Intel MINI-ITX board - D201GLYL & D201GLY

[BlackStealth]

Quote: Originally Posted by wmpwi

My set up is:

TScreen: Shark SHK840
Motherboard: Intel D201GLY Mini-ITX
Processor: Celeron® 1.3
Memory: 1 Gig
Hard Drive #1: Hitachi 40 gig laptop
Front End: CF 1.47 at the present
GPS: BU-353
PSU: M1-ATX (I've tried a short and long delay for shut down)

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

I have the D201GLY2A, BU-353 GPS, M2-ATX-160watt, WinXP Pro SP3 and the com port number is consistent. Be sure to keep the com port number below 10 or iGuidance won't be happy.

FPeter: A 1.6Ghz Atom processor gives almost the same CPU performance as a 1.2 Ghz Celeron 220 processor, only the FPU operations are a little weaker which isn't used often. So you probably wouldn't see any noticeable CPU performance difference from between the D201GLY2A and D945GCLF.

I've read that the Celeron 220 processor max CPU temperature is 100C which is great, but not certain what the max temperature is for the motherboard. My trunk installation has seen 50C for both CPU and motherboard. If heat becomes a problem I would not hesitate to switch over to the cooler Atom.

[seninha]

As you all know this motherboard doesnt have a TV-out.To solved this problem I installed a ATI PCI card with TV-out.

Somehow I just can get the TV-out to work. (it did for a short moment but after re-installing the VGA drivers due to some problems it doesn work anymore)

Now I wonder if I can connect my touchscreen to the onboard VGA.
And then try to connect both rear screens to PCI tv-out.

I already configurated the BIOS into AUTO when it comes to the VGA.
Now when I connect my touchscreen to the onboard VGA, I can see in my windows configuration the ATI card. Problem is that it has a yellow warning on it.

Can someone help me to make it possible to use both VGA's at the same time Also want to know how to get into the ATI control panel to open the TV-out.

[TimmyM]

pretty sure you can only use one or the other, not both.

[wpiman]

I have a similar issue. I have a Toshiba HDD installed with XP on it. Sometimes the system will crash: and then reboot itself and not recognize the HDD. It goes to the SiS boot screen and tries to get a DHCP address: fails of course: then says it can't find the HDD. Sometime I will reboot via the keyboard and all will be well: other times I have to yank the fuse and then occasionally Windows will boot. In some instances I need to boot off a USB stick and run a fix on the HDD to get windows to boot. (http://ntldrismissing.com/)

I have been running HDD monitor and the disk seems cool. This morning I put a memTest 2 on my USB stick and ran than for my commute: no issues.

Got to work: rebooted and went to the BIOS. Interestingly: the BIOS didn't even SEE the HDD this time. I will probably check the power connection to the HDD and sATA connector: I wonder if they are rattling loose: but I am wondering if anyone else has seen this.

Quote: Originally Posted by seninha

Since I use the D201GLY2 a strange problem keeps comming back

System suddenlly doesnt want ot start any more. Not the nromal way , using my car keys, but also not if I just press the power button.

The first time that I had this, tought that my mainboard was dead so I took the PC out of the car and connected at home.
Turned the machine on and on my screen there was a message about TERMAL HEAT PROBLEMS, and therefore system was shutted down

Strange bacuse I already installed a 90cm fan on top of the heatsink to prevent problems like this.

Since today I have the same problem. This morning I used my car and CarPC whitout any problem.
Parked the car outside the house, system did go in to hibernate like always
3 hours laters I needed to go out , started my car and ...nothing

I remember that I read the CPU temp, and it was around 30 C , nothing really to worry about.

What I find strange is that this system that prevent the PC to overheat, reacts when system is out.
This because PC was working fine before I stoped in front of the house, to give this problem when .

Lets say that my system is really running to hot, then it must be shutted down while driving around and not like it dows now.

I wonder if anybody else recognize this problem

[nst6563]

not sure if I should post this here, or in it's own thread... so I'll start here and if it should be in it's own thread a Mod can move it or let me know and I'll create one

I take no responsibility if anyone tries the following and totally fubar's their board

Now with that said -

Long story short, I scraped off some SMT resistors around the NB while replacing the heatsinks with better ones (trunk of a Maxima gets very hot...especially in Houston). I was able to fix all but one, and the result was NO VIDEO (talk about ****ed).

