Relocating headunit and extending faceplate somewhere else. - Page 5

LESLIEx317537 · 11-01-2004, 11:29 AM

I figure if you have a CarPC, you should have a DVD-ROM/CD-Burner up front.
So no need for the headunit CD player.

I got a slotload laptop DVD-CDRW that uses the standard laptop to IDE converter for 70 buks. The 15' foot IDE cable that was so disputed at first till I proved people wrong using 80 wires was only 16 buks for me. So if you do this mod, just spend 100 buks and you can burn CD's up front also.

cheerio · 11-01-2004, 11:42 AM

Well, a reason to keep the headunit is channel seperation, something not done too well by soundcards. Plus HPF, HPF, ability to control woofer dynamically is a ++. That doesnt look like fun for me as i have a pioneer HU and all the solderpoints are RIGHT next to eachother. BTW, yes that is the correct way to solder, but it only works good with rosin core solder. just my 2.

LESLIEx317537 · 11-01-2004, 12:15 PM

I have fine channel seperation with my Sound Blaster Audigy 2 NX.
I can control each channel in 4.1 mode. I just don't have a center channel.

I have two amps in my trunk and all the preamps can be controlled via software using the Creative control panel.

The Soundblaster does have a High Pass Filter on it, and so do my amps.

I guess you'd have to hear my system to believe it.

Also if you ever modded a PS2, then those solder points are real close, less than 1mm apart.

turbocad6 · 11-01-2004, 03:45 PM

my 2 cents: it is tinning when you tin the tip of the iron & when you tin the wire end & when you tin the terminal. The main reason for tinning is that you don't want to tranfer to much heat to the components, & tinning allows you to solder with just enough heat, & then when both sides are prepped(tinned) you will need minimal amount of heat to join the two. also note that while hot glue can work, it does have a VERY low melting point & in car temps can & do rise enough to at least soften it too much. This type of extending has been used for years & the pro way of doing it would involve epoxy for a permanent solution or another way is silicone. silicone is great because it is stiff enough to support non agressive handling while still being able to service the connection in the future, but if you do it right the first time epoxy will eliminate the need for you to ever have to screw with it again...keep in mind that with silicone it will take several days for the middle to solidify depending on how thick it is applied & STAY AWAY FROM HIGH HEAT SILICONE as some have been known to use metalic particals, bad news for this type of use...

Don 944 LA · 11-01-2004, 07:09 PM

I have one of those new JVC LHX 500 headunits and it has the faceplate / touchscreen that angles out at the press of a button ( on FP or remote )..

Has anyone given thought to also moving the face reciever and any hinges and motors ???

Don

judoGTI · 11-02-2004, 02:10 PM

Should be the same, just make sure you mount it well.

Peoples · 12-20-2004, 03:44 PM

two questions, potentially stupid.

First of all, I wanted to know if in the application it would be smarter to use a grounded soldering iron. If the thing your soldering is not live, is it really at major rist of esd for the soldering iron?

Secondly, would it be possible for you to split each connection to two wires, that way you could use two identical faceplates at once?

LESLIEx317537 · 12-20-2004, 04:19 PM

Using a grounded soldering iron is not neccesary for this app. Only for really sensitive devices.

If you use two faceplates, then you risk drawing alot of amps out of the headunit and might overheat/burn it out. Let me know if you attempt to try it.

RedGTiVR6 · 12-20-2004, 04:57 PM

cool cool

glad to see more people doing this, I've seen this done to cars for years now....and yes, even in the rearview location. It's possible and perfectly legal as long as you put a rearview back in the car....lol

glad to see more people getting into custom work on their car stereos!

MkRacer220 · 06-13-2005, 02:18 PM

Here's the prob....I have all the wires connected (cat5) to the face and HU. None of the wires are touching and they all match up. Everthing on the face (buttons) works, but the volume control. All the buttons light up, the eject button works, but I cannot get the volume control to work. When I hit the reset button and then turn the player on, if i turn the volume control right away I get the volume display to come up for a sec then it goes away, but the volume doesnt change and it wont come back up. I have checked all my solders and they seem good. I cannot figure out why the volume wont work. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Tony

bosstone74 · 06-13-2005, 02:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by MkRacer220

Here's the prob....I have all the wires connected (cat5) to the face and HU. None of the wires are touching and they all match up. Everthing on the face (buttons) works, but the volume control. All the buttons light up, the eject button works, but I cannot get the volume control to work. When I hit the reset button and then turn the player on, if i turn the volume control right away I get the volume display to come up for a sec then it goes away, but the volume doesnt change and it wont come back up. I have checked all my solders and they seem good. I cannot figure out why the volume wont work. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Tony

Here is a thought, I have not done this but...
On my head unit, if I remove the face (controller) there are some switches that are needed to be pushed in for the head unit to operate. And I'm not talking about the where the metal contacts need to meet up. Just a button or a switch...
take a look

LESLIEx317537 · 06-13-2005, 02:42 PM

Have you traced the connections to make sure you don't have any shorts?

Also what BossTone74 said maybe true, it could be that the volume is physical, but you should have noticed that.

MkRacer220 · 06-13-2005, 03:36 PM

Thanks guys, but the volume is built into the circuitry of the board connecting the face to the HU. There is only one button that needs to be pressed in and thats the one that tells the cd player if the face is connected or not.

I have issolated the problem to just the HU side b/c i took another face (exact same) and hooked it up and the same prob. I checked all wires for shorts and there are none.

After going back and rechecking the solders I found one to be loose, like the wire is connected to the pin, but the pin can move side to side in the board. I don't think it is made to do that. It may be a loose connection which is giving the volume not enough juice or something.

I've been working on it for bout 7 hrs straight trying to figure out what is wrong!!

Tony

LESLIEx317537 · 06-13-2005, 03:38 PM

Goodluck and let us know if you are able to fix it and identify the problem.

RS3RS · 06-13-2005, 03:48 PM

I'm going to give this a shot in the Focus, as there is no real place to mount the headunit...

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