Complete bolt in Screen/CPU/HD/PS - indash - Page 37

Machinehead · 04-29-2008, 07:08 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mostrarskegg

I found XPE trial edition and I have a copy of vmware installed on my latop for testing. I was wondering if I could get a bit more info from Joe about his ISO he had, and some of the config contained in it to create my own.

Thanks.

Start by reading this thread, it has all the setup information for minlogon, EWF and HORM. After that you can either strip down your own copy of XP using nlite or get your hands on a pre-stripped version.

mostrarskegg · 04-29-2008, 10:30 PM

I grabbed microxp and installed that on my laptop. It's not the 12 second boot time that other people boast yet, but it gets there around 22 seconds. I'm sure I have work to do to tweak it. I'll keep reading the forums.

Machinehead · 04-30-2008, 07:24 AM

Try EWF with HORM, that'll get you down below 20 seconds for sure.

blk02si · 05-01-2008, 05:44 PM

Just wanted to chime in since it's been a month since I made a post here - but no worries, no news is good news

The pc has been running flawless and I have had no reason to mess with it other than while I'm driving for media and GPS. I cannot tell you how many times the nav has come in handy and I cannot imagine not having it now. I have begun thinking since my lease is up in 7 months what car should I get next? I was thinking about the AWD Ford Fusion since it uses the same dash kit so I could just transplant it to the new Ford

I really like the A4 / S4 but the wife is hell bent on buying American cars and with the way things are here in Mi I cannot really disagree.

Xargon321 · 05-01-2008, 07:02 PM

blk02si Stick with the stang!!! also to let you know i finished installing my comp in my car!! 07 stang here but i could not use the aluminium frame i got from joshovercash the xenarc's touch screen is to long to fit!!!! so if you have a lilliput the frame should work! pm me if you want it.

mjb_ · 05-08-2008, 05:36 PM

To any 05-08 Mustang drivers reading this: have you installed after market speakers in your car? And if so how in the QCW$&WA did you run new wire to the speakers in your doors? Modifying the stock harnesses is not an option and I'm running out of viable ideas. Hopefully sleeping on it will help clear my addled mind.

Finally starting on my install after roughly a year of procrastination and excuses. Decided my first step would be gutting the factory stereo and speakers and installing the new ones I bought. All of the removal went smoothly enough once I found the two hidden screws to remove my door trim and wrestled out the connectors to the radio and A/C controls. Now I cannot for the life of me figure out how I'm going to get the signal wire from my amp (under the passenger seat) into the doors to the speakers.

For the driver side I'm thinking about taking the door completely off and just drilling new holes and being done with it. The passenger side I haven't checked out very thoroughly, but I'm not hopeful for an easy solution over there either.

Xargon321 · 05-09-2008, 10:30 AM

look at the plugs for the speaker it should be possible to find a blade connector that will fit with out modifying the stock plugs allowing you to use a metra wiring kit to plug into the stock harness

Machinehead · 05-09-2008, 11:09 AM

Worst case you run brand new wires under the carpet, trim panels, etc. It's not that hard to do.

vtecfelon23 · 05-09-2008, 11:54 AM

i do have to say i love that car. and that screen fits rather nicely. ahhh jealousy

mjb_ · 05-09-2008, 12:20 PM

Running wire under the carpet and trim is the easy part, that's been done since Wednesday morning. It's getting the wire from there into the door panel that is giving me fits. I can't run it through the rubber boot and hose that is in place. Access to that from the interior is really subpar and I'm about 95% certain that there is a plug from the door wiring into the actual body of the car. I haven't found any diagrams that show it, but from feeling around and poking at it for the better part of two hours I'm pretty certain that's the case. Either way the odds of me getting anything through there and successfully out the other side and not floating inside the frame are very slim.

Using the existing harness wouldn't be difficult, the issue is the low gauge wire inside of it. If I splice in past the stock amps it's only about two feet of wire from there to the front speakers, but I really don't feel comfortable using that with an upgraded amp. The stock speakers are 50w peak so using dental floss wire is fine, but trying to run 60w RMS 160w peak speakers off of them is just asking for disaster.

mpr90 · 05-09-2008, 10:26 PM

Quote:

It's getting the wire from there into the door panel that is giving me fits. I can't run it through the rubber boot and hose that is in place. Access to that from the interior is really subpar and I'm about 95% certain that there is a plug from the door wiring into the actual body of the car.

Well, I have no idea if it's as you describe or even remotely similar to my car, but... I have a Miata which had a plug between the body of the car and the door. I was able to disconnect these plugs and cut off the factory wiring from the metal pins inserted into the plastic plug housing. I then soldered new wires onto the factory pins, and reinserted them in the housing. Hey presto, better quality wiring. Admittedly, it was only one pair, but the plug body did have several spare locations, so it should be possible to get some more pins to add a second pair if you're worried about keeping a crossover inside the car. Of course, your car is probably completely different...

Best of luck,
Matthew.

mjb_ · 05-09-2008, 10:42 PM

That's the exact situation i have with the exception that the inside plug is not accessible without tearing a LOT of stuff out. I don't want to hijack blk's thread too much though. I'll start my own worklog in the next day or two for further discussion.

The good news though: the driver's side is finished and I have a plan for the passenger side. The end is in sight!

Kalenth · 05-28-2008, 10:57 AM

I'm finally getting all my stuff put together. Another 4 weeks and I'll be done with this semester, and hopefully will have some time to go spend in my truck.

To the point at hand, Joe is the screen you're using that 700TSV from Xenarc? I've found a good deal on a few, so thats what I am leaning towards, but I'm trying to get something that I know I'll be able to see in the daylight.

Minoritydan · 05-30-2008, 07:35 AM

hey blk02s1 (Joe) - I just read through your thread - and your Bolt in Double DIN system is just what I am looking for. I have a 1995 Altima and a 1995 Accord LX. I was thinking about installing a CArPC in at least one (for now). Probably the accord since I just got it and it will fit my snowboard nicely with its fold down rear seats for those long 8 hr drives up to Killington from Baltimore. Anyway, I am new to the field, and am inquiring about buying a chassis from you, but have a couple of questions regarding what you include with the chassis (HD Mount, Shelf in chassis, tapping holes for standoff mounts, etc). If you are still building these let me know and we'll go from there.

Since I'm a newb, feel free to make recommendations on hardware. I can get measurements later on the accord, its my second car right now, so I can leave it taken apart for a while.

blk02si · 05-30-2008, 08:29 AM

Hello Kalenth,

Yes I am using the Xenarc 700. It came with the Hitachi screen. Daylight viewing is ok, if i'm wearing sunglasses and the screen is directly in the sun its somewhat difficult to read but I think this is true with any screen. Just have to look under the sunglasses and then you can see enough to operate. The transreflective would be really nice but its $$$. Using a standard screen in the bright sunlight is fine as long as you have a good dayskin.