2008 Honda Civic EX Upcoming Build.

DJMikeT · 06-07-2009, 03:04 AM

Hello everyone,

Below is a list of what will be going into my build as well as my goals for my customization of my Honda Civic.

Goals:

Custom CarPC that looks OEM.
Minimal trunk space loss for audio (Subs, Amps).
Compact but powerful CarPC.
Top notch sound system.

Audio Components:

Subs - JL Audio 10W7 (2) or possibly the 13TW5 (2) Depending on space requirements
Sub Amp - JL Audio 500/1v2 Class D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier or 1000/1 (Depending on space).
Mids and Highs - Focal Polyglass 165VB and 165CVX
Mid and High Amp - JL Audio 300/4v2 Class A/B Four-Channel Full-Range Amplifier.

CarPC Components:

Touchscreen - mp3Car.com 7'' Sunlight Readable Touchscreen Monitor
Case - Still debating, or may make a custom case
Processor - Definitely Intel Core Duo
Motherboard - Still debating and researching
Powersupply - Most likely the M2-ATX-HV 160W Intelligent DC-DC PSU
Front End - Still researching
Wireless Card - Still researching
Bluetooth - Still researching
GPS - Still researching
USB - Still researching
Hard Drives - Haven't decided yet
RAM - Depends on MOBO I chose
Microphone - Andrea Electronics Superbeam Array Microphone Bundle

I'll be posting some pictures as soon as I get started.

I'll also be updating this topic as I make my final choices.

DJMikeT · 06-07-2009, 04:54 AM

Well I'm having a little delimma on which MotherBoard to chose. The thing is I don't want an intergrated CPU such as the ATOM nor do I want Socket M Processors. I realize that the Socket LGA775 maybe "more than" what is actually required for a CarPC, but I am constantly upgrading my Desktop stuff and would like to use and impliment those parts into my CarPC. This is more cost effective for me, and I'd like to keep my CarPC close to current computing standards.

So far I'm thinking of either:

Intel BLKDG45FC here from the mp3car store or
Intel Desktop Board BOXDQ45EK LGA775

Both boards have more of the features that I have in mind. Just wondering if anyone is using a similar configuration?

Also one thing I'm really leery of is intergrated graphics. I prefer stand alone video but I realize that "smaller" is supposed to be generally better in the CarPC world. However, I suppose with the lower resolutions of a 7-10" screen a video card may not be warranted. At least that seems logical to me, but I still don't like intergrated graphics!!!

oslpag · 06-08-2009, 04:51 AM

Welcome to the world of CarPC

I too am about to embark on my car PC build for my Civic Type R. I am in Europe so my Civic will be different from yours I guess.

I agree with your goals although I am willing to sacrifice some sound quality, for me it needs to be good not perfect. Some additional goals for me are Navigation, quick startup and reversing aids.

I have already started some sourcing of my components, I have initially tried to keep costs down my using some existing equipment lower end components, if I am successful with my install I will upgrade later.

I have a few comments on the hardware that might help, of course these are only my views from my experience.

I am currently using a Intel D945GCLF2 with 330 Atom and 2GB Ram. I have to say that I am quite please with this board, I know it is not the fastest chipset around, but so far I have found it adequate for a car install. One benefit is that it does not get very hot. Once running the Front End the performance for Audio and Nav is fine and the videos I have run ok. The other nice thing is that the BIOS (although not very fast) is quite silent (very few POST messages) and it is also possible to implement your own BIOS boot screen, I have made this the same as my XP Boot and Login screen so the boot up looks quite consistent. I would like to try a core 2 in the future but for now I am happy and would recommend an Intel board.

M2-ATX-HV 160W Intelligent DC-DC PSU, this is what I have and it is excellent.

I would have at least a 7200RPM HDD, I have noticed big differences when trying out a 7200, 5400 and 4200. My start up times are currently around 26 secs (including the M2-ATX 5 sec delay, POST and Windows start). Return from Hibernation is about 20 secs and return from standby 3 secs. I will be investigating the use of SSD in the future.

I will also be experimenting with just 1GB RAM soon to see if that helps Hibernation times.

Front Ends. In my view there are only 2 worth considering. Centrafuse (CF) or Road Runner (RR). There are lots of threads on these so I wont rewrite what has already been said. I am currently using CF, I find a bit more polished and stable than RR although RR can be customised a lot more.

I am currently using a Voom2 Case, It is an ok a case, things get a bit tight in there and I have had to rerun the cables to make it tidier and replace the fans as they were too noisy. The case fits perfectly in my glove box and is very tough. My only concern would be putting in a Core 2 Duo, I think it would get very hot, anyway this is something I will try in the future.

I hope this helps you a little, as I said it is only my opinion on the topic. Keep a look out for my forthcoming posts on my build in the next month.

Sonicxtacy02 · 06-08-2009, 09:07 AM

one recommendation for the Intel BLKDG45FC. I have it and its an amazing board. By far the best mobo i've had in 6 years of doin this

DJMikeT · 06-08-2009, 03:01 PM

Well thanks for the input guys. I was thinking of stripping the components out of my Shuttle XPX and fabricating a custom case for it. This way would really save me a lot on hardware. However I'm concerned with heat issue as it will be mounted in the trunk. I'm currently running the Intel® Core™2 Duo Processor E6320 (4M Cache, 1.86 GHz, 1066 MHz FSB) and it does pretty good. It runs about 39-40 degrees C. I'm still a ways off before I start and I could change my mind before its all said and done.

