*NEW* USB Input/Output Board -- Fusion Brain - Page 58

greenman100 · 07-03-2007, 08:16 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by extropy

Port to pin layouts based on the board I have. First number is the Port, second is the pin it activates. Both are 0-11 numbered.

0-4
1-5
2-6
3-3
4-1
5-2
6-7
7-0
8-8
9-9
10-10
11-11

Volume seems to work so far. Haven't messed with temp or ultrasonic sensor yet.

This agrees with what I am finding.

When we redesigned between the beta and final boards, we elected to make the output chips socketed, so that if you shorted an output, you could just replace the output chip, at 50 cents. We thought people would like this better.

However, we managed to mix up the pinouts... and since we shipped to you guys as soon as we got the boards from China, we never caught it.

Again, we are sorry for the confusion, but with the table above, you can use all the outputs. We will put the pin table in the hardware documentation, and the next revision of boards will not have this problem. The next revision should be available by October.

speedy_parker · 07-03-2007, 09:45 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Volsfan

I ordered it for several reasons.
1: to help support this hobby and you guys
2: the Cool Factor
And lastly, so that I can learn more about computers and programming.

So again, thanks a bunch.

I second this emotion... And I got mine yesterday too. I won't get a chance to play with it for a few weeks but I'm very pleased with the design (the pinout issues don't bother me at all)

and as a funny side note - my wife was like 'WTF? More toys?'

and I was like

'Dudedette, wait to you see all the cool stuff this thing will do!!' So I named some of the stuff I could do with it and she warmed to the idea...

I think the idea of automatic temperature control was the key...

Hmmmpff - women...

extropy · 07-03-2007, 11:42 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by greenman100

This agrees with what I am finding.

When we redesigned between the beta and final boards, we elected to make the output chips socketed, so that if you shorted an output, you could just replace the output chip, at 50 cents. We thought people would like this better.

However, we managed to mix up the pinouts... and since we shipped to you guys as soon as we got the boards from China, we never caught it.

Again, we are sorry for the confusion, but with the table above, you can use all the outputs. We will put the pin table in the hardware documentation, and the next revision of boards will not have this problem. The next revision should be available by October.

When the new boards are produced without the error, would you be willing to exchange them? The current ones work well enough to get by for now, but the extra translation step just adds unnessary complication.

Siezmik · 07-03-2007, 01:29 PM

Mine showed up yesterday, waiting patiently for me on my front porch. Now, if I only had the time to play with it . . . maybe later this week. Thanks guys!

greenman100 · 07-03-2007, 01:45 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by extropy

When the new boards are produced without the error, would you be willing to exchange them? The current ones work well enough to get by for now, but the extra translation step just adds unnessary complication.

Nick and I are working out solutions. There's a possibility of a retrofit kit that goes in the output driver slots.

Blue ZX3 · 07-03-2007, 03:21 PM

One thing that I observed while playing with my board is that when I use the default skin thats included in the software dl, that not only does the volume graph change, so does the other three but on a smaller scale...I have looked at the skin and don't see any reason why input on one port should affect any of the other readings...??

And BTW which is port 0 for the AI, is it as marked on the board?? If so it would make it much easier to have them in order starting at one end.

On the idea of a retro fix addon, I was thinking of actually making a daughter board that this would plug into so that I could change the pin headers into a mix of either headers or wire terminals, to make highly universal... I don't think that will be to difficult.

Another observation that I noticed was that just playing around with it only driving the output LED's that the v-reg got pretty hot as seeing that its shouldn't be comsumming alot of power between the uP and leds, little alone driving say 3 or more relays. I might, just to be on the safe side, remove it and add a small heatsink that I know I have laying around...maybe a change for v2.

greenman100 · 07-03-2007, 03:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Blue ZX3

One thing that I observed while playing with my board is that when I use the default skin thats included in the software dl, that not only does the volume graph change, so does the other three...

And BTW which is port 0 for the AI, is it as marked on the board??

All three will change. Analog Inputs that are not connected to anything will pick up signal from analog inputs that are connected to things.

Port 0 is towards the digital outputs.

Nick and I are leaning towards a board that will fit over the current board, and upgrade the analog inputs as well as the LED/pin matching of the outputs. Such a board would be offered at minimal cost, basically the cost of shipping.

