Core Duo / Core 2 Duo Mini-ITX boards - Page 10

RedGTiVR6 · 11-29-2008, 08:35 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by LCat

Well looks like I have a better set of requirements now - Penryn board(so Kino is out), PCI slot, do not care about onboard audio at all, but 2 display onboard video might be nice

- Any suggestion - at any price

Have you spent some time to look through the current list or even through the current offerings on the market? Chances are VERY good that you're not going to get someone on here to just tell you what to buy.

That's something that's up to you.

Just like you wouldn't get someone from the audiophile world to tell you that you should buy X speakers and Y amplifiers....that's not going to happen here.

rijk · 11-29-2008, 08:40 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6

I'm not sure I understand your post. Are you saying that I should consider putting a CarPC in the engine bay of my car?

a 1000 words:

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...lvo-440-a.html

i realy liked that position, it only got to cold. In sommer you switch on your blower of the car more often anyway. And the amount of airflow there is huge. Also, because its outside of the car. There is no noise in the car.

Cold m4 startuptime: 33 sec. (full xp no tweaks)

RedGTiVR6 · 11-29-2008, 10:56 AM

1) I literally have no where to put a computer in my engine bay
2) On a 115 degree day down here, the engine bay of the car routinely reached over 150 degrees
3) Just because the cooling fans kick on more, doesn't mean that they keep the engine bay at a temperature low enough to sustain a computer.
3a) cooling fans are designed to move air across a radiator, not to cool an engine bay
4) I have a skid plate that effectively seals off the bottom side of the engine bay from the rest of the environment, meaning it gets even warmer in my engine bay

You've suggested this to me before, btw. And the reasons it still wont work are the same.

Perhaps it's not making sense because I'm using our temperature system. Maybe this would help

115F = 46C
150F = 65.5C

Computers don't like to run in ambient temperatures of that nature and still remain reliable.

HiJackZX1 · 11-29-2008, 12:25 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6

I guess I should just ignore you then...maybe that would have been the better solution.

Perhaps my tone didn't come across correctly in text, imagine that.

I'm not sure what set you over the edge on it, but I wasn't being touchy, I was heading off the entire discussion before it happened...since it wasn't necessary.

Wouldnt it have been easier to simply say, I was just using this as in axample, I have no heat issues.

INSTEAD of doing stuff like THIS. Its COOL though, I really dont MIND if you ignore ME. Thats better then YOUR comments.

rijk · 11-29-2008, 01:17 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6

1) I literally have no where to put a computer in my engine bay
2) On a 115 degree day down here, the engine bay of the car routinely reached over 150 degrees
3) Just because the cooling fans kick on more, doesn't mean that they keep the engine bay at a temperature low enough to sustain a computer.
3a) cooling fans are designed to move air across a radiator, not to cool an engine bay
4) I have a skid plate that effectively seals off the bottom side of the engine bay from the rest of the environment, meaning it gets even warmer in my engine bay

You've suggested this to me before, btw. And the reasons it still wont work are the same.

Perhaps it's not making sense because I'm using our temperature system. Maybe this would help

115F = 46C
150F = 65.5C

Computers don't like to run in ambient temperatures of that nature and still remain reliable.

Sorry i forgot i suggested it before, just trying to help.

1)
I am very creative with space, its part of my trade.
The architect i used to work for told me that university changes the way you think, and it takes years to become aware of that. Thank you for making me a little more aware.
But do try to bee creative there is always a little space somewhere.
Fore example:
My car has on the right side of the car before the front wheel the power-steering. But on the left side this space is completely empty they too are separate from the engine bay.
You also don’t have to have all the components of your cpc in the same casing, this reduces the amount of space you need.
Think outside the box, i know you can.
Your car has to have a space to put your mobo and keep it cool without nois.

2)
I know the temp shortens the live-span of the mobo, but i did ask:

Quote: Originally Posted by rijk

If you change boards this quickly, maybe my old position of the mobo is a solution for you.

3), 4)
This goes for your car, not for mine. If you look at the pictures you see that it is not really part of the engine-bay.
This position does keep the mobo cool, because it sits right on top of the air-intake of the interior fan.
It was bolted on to it. The air has to pas over it. And so cooling is very good, i had the prove of that with the temp-readings of the dsx.
You also see that it is a separate compartment and not part of the engine bay, i never sad it would cool the engine bay.

Hope you get the cooling / position sorted out.
If you need help i will be glad to brainstorm with you on the position of the mobo.

HiJackZX1 · 11-29-2008, 01:34 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rijk

Sorry i forgot i suggested it before, just trying to help.

1)
I am very creative with space, its part of my trade.
The architect i used to work for told me that university changes the way you think, and it takes years to become aware of that. Thank you for making me a little more aware.
But do try to bee creative there is always a little space somewhere.
Fore example:
My car has on the right side of the car before the front wheel the power-steering. But on the left side this space is completely empty they too are separate from the engine bay.
You also don’t have to have all the components of your cpc in the same casing, this reduces the amount of space you need.
Think outside the box, i know you can.
Your car has to have a space to put your mobo and keep it cool without nois.

