Is it possible....? If so, how?

TreColl · 12-19-2008, 12:24 PM

Hey all, Started building a CarPC to go into my (UK) Ford Fiesta (1997 model - MK4)

Having to fabricate a way to get my 7" lilliput to fit and thought it would be easier/a good idea to use the PC and FB to control my heaters (no A/C).

I will list my thoughts so far at the bottom

Having taken a look at the switches this is how I have found the heaters are controlled...

The fan speed is controlled by a 4 position switch (0-4) so that, in theory is easy to replicate...
The heater control is a variable resistor. But I havent had a look as to how many wires come from it.
The 'blowing position' (where the fans blow comes out, [demistor, into face, onto feet]) is analogue, cable controlled, a dial is rotated that in turn rotates another cable that closes and opens the vents...

If it makes any difference I am using RoadRunner as my front end...

I Presume the fan speed could just be switched by having three powered outputs from the FB. - I need to check, but I believe only one is active at a time, so would need to make a way for the brain to send out only one (I want to try and replicate the original dial on the screen - or maybe a +/- button if thats easier..

The heater control, again I presume i would just need to replicate the variable resistor, can the FB do this with one output (is that what the analogue outputs are for? or are there only analogue inputs [I cant remember])

I have no idea for the blower position.

Any help would be greatly appreiciated!!

greenman100 · 12-19-2008, 01:51 PM

Fan control is easy.

Heater control - you probably want to use a digital pot and up/down control via 2 outputs on the FB.

blower position, you need a servo or linear actuator, and we can't control servos yet.

TreColl · 12-19-2008, 02:01 PM

So its all possible then??

Can linear actuators work ok? if not, I suppose I could leave that manual, and just re-route it to the glove box lol ... I usually leave it on demist in the winter and face in the summer anyways lol

greenman100 · 12-19-2008, 02:39 PM

linear actuators work, but you'd need to install some sort of feedback device, like switches or a linear pot to tell the software where the actuator is.

Civic Modz · 12-19-2008, 09:56 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by TreColl

Hey all, Started building a CarPC to go into my (UK) Ford Fiesta (1997 model - MK4)

Having to fabricate a way to get my 7" lilliput to fit and thought it would be easier/a good idea to use the PC and FB to control my heaters (no A/C).

I will list my thoughts so far at the bottom

Having taken a look at the switches this is how I have found the heaters are controlled...

The fan speed is controlled by a 4 position switch (0-4) so that, in theory is easy to replicate...
The heater control is a variable resistor. But I havent had a look as to how many wires come from it.
The 'blowing position' (where the fans blow comes out, [demistor, into face, onto feet]) is analogue, cable controlled, a dial is rotated that in turn rotates another cable that closes and opens the vents...

If it makes any difference I am using RoadRunner as my front end...

I Presume the fan speed could just be switched by having three powered outputs from the FB. - I need to check, but I believe only one is active at a time, so would need to make a way for the brain to send out only one (I want to try and replicate the original dial on the screen - or maybe a +/- button if thats easier..

The heater control, again I presume i would just need to replicate the variable resistor, can the FB do this with one output (is that what the analogue outputs are for? or are there only analogue inputs [I cant remember])

I have no idea for the blower position.

Any help would be greatly appreiciated!!

For controlling the Blower you have 2 options:

Use 4 outputs to control the 4 blower speeds
Use a single PWM output to control blower (FET Driver required) This way you can have much more blower speed levels

With the analog cable, the best electronic solution is to use a heavy duty servo. Though you will have to make up a special adapter bracket so you can bolt it on. Start off with a flat sheet of metal, mount the servo on it and find a spot somewhere on the chassis near where the cable ends so you can mount it ( I actually found a spare threaded hole, so no drilling was required!)

To give you an idea, here is a pic. of one that I have made up for a Honda Civic.
The loop at the end of the wire will actually connect to the post that you original cable is fixed to.

TreColl · 12-20-2008, 06:52 AM

Sorry, maybe I should explain, the cable itself doesnt actually move, It roatates!?

Is that still possible??

Civic Modz · 12-20-2008, 08:53 AM

The fittings on the servo make it very flexible and can adapt to almost any movement. Though to confirm you will need to look under where you cable ends and study how the mechanism works.

A simple pic with the direction of movement of the mechanism should be enough to help you further.

GadgetBandit · 12-20-2008, 03:28 PM

"To give you an idea, here is a pic. of one that I have made up for a Honda Civic."

Civic Modz,

Could you show me a simple FusionConfiguration file to control the servo in your picture? Does it connect directly to FB or eyeR MOD? . . . and is that servo, the type made for RC models?

GadgetBandit

Civic Modz · 12-20-2008, 08:55 PM

The servo is a RC-type MG-995 (16kg) that connects directly to the eyeR (More detail is in the eyeR manual). There is a dedicated on board power supply (around 7v) just for the servo. I havent yet made up modules/config files for MDX, but if you click here there is a link to a modified FBDemo VB application with source that shows you how to control all the eyeR functions via the FB.

Hope this helps.

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