Bxsteez · 06-08-2009, 04:28 PM

I think using the atom will help with thermal. I think that processor runs a lot cooler than these core 2 duo. Even the extremely low power ones. Its also very inexpensive. They atoms weren't out when i started or else i would've gone with them.

DJMikeT · 06-08-2009, 11:47 PM

Ya,I hear ya and have been reading on the Atom but if I can use my Shuttle and make it work I'd really like to do that. I have 4 PC's sitting around the house and the Shuttle is the least used of them and most practical to use without buying more components. We'll see what happens lol! I'm sure I'll change my mind a million times before its all over from reading installs of others.

Sonicxtacy02 · 06-09-2009, 09:11 AM

i've got an E8400 3.0ghz installed in the trunk and have had no issues. The hottest temp i've seen is 100°F captured just after startup on a 100 degree day. After the CPU fan kicked on it reduced about 12 degrees.

The problem i see with starting with the atom is you have zero room for upgrading without replacing the entire board. Ive got a all the benefits of the atom boards with upgradability should i ever need it.

DJMikeT · 06-09-2009, 01:49 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Sonicxtacy02

i've got an E8400 3.0ghz installed in the trunk and have had no issues. The hottest temp i've seen is 100°F captured just after startup on a 100 degree day. After the CPU fan kicked on it reduced about 12 degrees.

The problem i see with starting with the atom is you have zero room for upgrading without replacing the entire board. Ive got a all the benefits of the atom boards with upgradability should i ever need it.

That is the main reason I rather use desktop type hardware, I'm always upgrading and can't recycle my components through my CarPC. As you have stated. with the Atom you can't upgrade with buying a new board. I've got a great cooling solution also for a more powerful and hotter CPU. I use Coolit Systems products (Boreas MTEC) in my game rig and it's unbelievable the cooling you get. I'm thinking of using the smaller Freezone Elite for the CarPC.

http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.p...&id=3&Itemid=5

It's about $400.00 retail but I know a guy directly there and could probably get a better deal. I've already spent over 2k with them and send them business regularly. A great company and they have their S*** together when it comes to cooling.

DJMikeT · 06-09-2009, 10:51 PM

Ok, I've started working on my Amp Rack, now keep in mind this is the very first stages and a lot of work is still to be done but I thought I would post pictures of my fabrication idea and as it develops.

The idea is keep trunk space loss to a minimum and have Amps out of the way and not a bunch of wires strung everywhere.

The Trunk Now:

The Materials for initial start:

The hidden cable idea came from here:

and

Going to accomplish by running cables through these tubes:

Going to look something like this:

Rear tube mounting bracket:

That's all I have for now it got dark on me and I hate working under a light with tons of mosquitoes. The amp mounting board will actually only hang
down a little over 3'' beneath the black center piece you see in the picture.
The black thing actually houses the factory sub and even if I were to remove it I still couldn't utilize that space because there are moving bars in that area
when the trunk opens and closes. Why Honda designed it that way is beyond me.

I'm going to use a Forstner bit to counter sink the Tee's you see in the material picture. I'll post pictures as I go, its kinda of hard to explain what I'm seeing in my head.

I still have a lot of fiberglass work to do to it also. I just set the board in the trunk to get some measurement and snap a few pictures.

Hope you guys enjoy my idea.

Bxsteez · 06-09-2009, 11:02 PM

I think i'm following what you are doing here. Not a bad idea. Can't wait to see the finished product.

DJMikeT · 06-09-2009, 11:03 PM

I'll keep posting pictures so you can follow along. Always eager to help.

DJMikeT · 06-10-2009, 01:20 AM

OK, a little update. I couldn't quit thinking about the tubes not being level, it was just bugging the hell out of me. Yes, I'm anal about detail! Not that it would have looked bad being slightly off and it won't be seen most of the time, but every time I pop the trunk I'd know I didn't go 100%. So I'm fabricating a shim or so that I can get the tubes perfectly straight.

Off level tubes!

Prep and molding shim:

Tomorrow I'll get some glass and filler and get it just right and post more pictures.

DJMikeT · 06-11-2009, 03:38 AM

OK, I've got my shims fabricated and now my posts are level which makes me happy

Leveling Shims:

Result:

Hopefully by tomorrow I can have a ruff install of the mounting board.

DJMikeT · 06-13-2009, 04:18 AM

OK, I've got new pictures on my project. Step by step!

First of all the back mounting bracket which is just an outdoor light switch cover needed to be reinforced, so I filled the hole with epoxy and put some a layer of glass and then filler.

Next I did my layout for the drop down tube supports.

Then secured the couplings with epoxy. I'm going to do the finishing work later and needed to mount them so I could get measurements for the board.

Then I mounted them in the trunk, along with the front ones

I was then able to support my board using a brick and some boards like in the earlier picture. I made my measurements and marks and drilled my recess holes.

Now I needed to get my bottom pieces fabricated so that I could attach and detach the whole board easily without removing all my other fabricated hardware.

I added a little epoxy for a base filler.

Then I filled the remainer with Duraglass, sanded smooth and found my center.

I drilled a small pilot hole and then used a 5/16 tap set to thread the fasterner.

Initially I thought just threading the filled fasterners would be strong enough but as it turned out I needed to add a nut on the opposite end of each for the added strength.

Now I can easily remove the whole board if need by unfastening 4 screws instead of removing
all the drop down hardware.

Here it is test mounted with some wires ran through. I still haven't full secured it yet, as I still have a couple things to do.