2)
I know the temp shortens the live-span of the mobo, but i did ask:

3), 4)
This goes for your car, not for mine. If you look at the pictures you see that it is not really part of the engine-bay.
This position does keep the mobo cool, because it sits right on top of the air-intake of the interior fan.
It was bolted on to it. The air has to pas over it. And so cooling is very good, i had the prove of that with the temp-readings of the dsx.
You also see that it is a separate compartment and not part of the engine bay, i never sad it would cool the engine bay.

Hope you get the cooling / position sorted out.
If you need help i will be glad to brainstorm with you on the position of the mobo.

I remember looking through your work log.... How does the PC get ventilation? Is it connected to the fire wall? Also on my Porsche 944 I know it had a similar area were you whave yours and I always had issues with water collecting in there, how are you avoiding this?

rijk · 11-29-2008, 02:20 PM

The first place of the mobo with the first casing (drilled), second casing was the closed one, but for the rest pretty mutch the same as this one. The closed version was to reduces the amount of airflow over the mobo. Can you imagin a mobo that gets to cold:

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

I remember looking through your work log.... How does the PC get ventilation? Is it connected to the fire wall? Also on my Porsche 944 I know it had a similar area were you whave yours and I always had issues with water collecting in there, how are you avoiding this?

It was vented by the air that was sucked in by the interieur fan (blower)

Pic 1) is the normal and the modify top of the air-inlet. You can see 4 bolts.
Pic 2) is the backside of the air-inlet with the mobo attached (i was testing the space for the metal bar (black with the grove in it)
Pic 3) the old air-intake. On the bottom you can just see the fan (blower)
Pic 4) the mobo in the car bolted to the air-intake (it had a specific order in witch bolt / screw to tighten up) Putting the mobo in its place took about 30 minutes (some of the nuts where very difficult to reach.
Pic 5) The water draining hole with the wiring

The air-intake is lifted up about 3 cm. And there are two holes that drain the water away. Threw one of the holes i thread the wiring.

The temp of the mobo is about the same as the outside air-temp. If i lived in a hotter country, or the global warming picks up this is still the space i think is the best for the mobo.

I’ll post this too in the worklog, i got a feeling Red’s gone delete this post.

danielkh · 11-29-2008, 03:49 PM

While 30+ off topic posts is probably enough, I just wanted to mention that there are still CPU size peltiers out there if fan noise is an issue for anyone. I used one on my old 386 (when it was the latest technology....the 386, not the peltier

) and they work great. Here is an example.

http://cgi.ebay.com/136-8W-TEC-Therm...1%7C240%3A1318

LCat · 11-29-2008, 04:04 PM

I would be very cautios with using Pelter units on CPU - 1st you still need to get heat out from the top of it somehow, 2nd - if it fails which in car is very likely - your CPU is toast in the matter of seconds.

danielkh · 11-29-2008, 04:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by LCat

I would be very cautios with using Pelter units on CPU - 1st you still need to get heat out from the top of it somehow, 2nd - if it fails which in car is very likely - your CPU is toast in the matter of seconds.

I actually used the peltier between the cpu and heat sink/fan. Only adds a little to the height. That way if the peltier fails, the heatsink/fan continues to work. The equipment I service uses a PC (single core processor) and I've had several fans die. The computer shuts down, but none of them have been destroyed. The heat sink seems to have pretected them enough to let them shutdown safely. So maybe peltier with heatsink. Anyway, just an idea. I'm done with the off topic posts.

EQNish · 02-18-2009, 04:25 PM

I did a quick look through this thread and didn't see any linfo list on the Intel DQ45EK Mini-ITX board, I just purchased it and love how fast this thing is...I'll get some pics up tonight, I want to skim though this thread more to make ure no one else has reviewed it so I'm not the work

radu_rd2 · 02-21-2009, 08:20 AM

Slightly off-topic, but here's the only slim cooler I could find for core 2s:
http://www.aerocooler.com/shop.cart?...od_id=FANSS775

I believe this will fit in a VOOMPC case.

Actually, there is also another one, but I couldn't find any place to buy it: http://www.jetart.com/detail/75191/75191.html

EQNish · 02-21-2009, 09:09 PM

while I really like all the copper on the second link you posted, the fan cage on this one I like better, maybe a combination of the 2

Ebay ITX Fan

After using this board for some 3 months , it's pretty nice, but runs REALLY hot;
Procesor was 105F+
MoBo was over 150F
The I/O Controller would get 200F+
Memory Controller Hub would get near 170F+

I removed the default heat sinks and added a new one (Evercool Serpent Northbridge Chip Cooler) to the I/O hub and then moved the origanl I/O Hub heat sink to the memory controller. Temps are all now at or near 100F+ except the I/O controller which is under 140F
I put this in an In-Win B639 in black!