Intel MINI-ITX board - D201GLYL & D201GLY

[TimmyM]

Quote: Originally Posted by MMZonker

That's the recommended setting for the m2-atx when you have the jumpers right. As I understand it, after 2 hrs, it's a total shutdown of the power rails when jumper B is set. You can probably just come out of hibernate before 2hrs. If all the jumpers are removed, it's a standard PSU. how do you have it setup?

thats the way I have it set up. The M2-ATX doesn't do ether standby or hibernation, that is set in the OS, which WMPWI explained. The M2-ATX simply presses the computers power button. Then the computer will either go into hibernation,standby, shutdown,ask me what to do, or Do Nothing. depending on what you have selected under Power Options Properties/Advanced/When I Press The Power Button On My Computer:. I never thought to change that from Hibernation, which I used with a inverter/PSU, to standby. I'll have to give it a try and see what happens.

The 2 hour shutdown does not effect hibernation since the computer shuts down once it's in hibernation. It will effect standby, I'm assuming it completely shuts down the computer and you would reboot cold.

[upspace]

Quote: Originally Posted by upspace

the same here as posted previously. its a fantastic board for a car pc but having the bios post screen staying for 30-40 secs alone it takes ages to boot or de-hibernate (de-hibernate only takes 10 secs for 1 gb ram for me).

what is the trick with the bios to make post faster? bios upgrade (doubt), hardware issue (1gb ram check - how to disable, set to fast mode), 21/2 inch harddisk...

or is it the usb hub with 9 usb devices attached (gps mouse, wifi, dvb-t, touchscreen, usb keyboard, etc.) that tries to boot/recognize proprietary usb devices.

the bios splash screen now only stays about 7-10 secs by disable usb legacy drivers in the BIOS settings.

that is the bios tries not to load all the usb devices attached on my car pc (dvb-t, wlan, gps mouse, carnetx psu monitor, touchscreen, keyboard, dvd drive, external usb disk...) which are not of use at boot time anyhow.

disadvantage i cannot use the usb keyboard to change bios settings but have to connect a "normal" ps/2 which is fine since you are doing this only one or two times.

hope this helps others too to bring boot time down.

[wmpwi]

Now that the discussion is getting further in to power supplies, has anyone run this board in the Morex 5677 Mini-ITX case, as in this with the included power supply? It seems that the mother board requires one of those 12 V processor core voltage connector (2 x 2) type plugs which the power supply that comes with the case does not have. Do I have to get a different wiring harness or am I stuck with having to get a whole new power supply? (this is the part were my electronic illiteracy starts beaming through). Thanks

Charley

[Tensai]

I thought the opus had the 4pin plug on it. I'm probably wrong though, I've really only looked at the M2 since that's what I have. But you're right, you can use any ATX power supply that includes the 4 pin P4 plug on it. Most boards that have that plug will meet the current requirements on the 12V rail.

[-zip-]

Quote: Originally Posted by wmpwi

Now that the discussion is getting further in to power supplies, has anyone run this board in the Morex 5677 Mini-ITX case, as in this with the included power supply? It seems that the mother board requires one of those 12 V processor core voltage connector (2 x 2) type plugs which the power supply that comes with the case does not have. Do I have to get a different wiring harness or am I stuck with having to get a whole new power supply? (this is the part were my electronic illiteracy starts beaming through). Thanks

Charley

Looks like your power supply only supports 60W, dont think it would be powerful enough. The 12v P4 connector can be hooked up with a cable that connects to one of your 4pin molex connectors that powers your hard drive etc.

The connector that you buy is not the best solution, but the only solution. Basically it supports only 5A on the 12v rail as that is what standard ATX power supplies needed to support back in the day. The P4 connector was designed to push 8A. So this solution is not recommended by Intel.

If yours is only 60w your 12v rail(s) will be really low.

[Homebrew]

For everyone's reference, I'm currently using this board with a morex t3310 case, though i'm using it for a home router/firewall not as a carpc. This case has a 60w PSU and also is missing the P4 connector. It took quite a bit of work to get this setup running in this case, so I don't recommend the combination, but so far it's been up for about a week and I haven't had any problems. Not to say that problems won't develop, as I realize a week isn't very long. I realize this isn't up to intel's specs, but just wanted to throw it out there that I'm another person running this board on a low power PSU and molex to P4 converter. Granted I'm using a lot less devices than most of you would be using. I'm only running a 5400rpm laptop HDD and a 10/100 nic in the pci slot. No additional fans, no CD/DVD drive, and no usb devices except when I hook a keyboard and mouse to it when local administration is absolutley necessary. It may be that I'm able to get away with this PSU setup simply because I'm running so little off of it. It can be done obviously, but people should prepared that problems could crop up using such a PSU setup. My setup is nowhere close to being proper, but so far it does function as it should. I gotta say though, I do have my doubts about the longevity of the PSU. If I were gonna use this as a carpc, I would definetly run a better PSU. Just my $.02.