So I found the connection points on the BOTTOM of the MB (as I fubarred the top ones). Scraped the green coating off and prepped them for soldering. Took a 10K 20 turn (or more, don't remember but it changes in small increments) POT and soldered it via wires to those points on the bottom of the board. Maxed out the resistance and turned the board on (I had nothing to lose at this point anyway right?). Slowly turned the pot and lo and behold... VIDEO... very dim at first, but the more I turned the POT to lower resistance, the brighter the picture got. I found a sweet spot at around 110ohms. So I mounted the pot on the back of the MB where the TV out should go so I have easy access.

So those of you that would like to make your screen brighter than your LCD will crank up to, you can try this (not however I do NOT have the SMT resistor on the topside of the board).

Here is the top of the board. Northbridge is on the left, ATX connector on the right for reference. The area circled in RED is where the original resistor was. The spots circled in GREEN are alternate contact points you can use on the top of the board. Unfortunately, I was tired, impatient, and just plain retarted in wanting to finish it and I toasted those too


Here are some photos of the locations I used to repair my board:

Here is a large shot of the back of the underside of the board. ATX connector is on the right for reference.


Here is a closeup (as close as my camera would get) of the area of the solder points. The bigger one is already exposed copper, the smaller one toward the top will have to be scraped)


Here is a closeup after the wires have been soldered in place. The wires I used were from a floppy drive cable (anyone even have a floppy drive anymore??). And no, I didn't bother to clean up after the surgery


And finally a shot of the final assembly. I'd take a video of brightening and darkening the screen, but my camera doesn't take videos that I know of. I'll see if I can find one that does.


Again - if you're happy with how bright your screen is then leave well enough alone. Otherwise, either get a brighter screen or try this (or both). This seems to increase the brightness a good deal without making the screen look washed or faded - unlike messing with the controlls on my lilliput.

[FPeter]

Quote: Originally Posted by nst6563

...

wow, sounds good!

what is the number of the resistor on the other side? or can you pls make a photo about its position? a potmeter can be connected parallel to it...

[nst6563]

Quote: Originally Posted by FPeter

wow, sounds good!

what is the number of the resistor on the other side? or can you pls make a photo about its position? a potmeter can be connected parallel to it...

Man, I wish I could. It broke in half which is why I was unable to replace it, not to mention when I did try to replace it I roasted the contact pads on top trying to mess with the tiny little thing. Not sure what size the SMT resistor was, but it was TINY. If I had to guess it's value, I'd say around 130-150ohms (I went a little brighter with mine and used 110ohms). I will take another photo of the area on top though, give me a few minutes and don't laugh at the charcoal work


:EDIT: gonna be about 20 minutes... battery died on the camera

:EDIT2: Post updated with a pic of the top.

[sovicka]

Quote: Originally Posted by BlackStealth

FPeter: A 1.6Ghz Atom processor gives almost the same CPU performance as a 1.2 Ghz Celeron 220 processor, only the FPU operations are a little weaker which isn't used often. So you probably wouldn't see any noticeable CPU performance difference from between the D201GLY2A and D945GCLF.

I am not sure about this statement - my D201GLY2A doesn't play smooth HD video (even with an aditional PCI GPU), but afaik D945GCLF does (at least 720p).
Just a few Hz and so big difference (I'm interested in this because my movie collection has about 40% in HD )!

[seninha]

I wonder if Intel is gonna introduce a mainboard with TV-out.
thats the only thing I miss a the moment.

[BlackStealth]

Quote: Originally Posted by sovicka

I am not sure about this statement - my D201GLY2A doesn't play smooth HD video (even with an aditional PCI GPU), but afaik D945GCLF does (at least 720p).
Just a few Hz and so big difference (I'm interested in this because my movie collection has about 40% in HD )!

I don't play anything HD on my carpc as my screen resolution is 800x600. For normal carpc apps, the atom processor is adequate. I'd suggest getting something else for a home theater PC.

[sovicka]

Quote: Originally Posted by BlackStealth

I don't play anything HD on my carpc as my screen resolution is 800x600. ...

Yes, you are absolutely right - I mean it for the case that I have some movie in HD quality and I want to play it on my carpc without any conversion needed

(and by the way, Intel Atom is full 64-bit and HT compatible + chipset [especially SATA] used on this board is faster than on D201GLY2A) - but this features you'll use more in server than in carpc)

[upspace]

what pci riser card can you recommend for these boards? are there also models which make 1 pci to 2 (to add graphics and soundcard)?

[BlackStealth]

Yeah I read on a website that they managed to get a PCI riser with 2 slots to work on this motherboard. Forgot the website, but I'm sure if you do some searching you'll find it.