Complete bolt in Screen/CPU/HD/PS - indash - Page 24

gla502 · 07-25-2007, 12:00 PM

Joe! This is looking awesome. I can't wait to see it with the screen mounted.

Looks like you've got this down to a science, keep up the excellent fab work. Do you plan on posting pics of how you do the molex connector? I'd really like to see that.

blk02si · 07-27-2007, 10:18 PM

I will post a pic of the molex connector when I get there. Thats really one of the last things to do. It involves soldering a female molex to the LCD controller board, +, -

The following pics are of the Xenarc > Trimkit modifications. I think this is probably the most asked question about the build so I took a lot of pics and I hope this helps out, there are also some good pics of a xenarc with labels on what is what for future reference.

This is when you first open up the case. There are 4 main screws you need to remove plus the slider braket on the back. Be careful and patient when you remove the back as it comes apart easy if you remove all the screws and there are a few wires that will be dangling. First off you can unplug the speaker and discard of it. Its not needed. The next thing is to disconnect the IR remote sensor as this also does not need to be present. (optionally you can extent the wiring and place it somewhere for you remote to work). After you have the housing open you can remove things piece by piece (mostly PCB's) **MAKE SURE YOU MARK EVERYTHING!!! If you disconnect a wire mark its location and polarity so you know how it goes back together!!! I cannot stress this enough. Look at my pics and you will see the wires labeled because when this goes back together its in a different arrangement and its easy to get wires backward on the xenarc. Also please note the inverter and TS controller boards wiring harness looks very similar but it CANNOT be swapped! If they are the screen will not work at all. The first step is to basically separate the LCD screen, The touchscreen overlay, the PCB boards and the plastic housing.

blk02si · 07-27-2007, 10:21 PM

Here are some more pics of the disassembly and test fitting of the xenarc parts. You will want a table cleaned and dedicated to only the parts you are assembling. Its easy to start getting parts mixed up if you don't keep things organized. The 2nd pic down shows the actual LCD size compared to the trim. This is why the plastic housing trim is necessary. The 4th pic down is a pic of the much sought after (and best on the market) 5 wire resistive touchscreen overlay, when removed from everything else.

blk02si · 07-27-2007, 10:27 PM

This is the fun part

You need a high speed dremel tool with a cutting wheel bit attachment. Line up the front part of the stock xenarc housing with the metra (or your car's) trim kit. This is where you need to determine what needs to be shaved off in order for the front of the housing to sit flush in the recess of the metra kit. I do this by setting the 2 pieces face to face and marking the housing with a sharpie with where it need to be cut. You can see my sharpie marks in the pics. Draw straight lines and cut straight lines. All of your cuts will be behind the trim so you wont see them but you want the screen to be level with the trim when finished. These pics show the housing after various trim procedures.

blk02si · 07-27-2007, 10:31 PM

More pics of mating the front of the housing to the automotive trim. And a test fit of the TS controller and LCD with the modified front housing plate installed into the auto trim. You can barely see the silver edges now and the fit is nice and snug. When you are happy with the fit of you plastic parts you are almost ready for the epoxy.

blk02si · 07-27-2007, 10:38 PM

The modified front housing part now goes to the paint booth for a fresh coat of black plastic fusion so the silver will not show at all on the final assembly. While the paint is drying it time to start figuring out how we are going to solid mount the PCB's (printed circuit boards) within the chassis on standoffs. This is another part that need a lot of thought and one final build. You may need to extend some wires at this point to mate your horizontally mounted boards up to the vertically mounted LCD screen. Please note its not recommended to extend the secondary wiring of the inverter!! (OUTPUT SIDE) This can effect the inverter output and worse case your backlighting won't fire if the wires are longer than the inverter can handle. Next step, epoxy.

blk02si · 07-27-2007, 10:39 PM

reserved

blk02si · 07-27-2007, 10:41 PM

reserved2

gla502 · 07-30-2007, 09:13 PM

Joe it's looking really good I can't wait to see the updates.

Fallout · 07-31-2007, 08:32 PM

i like this, im probably going to use this routefor my xenarc. im trying to integrate it onto my RSX dash kit, and i want to be able to remove the screen apart from the dash kit if necessary. very clean.

electron · 08-15-2007, 02:16 PM

I just bought a 2007 RAV4, and want to install a CarPC again. I have been following this thread for a long time, and I think it might actually be of big interest to me. There is an OEM 2DIN trim plate for my car:

http://www.newtoyotaparts.com/product/index.php?id=2185

So it looks like I can do this. Question is, do you think this metal cage will work in this situation? The picture shows some of the mounting hardware, but can't tell if I can make that work with the 'cage'. I would be buying a black Xenarc TSV 7", and don't want to paint at all (since the OEM kit has the exact same finish as the other components). Thanks!

Phatsacks · 08-15-2007, 03:12 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by electron

I just bought a 2007 RAV4, and want to install a CarPC again. I have been following this thread for a long time, and I think it might actually be of big interest to me. There is an OEM 2DIN trim plate for my car:

http://www.newtoyotaparts.com/product/index.php?id=2185

So it looks like I can do this. Question is, do you think this metal cage will work in this situation? The picture shows some of the mounting hardware, but can't tell if I can make that work with the 'cage'. I would be buying a black Xenarc TSV 7", and don't want to paint at all (since the OEM kit has the exact same finish as the other components). Thanks!

Electron, you may wish to check ebay for used radio+bezel sales or trim kits.

Ebay Link for Trim Kit

A lot cheaper than $80

I just bought this: Link to Corolal Radio with Vent Bezel - I'll even try to sell the radio to help recoup some of the cost.

blk02si · 08-15-2007, 10:00 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by electron

Question is, do you think this metal cage will work in this situation? The picture shows some of the mounting hardware, but can't tell if I can make that work with the 'cage'. I would be buying a black Xenarc TSV 7", and don't want to paint at all (since the OEM kit has the exact same finish as the other components). Thanks!

It will work as long as your original radio follows the DD standard. I've actually sold a chassis to a member with a toyota truck and it worked out great. He did turn the chassis upside down for clearance though.

electron · 08-15-2007, 10:00 PM

The kit I linked is the real OEM kit, meaning texture/color match perfectly. There is a coupon out there that brings the price down to $59, which makes it more bearable. The Metra and Scosche kit don't have a great finish and stick out from what I can tell.

Great thinking on getting that radio for your Corolla, wouldn't work in my situation, but that's a great idea for sure.

blk02si · 08-15-2007, 10:07 PM

The kit is made to be bolted up to the aftermarket trim so you should be fine. I cut 5 units on my router today so they are readily available.

BTW, I just sold my HQCT module with all the cables

but im upgrading to sat. radio

FM has too many commercials for my liking.

Also I will try to add more pics to gregs build shortly, I've got a few more parts on the way and it is nearing completion. I've been stupid busy with work, life and other projects in general.

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