Start the car using the fusion brain

PaulF · 02-17-2009, 05:26 PM

Alright so my setup is going to involve an ipod touch waking my computer on lan and once awoken, I get full computer control. I'll get this part done on my own, but now I want to know how I can start my engine.

What I really need to know is...

How do I get past my alarm system?
What wires do I need to control with relays to get the car to start?
How do I check if the car is already on and prevent it from trying to start it again?
How do I check that the car has successfully started and cut power to the starter?

Note that I am very competent with electric/relays so you don't need to "hold my hand" when explaining this to me.

malcom2073 · 02-17-2009, 05:48 PM

How to get past your alarm system depends on what kind of alarm system your car has. Many remote start manufacturers sell addons for their modules to disable vehicle specific alarms, so perhaps that may be an option to look into.

To get the car to start you need: ACC wire to be hot, 1 or 2 ign wires to be hot (depends on car, mine has 2), and pulse the start wire to start the car.

You can get a frequency to voltage converter chip, have the FB read it to see if your car is started (reading a RPM value), and if so, stop cranking, same to see if the car is running.

Personally, I'd buy a cheap remote start that includes an AUX input, and use the fusion brain to trigger that aux input. If your computer were to say... freeze in the middle of starting, it would not shut off the starter (potentially causing damage).

Laminar · 02-17-2009, 05:51 PM

edit: Looks like I got beat to the punch

1. Depends on your car. Check some Volvo forums to see if there are any security measures that have to be disabled before installing a remote start system on your car - you'll face similar hurdles.

2. I believe it'd the the three positions of your key (assuming there are three) - Accessory, On, and Start

3. and 4. Your best bet might be to tap into the tachometer input, and convert whatever form the signal is into a voltage that the FB can read. When starting, the engine probably cranks at 300-400rpm or thereabouts, so you could have the FB check for a tach input, and if none is found (the car's not running), flip the relays controlling the ACC and ON key positions on and then hold the relay controlling the starter on until a voltage equivalent to 600rpm is seen. At that point, you could assume the car is running.

greenman100 · 02-17-2009, 06:24 PM

We don't condone the usage of our product in this manner.

(just some legalese to keep the shirts on our back)

PaulF · 02-17-2009, 06:40 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by greenman100

We don't condone the usage of our product in this manner.

(just some legalese to keep the shirts on our back)

Haha, don't worry about it. I'm not one of those ***holes who sues someone for something that was definitely their own fault.

PaulF · 02-17-2009, 07:11 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Laminar

edit: Looks like I got beat to the punch

1. Depends on your car. Check some Volvo forums to see if there are any security measures that have to be disabled before installing a remote start system on your car - you'll face similar hurdles.

2. I believe it'd the the three positions of your key (assuming there are three) - Accessory, On, and Start

3. and 4. Your best bet might be to tap into the tachometer input, and convert whatever form the signal is into a voltage that the FB can read. When starting, the engine probably cranks at 300-400rpm or thereabouts, so you could have the FB check for a tach input, and if none is found (the car's not running), flip the relays controlling the ACC and ON key positions on and then hold the relay controlling the starter on until a voltage equivalent to 600rpm is seen. At that point, you could assume the car is running.

Now that you mention this, couldn't I check if there was any voltage at all going to the tachometer?

Laminar · 02-17-2009, 11:50 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by PaulF

Now that you mention this, couldn't I check if there was any voltage at all going to the tachometer?

I'm not 100% sure. I noticed that my tach doesn't show anything until the car is running, so in my case, I could probably assume that 0V = not running, >0V = running.

Laminar · 02-17-2009, 11:51 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by PaulF

Haha, don't worry about it. I'm not one of those ***holes who sues someone for something that was definitely their own fault.

You might not be, but it's possible that your insurance company might look anywhere they can for payback if a claim is made there.

greenman100 · 02-18-2009, 12:40 AM

you may want to consider purchasing a commercially available remote start system, and hacking the button in the remote to be fired by an FB relay

2k1Toaster · 02-18-2009, 02:01 AM

As Tim and malcom have suggested, I think the starting should be done external to the brain. As pointed out, if the PC freezes, studders, or whatever the starter could be locked on, or who knows what else.

I got a $50 remote start system off of ebay almost 3 years ago now that has an AUX input. Just pulse it with +12v and voila the car starts. It monitors the RPMs and if the car doesnt turn over correctly for whatever reason, it disengages after the 3rd try.

So I say get the cheap remote start with AUX input, and a Fusion Brain. Then you can monitor the starting on the PC and monitor RPMs, and use the RPMs as a signal to send the start pulse. wait a bit and check. If no dice, then the starter failed for whatever reason and it would be a good idea to not try to start again until you see what's up. Otherwise your RPM could be displayed.

And all of this can be controlled via internet if you are planning WOL anyways through the remote control interface of MDX.

User Name		Remember Me?
Password