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View Poll Results: Enclosure or Case for the Fusion Brain
We don't need no stinking cases 7 31.82%
I would like a plastic case designed specifically for the Fusion Brain 12 54.55%
Option 2 is good and all, but too expensive for my tastes 2 9.09%
I would like a metal case designed specifically for the Fusion Brain 3 13.64%
Option 4 is good and all, but too expensive for my tastes 3 13.64%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 22. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 07-07-2009, 02:03 PM   #1
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Question Enclosure for Fusion Brain. Would you want one?

Hello everyone,

We are trying to get a feeler for if you guys (and gals) would like to have an enclosure or case made available for the Fusion Brain Version 4. It would most likely be plastic, but could be metal I guess.

These sorts of cases arent cheap though, so we cant go run off a bagillion and hope you want them, so we need some feedback.

Would $12 to $15 be worth it for a plastic case custom designed for the Fusion Brain? It would have standoffs built in inside so that it would mount no fuss needed. There would be holes for the DC jack and USB jack. There would also be holes (or maybe punchouts) for the digital outputs and analogue inputs. So a custom solution.

We can also do metal but the pricing for that is through the roof. So far we received quotes of close to $70 a piece, so I would like to avoid that...

Is this something you would buy?

Last edited by 2k1Toaster; 07-07-2009 at 02:06 PM.
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Old 07-07-2009, 02:47 PM   #2
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Although I would like to have one, I don't think I'd buy it. The custom nature of the FB doesn't lend itself to an all-in-one solution. How many CarPC or other automation projects DON'T require taking a dremel to an enclosure?

You can't use the fusion brain completely by itself, so it's kinda dumb to have it's own case. I have one sitting on my desk (styrofoam coffee cup as an insulator...) & another in a $3 plastic toolbox with screwed/glued motherboard standoffs. Either way, i have to have at least one other "box" nearby to contain the power & computer. I just don't see the benefit vs the cost (even at ~$10)
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Old 07-07-2009, 02:58 PM   #3
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would you be designing cases for all versions? I actually started coming up with a design for a V3 case
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Old 07-07-2009, 03:03 PM   #4
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Quote: Originally Posted by Sonicxtacy02 View Post
would you be designing cases for all versions? I actually started coming up with a design for a V3 case

Not unless we can find a cheap manufacturer. It is nearly $500 to setup a new case design, then ontop of that there is the price per unit. Since we dont sell the V3 anymore and most people have already done something with it, I dont see the overall benefit. Might be able to make it V3 & V4 compatible, but that would double the size of the case and make it look sort of wonky...
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Old 07-07-2009, 03:05 PM   #5
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understood.. i'll just go ahead with my concept then. I've got a perfect sized plastic case i just have to find someone to handle the rather precise cutting.
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Old 07-07-2009, 04:13 PM   #6
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Quote: Originally Posted by Sonicxtacy02 View Post
understood.. i'll just go ahead with my concept then. I've got a perfect sized plastic case i just have to find someone to handle the rather precise cutting.

Can't beat a razor blade, heated if need be. Just use outer connectors with a lip that will hide the cuts. I use hot glue to hold the connectors in. Outside, it looks professional, inside, well "half-assed" is my description but, half-assing makes the world go 'round.
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Old 07-07-2009, 04:20 PM   #7
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Better than the soldering iron I normally use to cut plastic (I use it only to cut plastic since I cant find any new tips that work in it)
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Old 07-07-2009, 04:36 PM   #8
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I would be against it personally, I will be picking one up soon and although a case is a good idea, for this hobby most people are well equipped to make something for it to fit just what they are doing for much cheaper.
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Old 07-07-2009, 06:40 PM   #9
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I wouldn't mind paying $12-15 for a plastic case. I know some people here are well equipped to make one, but I'm not one of them. I'm currently using a small tupperware box that I just drilled some holes in. Pretty ghetto.
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Old 07-07-2009, 07:09 PM   #10
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i wouldn't buy one now (living in the uk, considering the extra shipping)

if i had the choice when buying the original i would've thrown one in the mix.

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Old 07-07-2009, 10:21 PM   #11
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A case that holds just the FB wouldn't be that useful for me since I need relays and sensors in some kind of an enclosure as well. So far, I've been using plastic containers designed to hold food. They seal up well enough to prevent dust and water from getting in.

Given the option, plastic is probably better than metal simply so it can't short anything out.
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:25 PM   #12
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Quote: Originally Posted by mx270a View Post
A case that holds just the FB wouldn't be that useful for me since I need relays and sensors in some kind of an enclosure as well. So far, I've been using plastic containers designed to hold food. They seal up well enough to prevent dust and water from getting in.

Given the option, plastic is probably better than metal simply so it can't short anything out.

I was thinking of designing a case capable of carrying 16 relays and the FB, but for sensors, usually they need to be external.
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:25 PM   #13
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maybe if the case could also hold a relay for each output...
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Old 07-08-2009, 01:07 AM   #14
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Quote: Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
I was thinking of designing a case capable of carrying 16 relays and the FB, but for sensors, usually they need to be external.

Housing for 16 relays, that sounds interesting. Wire management is going to become an issue to deal with getting high amperage connections to all those relays. I use some inertial sensors (gyros and accelerometers), which can stay right by the board. I agree that most people will be using sensors that actually connect to other stuff.
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Old 07-08-2009, 08:20 AM   #15
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Quote: Originally Posted by mx270a View Post
Housing for 16 relays, that sounds interesting. Wire management is going to become an issue to deal with getting high amperage connections to all those relays. I use some inertial sensors (gyros and accelerometers), which can stay right by the board. I agree that most people will be using sensors that actually connect to other stuff.

For the stock 30 amp relays, you only need 14 awg wires to connect to them. You can just stick the spade connectors on the bottom of the relays through holes in the case and then attach wires to them.
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