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Old 01-05-2003, 02:44 PM   #1
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Connecting wires to switch, dumb electrical question

The two terminals on my switch look like this How do I connect wires to them? Solder? or are there connectors i can buy?

Also, how many amps is a car battery?
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Old 01-05-2003, 02:58 PM   #2
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go to any automotive store and they will have 1/4" crimp on connectors like this in a kit with some pliers and other connectors, get one of those(around 12 USD) and youll have all you need. Just strip the wire a bit 1/4" or so, slide it into the approprate sized connector and crimp it with the pliers.
A car battery CAN supply 200+amps of power when short circuted. However your alternator on your car cannot! just for a refrence an 300W inverter will pull ~30 amps at full draw and your ALT should be able to handel this without much dificulty.
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Old 01-05-2003, 03:03 PM   #3
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Will radioshack have it?
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Old 01-05-2003, 03:05 PM   #4
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Use a tool like this :Wire-Crimping Tool Set

Last edited by GRUNT : 01-05-2003 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 01-05-2003, 03:07 PM   #5
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Yes they should have one of the kits, the reason I said an automotive store is usually they are cheaper there and of equal quality.
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Old 01-05-2003, 03:09 PM   #6
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Do I really need this whole kit? Im just going to be doing this one switch.
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Old 01-05-2003, 03:12 PM   #7
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well...
probally not,
if its just 2 connectors.. you could crimp it with normal pliers, but I wouldent trust the crimp. The kit will also give you a wire stripper, crimper, and small bolt cutter as well as lots of other connectors that you will use if you ever do any electrical on your car.
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Old 01-05-2003, 03:15 PM   #8
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So what connectors do i need if I dont get the kit?

I have this switch BTW. Think it's enough to switch the power to my 300w inverter?
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Old 01-05-2003, 03:25 PM   #9
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if you're still confused as to what you need, here's a link on radioshack's site

quick disconnects

at least I think this is what ure seaching for.
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Old 01-06-2003, 12:50 PM   #10
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If you don't draw more than 250w from the inverter that switch will be fine. You could use a relay if you need a higher current, but that's just making things more complicated.

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Old 01-06-2003, 01:45 PM   #11
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That switch handles 12amps max continuous according to what they say.

He didn't say what it would be used for, so that is probable the first question to ask.

If it is an inverter or other high power device he is powering, a relay may not be a bad idea since he can run the battery power directly to the source(inverter¿) without making a detour to the switch.

At that point, he could use any switch. Smaller or otherwise without fear.

In any case, be sure to fuse the power connection as close to the battery as possible...

Just my thoughts...

-Mario
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Old 01-06-2003, 02:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
If it is an inverter or other high power device he is powering, a relay may not be a bad idea since he can run the battery power directly to the source(inverter¿) without making a detour to the switch.

Can you elaborate on what I would need to do to accomplish this? I will be installing 4 AWG from the battery to the trunk where the inverter and amp are going...i would like to be able to turn the inverter on and off from the front of the car...or have it wired to the ignition.

Thanks!
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Old 01-06-2003, 04:32 PM   #13
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Okay, wasn't aware you would have a run to the back with an amp too.

I'll assume you'll be fused at the battery with some sort of power distribution block in the back.

Do you know what the fuse/circuit breaker is rated for on the inverter?

Is there a switch of some ort on the inverter now?


-Mario
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Old 01-06-2003, 04:47 PM   #14
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not sure what the fuse is rated at in the inverter...i can look here in a bit to see.

There is a power switch on the inverter.
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Old 01-06-2003, 09:53 PM   #15
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There is a simple formula to determine current, wattage or amperage when the other two are known. the formula is P=IE (power in watts equals current in amps time voltage) For example, a switch rated at 25 amps at 12 VDC would be good for 300 watts.

I strongly recommend the use of relays for heavy duty switching needs. This is how I have my Epia system wired so that it will only boot when the radio is on. I used the 12V amplifier trigger wire, which is only rated at about 1a. I connected one end of the coil to the trigger wire from the head unit, and the other end to ground. The other two terminals are wired inline from my amplifier ditribution block to the positive input on my PC. Whenever the radio is on, current flows through the coil, creating a magnetic field which causes the heavy duty metal contacts to close, allowing power to flow the input terminal on the PC. I used a standard Bosch type SPST relay (there is also a SPDT which is identical except for an additional terminal labeled 87a) that I had left over from some old alarm installations.
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