89 Toyota Supra Fab Round 2

MatrixPC · 03-15-2007, 09:43 AM

Well, it's time to redo my Supra screen. I purchased a 2nd hand screen (7" Super/Avatar) from a fellow member and a Metra Ford kits (95-5812) as done by blk02si in this thread. The purpose was to use the Metra kits to build a frame for the LCD bezel to attach instead of fab the LCD bezel directly to the radio bezel. Why you ask? Well, if the LCD crap out on my down the road, I'll just take the lcd bezel out and glue a new on (if different brand) on to the metra frame. This approach will save me from doing another fab job whenever I replace a new screen. The radio bezel is a abs plastic cover with rubber. This combination of material make it really difficult to fab.
Anyway, this is the original fab job on a modded 5" PSOne screen.. I want to re-use the radio bezel although I had in my hand 2 extra bezels from junkyard. I have to remove the old paint and the PSOne screen out.
I ask the forum regarding to paint stripping. Most was suggest to use sanding method

As you can see in the picture below, the paint is pelling off.

A closer look.

MatrixPC · 03-15-2007, 10:16 AM

Thanks to my crappy fab job I did 2.5 years ago, I was able to peel the paint off without any sanding.

within 2 hrs.
Next was to prepare the frame and the LCD bezel. The frame is the Metra Late model Ford Kit 95-5812 which is the same as the kit the double DIN in kit (99-5807) that blk02si used in his install.

The bezel sure pop right into the kit openning if you trim the bottom of the bezel.

Well not exactly perfect fit. There is a gap in front of the bezel because the bezel is wider.

I have to either trim the 2 sides of the bezel or modify the side metra kit. I opt to trim the 2 side of the bezel and it pop right in. Perfect

.

MatrixPC · 03-15-2007, 10:58 AM

I have to trim the radio bezel a little wider to fit the Metra kit in the openning.

Just to double check that there is at least 1 DIN high or room for the Alpine HU.

More test before epoxy. You can see I use balsa wood to fill/jam the gap between the radio bezel and the metra kit.

Epoxy is in.

The back side.

kevinlekiller · 03-15-2007, 11:02 AM

Nice, got tired of the psone screen?

MatrixPC · 03-15-2007, 11:12 AM

Actually, I like the PSOne and still do. Really bright for my semi convertible usage. I replace it because I the fab start to get crappy and I can get the 7" for cheap. I just wait and see how is this 7" serve me. Otherwise, I will go transflective

.

Okay more to the fab.
After the epoxy was cured, I try to fit the LCD bezel again. I was shock because the metra is twisted a little and no longer a perfect rectangle. It was due to the stretch/squeze when I put those balsa wood.
Also I should of cutting up a piece of wood/board to fit into the kit to keep the it from bending out of shape.
I end up using the solution below to push it out a little and test how good the epoxy really bond the pieces.

Rub around the epoxy part with a 60 grid sand paper and ready for the filling. I already has some SEM bumper repair left over from the Matrix job and use that. I should of try the 3M that TurboCad6 used. So far SEM is good enough base on the matrix job because the bezels are just abs plastic. The supra material is a totally different one. Rubber

MatrixPC · 03-17-2007, 01:27 AM

This is the first couple layers of SEM bumper repair.
I put a thin layer at a time. Thin layer give it an option to cure faster then 1 thick layer.

This one is after first 150 grid sand. Before that was about 3 passes of 60 grid sand paper. I just applied more filler to build it up after each sand.

So far looking good

2k1Toaster · 03-17-2007, 01:39 AM

looks good so far!

MatrixPC · 03-19-2007, 12:54 PM

Here are a few more pics.
Prime, wetsand, glaze putty, prime, wetsand .... about 3 times.

I'm getting tired of sanding and stared to do the whole thing. I thought cuz the original piece isn't perfect, why should I spend too much time make this this portion perfect

The last 2 pics are one with first coat of paint. I use flexible vinyl paint. It isn't sandable paint. So far, it isn't dry evenly, and was taken 5 minutes after spraying.

david69leonard · 03-19-2007, 01:12 PM

Looks way better than what you had before, Awesome job!!!

J187 · 03-19-2007, 03:24 PM

Exteme makeover Matix PC style. Looks infintely better. Nice. Can't wait to see it fully done.

MatrixPC · 03-20-2007, 01:34 AM

I came home after work in hope to see a nice looking layer of paint, but I run into something unexpected. I was

to see that the paint doesn't look normal. There are part that looking really nice while other part is really dull. I try to rub my finger on the dull part and found this.

Rub a little more and I was able to peel the vinyl paint off like rubbing on your dead skin

The paint has soften the primer and tacky like glue.

Anyone run into this type of problem? Paint/primer incompartible?

J187 · 03-20-2007, 07:41 AM

Matrix, first I have to ask out of curiousity, it seems that every time you type the word paint, you leave off the T? I'm just curious why.

About your problem....there are most definitley plenty of issues regarding paints sticking to primers/other paints/surfaces. Laquer over enamel, enamel over laquer, some paints w/ flex agents can soften primer making like a gel... Some primers can never harden over fiberglass(heat reaction).

Exactly what paint and primer are you using, brand and type?

MatrixPC · 03-20-2007, 08:56 AM

I didn't realize I missed that many "T".

Well, it could be that I am tired after working on it and late into the night + trying to type fast

The primer I used is Plasti-Kote Sandable Primer. This is the leftover on my Matrix Job. On the can it said "Fast Dry Lacquer Primer For Lacquer, Enamel or Acrylic Topcoats"

Paint was make by RustOleum Vinyl paint. Leftover from my previous Supra job. I used RustOleum primer previously, but the result still not that perfect.

Anyway, I am running low/out of that Vinyl paint already, so I am going to buy something else by Plasti-Kote. Any of these you guys recommended (will be in flat black)? I am thinking of bumper or vinyl paint as those are more flexible than the other 2.

J187 · 03-20-2007, 10:07 AM

Trim black or wrinkle paint. I recently used the wrinkle stuff and LOVED it. perfect match to a dashboard that I recently molded an xm receiver to.

You should be ok painting on a laqcuer primer. But I'm suspect of the flex agent used. It says vinyl resins are used...may not react well with laqcuer primer or non etching primer in general. I'd go with a different paint. The ones above sound good. Unless you expect the piece to flex quit a bit, I wouldn't worry about having flex agents. Just spray a few coats and hit it with a clear coat if you don't mind the finish - its much stronger. Look for one of those little plastic gun trigger attachments for spray cans, they make control of the can much easier when painting and they are like $1.99 in the spray paint aisle.

These

MatrixPC · 03-20-2007, 11:00 AM

After a little searching/reading, I think the "flexible agen" is the problem. I'll go with the wrinkle paint to see how it look. Probably, it will be better than trim black paint due to the imperfection looking on the original piece.
As of how flexible is the piece, well, it was make of plastic cover in THICK rubber to give it a soft touch/feel. When I try to sand off the old paint, I got a feeling of filing/repairing a bicycle tube instead of working on my radio bezel.

Oh yeah I see one of those gun in most place where there are spray paint.