We're doing our best here guys - we won't have the perfection of a big company, but we're a lot cheaper and have a lot better customer support. Just give us a chance to work out the bugs.

Blue ZX3 · 07-03-2007, 04:28 PM

Not complaining....just bringing observations to the table, besides it still doesn't even touch the competion, that and the GREAT customer service.

Keep up the awesome everything guys!!

greenman100 · 07-03-2007, 04:38 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Blue ZX3

Not complaining....just bringing observations to the table, besides it still doesn't even touch the competion, that and the GREAT customer service.

Keep up the awesome everything guys!!

Bring them all up, every single issue, please.

We don't mind the criticism, and we want to keep this community developed. Part of that means that updates and replacement parts are nearly free.

If you blow up a PIC, $10 for a new one.
If you blow up an output driver, $0.75 for a new one.

2k1Toaster · 07-03-2007, 05:12 PM

Also for the oher analogue inputs moving as well, if you connect a jumper between an inactive input, and ground (leave the +5v unconnected) this should solve this.

As for the regulator, the more voltage it sees, the hotter it gets. It will shut itself off though if it gets too hot (meaning too much voltage). It is normal for it to get hot. It is safe for it to be powered from anything between 7v and 15v. At 7v, it is cooler than at 15v, but it works the same. Excess goes to heat.

extropy · 07-03-2007, 06:32 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by greenman100

We're doing our best here guys - we won't have the perfection of a big company, but we're a lot cheaper and have a lot better customer support. Just give us a chance to work out the bugs.

It's all the effort, dedication, and concern that you've put into this already that makes me so tolerant of issues. You both seem to understand the importance of a quality working product, but you're also open and honest about your current limitations as a company. For me, at least, that makes all the difference. Keep doing the best you can with what you have, and you keep getting my support. More power to you both!

Arrow · 07-03-2007, 10:01 PM

As soon as my paycheck clears, I'm ordering one! I've got way too many ideas for this.

Blue ZX3 · 07-03-2007, 10:55 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster

Also for the oher analogue inputs moving as well, if you connect a jumper between an inactive input, and ground (leave the +5v unconnected) this should solve this.

After I posted that I had a hunch as to that what is could have been, as I am an electronics person myself. Now I finally have a use for all those jumpers that I have laying around from comps/HD's, ect....

Quote: Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster

As for the regulator, the more voltage it sees, the hotter it gets. It will shut itself off though if it gets too hot (meaning too much voltage). It is normal for it to get hot. It is safe for it to be powered from anything between 7v and 15v. At 7v, it is cooler than at 15v, but it works the same. Excess goes to heat.

I understand this as well, and at the time that I was testing it out, I was using a 15v supply to which when used in the car, I will be using a line off the 12v rail. With only +3volts more and only driving the leds, figured that it wouldn't get that hot..

Side question, what was the reason behind using a blue led for the power. Don't get me wrong the blue leds are cool looking, but at this point in time, eversince they came out just about everything is done using these now...and the WOW/COOL factor just isn't the same as it was a couple years ago?

Thanks for the brain kick, must go and dig up all those jumpers....I post my findings for anyone else wondering about why this was happening...

greenman100 · 07-03-2007, 10:57 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Blue ZX3

Thanks for the brain kick, must go and dig up all those jumpers....I post my findings for anyone else wondering about why this was happening...

I can explain exactly why is happens.

There way the PIC samples is that it has one ADC and a 10 way switch. It connects to an input, charges a capacitor, reads the capacitor, and moves to the next. If there's nothing on the input, the capacitor never gets discharged to 0.

2k1Toaster · 07-03-2007, 11:33 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Blue ZX3

Side question, what was the reason behind using a blue led for the power. Don't get me wrong the blue leds are cool looking, but at this point in time, eversince they came out just about everything is done using these now...and the WOW/COOL factor just isn't the same as it was a couple years ago?

Well I didnt really even think about the "fad" being over. The real reason is because I like blue.

I am red/green colour blind, so reds, greens, browns, and deep yellows, all look the same-ish to me. Blue however I can see perfectly.

So my car is blue, my computer is blue, the led and actual PCB of the board is blue, my shirts are all blue/black.... Yeah, so that's why.