FAQ: Getting Rid of that Whine or Buzzing Noise in Your Speakers - Page 3

lor109 · 03-30-2008, 08:35 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

I honestly dont know. I am in the process of completing the install, and i sure hope not, because I have 3 EBY701s in my install. None of the screens will be powered by the PC, but rather a relay connected directly to the 12v+ and ground lines, with the ACC 12v+ being the activation switch. I decided on this because i did not want to bogg down my system in an way. Also i did it this way since all screens have there own regulators and fuses. Oh gosh you have me so worried now. Also as a note, my PC is no were near the screens.

Mine is Connected directly to the ACC 12v line as well, not the pc. I won't be able to take it apart anytime soon to test for problems, but I'll let you know if I find anything.

lbridges · 03-30-2008, 11:04 AM

I read through this thread and thought I'd offer one more source of potential noise. That source would be a partially failing alternator. Not sure how many people know that a diode on a modern alternator can fail and no light on the dash will show this - you are still partially charging. Only way to detect it* is through looking at the output on an O-scope or similar. What you would see is a partially rectified output with a much less 'smooth' line to the DC being sent to the battery and any other load devices. Among other ramification, this can create issues through fluctuating voltage for things like a display plugged into the cigarette lighter.

* Note: Well I guess if you were previously barely able to run something with a healthy alternator, and a diode failed you might notice, but in that scenario you're already probably replacing alternators on a regular basis due to load induced issues.

lor109 · 03-30-2008, 12:15 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by lbridges

I read through this thread and thought I'd offer one more source of potential noise. That source would be a partially failing alternator. Not sure how many people know that a diode on a modern alternator can fail and no light on the dash will show this - you are still partially charging. Only way to detect it* is through looking at the output on an O-scope or similar. What you would see is a partially rectified output with a much less 'smooth' line to the DC being sent to the battery and any other load devices. Among other ramification, this can create issues through fluctuating voltage for things like a display plugged into the cigarette lighter.

* Note: Well I guess if you were previously barely able to run something with a healthy alternator, and a diode failed you might notice, but in that scenario you're already probably replacing alternators on a regular basis due to load induced issues.

This got me thinking. I did replace the Battery recently....Could the new battery cause these issues?

HiJackZX1 · 03-30-2008, 06:17 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by lor109

Mine is Connected directly to the ACC 12v line as well, not the pc. I won't be able to take it apart anytime soon to test for problems, but I'll let you know if I find anything.

Mine isnt connected directly to the ACC 12V+, thats badddddddddddd because it isnt made to power a device, you may have a short in the future. My devices are powered by the constant 12v+ the relay sits in between the device and the constant line. The ACC simply completes the connection on the relay.