alejoal07

Well, I bought a fusion brain (no extras)... the fact is that as soon as i plugged it in to my car (which runs on 12 Volts) it started smoking so i inmediately unplugged it... it got a lot of damage as you will see in the pictures below...


the cooper on the pcb under the jack just melted and came off it...


Capacitor C12 dissapeared... Probably blew off...


Capacitors C8 and C10 turned black...


and probably more damage inside the IC's

I mean how can this happen if it was plugged in for only a second at the most... I guess it was deffective...


Has this hapened to anyone else? what went wrong? i mean as far as i know the polarity was right... center in the jack is positive right? anyways i'm really mad about paying 50$ for something that just fried as soon as i tried it...

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greenman100

Wow, I've never seen anything like that.

We make it a point to test them before shipment, so I'm not sure how this happened. We're happy to send you a new one, just email us at fusioncontrolcentre AT gmail dot .com, if you purchased it from us.

And yes, center pin is positive.

Civic Modz

That wire you sizzled is the main 12v supply to the board. So something must of shorted the +12v to GND somehow. If you rested the FB on a metal surface, or on a surface that had a wire or something like that this would of happened. If you shorted the output terminals this might also happen and the two driver chips will be dead also. About the C10 and C8 caps, there are naturally blacker than the C14 and C13 since they are different types/values.

First thing (if you can) is to get a multimeter and measure the resistance between the + and - on the FB with nothing connected to it. if you get a low resistance reading, say under 100ohm, then there is a short somewhere,

What to do now?
1. Get yourself a 200mA fuse and put it inline with the power jack (+12v) (don't use it on your car battery at this point)
2. Reconnect the burnt track
3. Rest the brain on a NON-METALLIC surface with nothing connected to the outputs.
4. Turn it on again. If the track is going to burn, the fuse will blow first.
5. If the blue light turns on, all is good.

If your two driver chips get warm, then there gone.

If you use FBdemo to check the outputs and inputs and they all seem ok, you cause was that the brain rested on something metal or it was shorted somehow. (it only takes a split second for the track to melt when there is a short)

If the fuse blows again, then there must be a short on the board, or you have damaged the chips.

If you connected the power the wrong way in the first place, the most of the parts on the board will be dead.

** If you dont have a fuse, you can connect a really thin strand of wire (i mean really thin) across the burnt track (MAKE SURE THIS WIRE DOES NOT TOUCH ANY PADS ON THE BOARD)

If anything is going to blow it will be the thin wire as it is the weakest point.

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alejoal07

I dont think i shorted anything since i had nothing connected to the outputs and the FB was laying on the passenger's seat...

alejoal07

Ok i got the new fusion brain, thank you tho!!! but i noticed a few diferences from the one that failed...

The new one came with this jumper that the old one didn't have... I was wondering what does the jumper do? and what are the possible jumper settings...


The color of the led's is also different, the new ones are clearer why is that? are they different versions or something?

2k1Toaster

That jumper is what makes the LEDs on the board light. Without the jumper no LEDs will light except for the power.

The others are not to be used by the end user.

There is no difference in the boards, but we make them in smallish batches. So the one you had before was from batch "X" and this one is from batch "Y". Same layout, same parts, just sometimes components differ over time in their own reels.

It will work the same.

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