For the guy asking about heatsink options, you can look at heatsinks designed for northbridge chips as many of these use the same style retaining clip. Be VERY careful if you decide to do this since this is an application those heatsinks weren't designed for. With that said, I think if you get an all copper heatsink of equal or larger size, you'll be alright. I'm currently looking at this heatsink:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/minoxewh.html

Because of my case, I can't get a heatsink that is more than a few mm taller than stock. This fits that requirement. Also it says it can be used on pentium-m chips so that makes me feel a little safer as well. The drawback is that it doesn't use the style retaining clip thats on the board. However I think it could be easily adapted to do so. You could also replace the stock thermal pad with some Arctic silver(I've already done this) if you wan't some added cooling but don't wish to change the heatsink.

-Kevin

[wmpwi]

Keven, Thank you. An informed response. While not what I wanted to hear, it was what I needed to know. I'm a little disappointed that the PS isn't workable since the people that sell these (the mother board as well as the case) imply something like "The Morex Cubid 5677 Mini ITX case is compatible with the motherboards we carry in the store." Maybe compatible with the boards, but apparently one can't assume that the accompanying power supply will work. I do like the case but, I'll have to buy another power supply. Hope you don't mind and occasional question during my build and thanks again for the input.

C

QUOTE=Homebrew;1133713]For everyone's reference, I'm currently using this board with a morex t3310 case, though i'm using it for a home router/firewall not as a carpc. This case has a 60w PSU and also is missing the P4 connector.<snip> change the heatsink.

-Kevin[/QUOTE]

[Homebrew]

No problem, just sharing my experience. You're mileage may vary. FYI, I believe Sonicxtacy02 is using the case you mentioned with this board, though I'm not sure he commented on the PSU. I also forgot to mention that not only am I using the molex to P4 adapter cable, but it's plugged into a molex Y splitter. The PSU only had one molex, to I had to split it to power the HDD and provide the P4 connection. I also had to use an ATX harness extension because of the location of the ATX Plug on the board. The t3310's motherboard cable was too short to reach. So as you can see my setup is far from ideal. I'm gonna keep running it though and see how things go.

-Kevin

[Sonicxtacy02]

Quote: Originally Posted by Homebrew

No problem, just sharing my experience. You're mileage may vary. FYI, I believe Sonicxtacy02 is using the case you mentioned with this board, though I'm not sure he commented on the PSU. I also forgot to mention that not only am I using the molex to P4 adapter cable, but it's plugged into a molex Y splitter. The PSU only had one molex, to I had to split it to power the HDD and provide the P4 connection. I also had to use an ATX harness extension because of the location of the ATX Plug on the board. The t3310's motherboard cable was too short to reach. So as you can see my setup is far from ideal. I'm gonna keep running it though and see how things go.

-Kevin

i never really tried to use that pos 60 watt included psu. I plugged it in with a molex/p4 converter.. tried to turn it on and the thing burned out for seemingly no apparent reason. I would advise anyone to try it else something worse could happen.

[b10hazard]

FWIW, i have one of these boards I used in a NES PC (in case you have been living under a rock, that is a PC stuffed into an old Nintendo.) I have it powered by a Pico-PSU thats rated for 120 watts, but using a power brick only rated for 60.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813995001

I have a laptop DVD burner, a laptop 30 gb HDD, an extra 60mm fan, all powered without problem

[MMZonker]

I recently bought this motherboard, but can't get it to power up. The standby indicator light is turned on. When I put the jumper into the "on" position, the processor fan, hard drive, and CD-Rom drive start up but everything shuts down about 3 seconds later, without anything being displayed to the screen. I'm not sure what I could be doing wrong. I'm using an Dell power supply that has the P4 connector. The only thing I can think of is that the ATX connector appears to be missing 1 wire, the -5V on the motherboard. Would this condition cause that problem? It seemed to be fine on the dell it was originally powering...

[MMZonker]

EDIT: I used a different PSU with the - 5V line. Still the same problem.

[b10hazard]

don't leave the jumper on, that will cause the board to turn on, then hard off. put the jumper on, then pull it back off. Better yet, just get an old computer case, and pull out the power button.

[TruckinMP3]

Quote: Originally Posted by b10hazard

don't leave the jumper on, that will cause the board to turn on, then hard off. put the jumper on, then pull it back off. Better yet, just get an old computer case, and pull out the power button.

What b10hazard is saying is use a pushbutton momentary switch with the leads from an old case.

If the old case is too old the switch will be latching and not any different from your current jumper example.

[MMZonker]

Sweet. Momentary contact works great. What a newbie question....

Thanks.