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01-06-2006, 07:28 PM
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#31
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 8
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Thanx Bugbyte, Yes i did read that on your power supply faq. Thank you for clarifying this issue.
Regards 
Guruj |
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01-09-2006, 02:00 PM
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#32
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Athens
Vehicle: 1998/Audi/A6
Posts: 15
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Why only the 80W-120W Opus PSU have remote output to trigger the amplifier and not the 90W-150W models?
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01-24-2006, 03:37 PM
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#33
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: New Jersey
Vehicle: BMW 2004 x3 3.0i
Posts: 84
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if i am correct the opus 150 has a fuse in it already why would you need another 1 for the first setup option?
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01-25-2006, 12:26 AM
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#34
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I see dead kittens
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: New York
Vehicle: 1998 Audi A4
Posts: 3,782
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The fuse in the first option is to protect the wire not the Opus. The wire is what will cause a fire in your car.
__________________
Installed
Asus A7N8X-VM - AMD Mobile Athlon 2400
512 Ram - 60GB HD - Opus 150w
Lilliput 7" - Rikaline 6010
[00000000000001100010-] 98% Completed
Check Out My Install!!!
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01-26-2006, 05:29 PM
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#35
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4
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I have a sub amp wired directly behind my backseat. I was planning on following option #2 by disconnecting the line currently running to the amp and hooking it up to a power distro block, but was wondering if there would be any issues with the fuse(s) that I am currently using. Right now, I believe it is a either a 60A or 100A fuse on a 2/4 guage wire. Can I continue using the same fuse, or should i simply switch out the fuse for a higher rated one?
Also, I'm a little worried about the vibration from the sub, as it would be very close to the opus and the pc itself. Any suggestions on dampeners? Rubber grommets?
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02-12-2006, 11:19 AM
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#36
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 58
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Sorry for the n00b question
whats that green/white 2 pin wire in the OPUS150 which s right next to the motheroard power connector. Looks like the start/shutdown pins but wanna be totally sure.
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02-12-2006, 03:08 PM
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#37
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Fresno, CA
Vehicle: 2001 Toyota 4 Runner
Posts: 64
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Quote: Originally Posted by romanman69
Sorry for the n00b question
whats that green/white 2 pin wire in the OPUS150 which s right next to the motheroard power connector. Looks like the start/shutdown pins but wanna be totally sure.
You got it...that's what it is. |
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02-16-2006, 12:01 AM
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#38
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 26
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couldnt you just take the constant power from your oem cd deck connection to run the opus? theres all the wires you need right off that harness; constant, ignition/acc, ground, and speakers.
Is the opus power supply that similiar to an amp that it needs a direct connection to the battery? (I just ordered an Opus 120 , and was hoping it would work with no problems running off the oem cd harness)
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02-16-2006, 09:40 AM
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#39
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 520
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It's like an amp and needs to direct connection to the battery
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02-16-2006, 09:46 AM
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#40
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 520
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Quote: Originally Posted by Quattro
The fuse in the first option is to protect the wire not the Opus. The wire is what will cause a fire in your car.
Here's a question for you. If I had 12ga wire running directly to the opus, or in my cas an M1-ATX, is there any need for the fuse. 12ga wire can hold up beyond the the 10amp fuse on the M1. I know most people need another fuse as they go from 10/12ga down to the stock 18ga lead that comes with the power supply. Would it still be wise to run something like a 15 amp fuse anyway or should you match the fuse on the board, i.e. 10 amps? |
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02-16-2006, 07:45 PM
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#41
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Admin. Don't bug or I'll byte.
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Corning, NY
Vehicle: 2001 VW Beetle
Posts: 4,470
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See post 34. Consider what happens if your 12 gauge wire short out near the Opus. You will have a direct short to ground and no fuse. The wire will begin to heat until something gives. That can start a fire.
The fuse is designed to blow if the wire shorts, not the Opus.
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02-17-2006, 04:47 AM
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#42
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 520
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Quote: Originally Posted by Bugbyte
See post 34. Consider what happens if your 12 gauge wire short out near the Opus. You will have a direct short to ground and no fuse. The wire will begin to heat until something gives. That can start a fire.
The fuse is designed to blow if the wire shorts, not the Opus.
Ahh you are correct I never considered the possiblity of a short like that. thank you for the thought.  |
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03-26-2006, 02:43 PM
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#43
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 223
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For the Opus 120, what type of fuse should I use on the line coming off the battery? Should it be 15A, or should it be lower or higher?
Also, for the 12V line itself, running from the battery to the 12V yellow line on the Opus, should that wire be around 10G or 12G? The yellow wire on the Opus harness is 16G, so is it safe to solder a 10G or 12G wire onto a 16G wire?
Additionally, what would the blue/white REMOTE wire on the Opus harness be used for? Is that strictly for something like a stereo amp, or could it be used in some way with my in-dash touchscreen? My in-dash touchscreen also has a REMOTE wire, and I'm not sure if I should just seal both of those wires off, or if there's some other reason I would want to use them...
'01
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03-26-2006, 04:53 PM
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#44
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 218
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whats the best way to connect the wires directly to the battery? or do you connect to a wire comming off of the battery?
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03-29-2006, 07:28 PM
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#45
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 223
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Quote: Originally Posted by Eubey
whats the best way to connect the wires directly to the battery? or do you connect to a wire comming off of the battery?
For my system, I got a pack of gold plated copper terminals. They have a gold loop that gets connected to the bolt that you tighten on the battery terminal.
This is what they look like, though I didn't get mine from this site: http://www.doityourself.com/store/0078535.htm
'01 |
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