Relocating headunit and extending faceplate somewhere else. - Page 7

LESLIEx317537 · 01-28-2006, 11:30 AM

About to get my new CarPC parts today. Woo Hoo.

Still no headunit for me.

Don't break your HU's cause I showed you this...

DaveB · 01-28-2006, 12:12 PM

JustinTime,

Yes, I've tried both. Currently I have made a mold of the male part from the back of the faceplate. I cast a part from the mold, with embedded flat metal strips. So now I can attach my wires and plug into the HU and I don't have to solder on it. I'll let you know if it works.

judoGTI · 01-28-2006, 12:38 PM

YOu can always order the male and femail faceplate plug connectors from the manufactor, I think mine were $40 from Pioneer if I wanted them

justintime · 02-04-2006, 05:02 PM

Well, I have given up with my stock radio (Honda), and figured that detaching the faceplate on this model is not worth my time. So I *will*n spend some cash and get this done right.

I am thinking of going with the Alpine 9845 (Alpine CDE-9845), which is basically the cheapest Alpine that will change all the button colors to match my dash (in my case, amber/orange).

It has a detachable faceplate, so the multimillion dollar question is: has anyone had success wiring the faceplate on this model remotely (or similar Alpine model in the CDE/CDA-XXXX series). I tried removing the faceplate at BestBuy, but they have them kinda glued in there (^%%^$%$!!)

Thanks for any help.

justintime · 02-05-2006, 10:57 PM

I GAVE IN!!!

guizai · 01-17-2007, 03:44 PM

I was talking to a Panasonic service technician today regarding this and he said that not only will the length of the wire be a factor but even the solder itself. He stated that they use silver solder in order to have a lower resistance. I wonder if that is what's causing people to have problems with their setups.

LESLIEx317537 · 01-17-2007, 05:00 PM

I really doubt the solder will make a difference if the length of the wires are too long.

It's a matter of resistance. All wires have resistance and if it gets too long, the electricity will turn into heat and not reach the designated areas.

justintime · 01-17-2007, 08:20 PM

I think what guizai is saying, is that for SHORT wire runs, the type of solder can make the difference between success and failure.

Megalomaniac · 01-17-2007, 08:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mykolJay

I saw this one on another board. I was thinking of doing the same with my sunglass holder on my 99 accord. However, I have heard people having issues with the length of extension wires and also on my pioneer p7000r, the eject button is on the back of the faceplate.

Look awesome though.

please find out who did this i want to talk to him

firstorbit84 · 10-27-2009, 10:35 PM

Back from the dead!

I'm about to try this hack with a Clarion DB179MP head unit which is on its way from NewEgg....

One difference in this head unit's faceplate that might help me a bit is that it looks like the eject button and Aux input are both on part of the unit that does not detach.

However it looks like the faceplate connector has 18 pins instead of the 16 that many others have, which would mean that I'd have to use 3 Cat 5 cables instead of the usual 2... I'm also considering an old printer cable with a DB-25 connection... While it would potentially be easier to work with a single cable instead of three, the heads of these cables are quite large and bulky.... So, I'll probably have to do some test routing before I decide which cable(s) to go with... Any thoughts?

RipplingHurst · 10-27-2009, 11:49 PM

I've found a cable with 22 wires at my local Fry's to extend the OEM LCD monitor on my M35. I used 20 of them, it was about $6.99 for 20ft aprox. (25 AWG, so it's the same as Ethernet), and they were good enough for that. No idea what this cable were for though, it had no name in the clear package.

firstorbit84 · 10-28-2009, 12:03 AM

No Fry's here in Florida.... but wait, how did you connect the other end?? Please don't tell me you soldered it in the car??

I'd like to be able to do all the soldering on the bench and then just run cables and plug them in to each other while in the car, which is why I might end up going with 3 Cat5s.

RipplingHurst · 10-28-2009, 01:05 AM

I had to. Patience is a virtue. I couldn't solder both ends on the bench because of the size of the harness. You just need lots of light and a safe, stable place to rest the iron at all times, and half of your problems are gone. Cover everthing, of course, and I mean everything.

firstorbit84 · 10-28-2009, 10:52 PM

Well it looks like I was wrong about the eject button being on the Head Unit instead of the faceplate. It is definitely on the face place. However, the faceplate has a slot through which the CD passes so the face does not have to be off to eject it which means that I shouldn't have any issues there....

Another thought: Since my faceplate will likely be in the center console where the remote will not be able to aim at it, has anyone tried relocating the IR eye to another location?? Or even adding an Auxiliary IR receiver somewhere on the dash??

turbocad6 · 10-29-2009, 12:11 AM

remote locating the eye isn't hard, or you could use a PAC IR repeater too if you don't want to have to hack up the faceplate...

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