommorow. Already hacked up my current fab... gona sand it down tommorow and bond it.

seanz0rz · 07-19-2007, 01:11 PM

either thin or thick, you are still chemically disolving the plastic, and it can still warp. my advise is to attach a piece of glass to the back, where the screen normaly goes. this way it will stay true to the screen. i should have done this, instead i used cardboard.

aviator79 · 02-25-2009, 02:35 PM

I have read a number of pages here and its great info. I found the thread because im working on deforming my windshield washer tank to fit my projectors in my fogs. The back were hitting the tank. I got it deformed, but had some leaks. Patched most, but some invisable ones that still leak and im trying to figure out how to finish the project off. I think the tank is PE but I have no idea. I have not tried acetone on it yet, but I assume if it is PE acetone will not work to melt it. So first anyone know what the WW tank is made of? and second how to seal it all up so I dont have to worry?
Here are some pics:

here is the thread
http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=109722

Sorry about the thread revival, but good info in here

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