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03-23-2004, 11:29 AM
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#46
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Raw Wave
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Nashville
Vehicle: $800 1995 Plymouth Neon
Posts: 2,649
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so, where might I get some DDR that can operate in these temperatures?
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03-23-2004, 11:31 AM
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#47
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FLAC
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Vehicle: 1993 VW Passat, 2006 VW Passat
Posts: 1,697
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Quote: Originally Posted by Mr.Sinister
Without some form of active refrigeration, you CANNOT EVER get a watercooling setup to go below ambient. Hell, it's physically impossible! The only problem with active refrigeration (i.e. Peltiers, and phase change cooling) is that it draws a LOT of power, making it impractical for automotive use (especially with the ignition off).
At any rate, when I suggested water cooling, my idea was so that that heat exchanger was placed OUTSIDE the vehicle. So, instead of cutting an air duct 3" or 4" wide, you'd only need to cut two holes to pass tubing with an OD of 5/8" (15.875mm for those of you on the metric system) or smaller. Ideally, you would run solid metal tubing to the exchanger, and bolt the metal tubing (and the heat exchanger) to a metal part of the car's underbody. If you do it correctly, the entire vehicle could become a huge heatsink, along with the radiator/heat exchanger. Of course the downside to this is that the opposite effect from what you're looking for could happen, and instead of cooling the water, it'd boil it.  Also, one other reason you'd want to use metal tubing when possible in the loop is that vinyl tubing wouldn't last long in heated conditions. Some tubing (Tygon for example) is only rated to work up to 140F. After that, it starts breaking down.
*TECHNICALLY*, a WC loop WILL WORK without a pump. It just won't be as good moving the heat from one side to the other. Through convection, the heat in the water will move from one side to the other on its own. The only thing is, depending on the amount of water in the loop, it'll take some time to do it.
At any rate, I mentioned WC because Wizard was asking for any and all suggestions. I agree that air cooling is the easiest method of PC cooling. Once you WC though, you find it hard to go back to air. 
Actually, evaporative water cooling will get you sub ambient, but driving around with a big cooling stack sticking out of the trunk might get some funny looks  .
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03-23-2004, 11:34 AM
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#48
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FLAC
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Vehicle: 1993 VW Passat, 2006 VW Passat
Posts: 1,697
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Quote: Originally Posted by wizardPC
so, where might I get some DDR that can operate in these temperatures?
What brand are you running now? Othr than the loose dimm slot on my epia killing about a stick a year, the crucial pc2100 i use holds up to the midwest temperatures (-10 to 110) without a hiccup. Also, what are the other bits you're running? IE hdd, psu, etc (as a 7200rpm hdd can run at 100F+ with a 70F ambient, etc etc etc).
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03-23-2004, 11:38 AM
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#49
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Vehicle: '04 Pontiac Sunfire
Posts: 326
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5$ to the first person who uses the AC to liquid cool their computer... it can't be that hard.
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03-23-2004, 11:39 AM
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#50
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FLAC
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Vehicle: 1993 VW Passat, 2006 VW Passat
Posts: 1,697
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Quote: Originally Posted by Cherub211
5$ to the first person who uses the AC to liquid cool their computer... it can't be that hard.
You mean freeon? or r134a (damn corporations)? When you're going to be sarcastic, you need a funny face 
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03-23-2004, 11:43 AM
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#51
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Confusion Master
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: If you go down to the woods today, You're sure of
Vehicle: 1997 BMW E36 328I
Posts: 9,899
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Quote: Originally Posted by MP3DUB
When you're going to be sarcastic, you need a funny face 
When you have a funny face, it's best not to be sarcastic. 
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03-23-2004, 06:07 PM
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#52
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Raw Wave
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Nashville
Vehicle: $800 1995 Plymouth Neon
Posts: 2,649
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I think the RAM I have is DDR333 Micron, but i cant remember. I underclocked it.
The HDD is a toshiba 2.5" low RPM (4500 RPM I think, came outta my laptop) Its in a morex 3688 case.
__________________
Debt as of 1/1/05: $34,354.48
Debt as of July 4, 2007: $0.00 explanation
Total spent on wedding so far: $3885.79
Thanks to everyone for your support.
I'M DEBT FREE!!
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03-24-2004, 02:35 AM
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#53
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 189
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Quote: Originally Posted by wizardPC
I think the RAM I have is DDR333 Micron, but i cant remember. I underclocked it.
The HDD is a toshiba 2.5" low RPM (4500 RPM I think, came outta my laptop) Its in a morex 3688 case.
Are you using the MSI 6215 BookPC as your carPC ? I used to have lots of problems with it hanging when the ambient temp went up to 50C. I tried all kinds of stuff - better HSF for the CPU, adding a cooler to the Northbridge and Southbridge, heating individual components on the motherboard with a hairdryer to see which one was heat-sensitive etc. In the end, I sold the BookPC and got a mATX board as the damn thing was heat-sensitive everywhere !
Edit: Oops - I just re-read the thread and realized that you have a VIA.
Last edited by shchua : 03-24-2004 at 02:43 AM.
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03-24-2004, 11:00 AM
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#54
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Raw Wave
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Nashville
Vehicle: $800 1995 Plymouth Neon
Posts: 2,649
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I had a bookpc in there, but now I've got an M10000.
I cant remember having these problems with my bookpc, but that was a while ago
__________________
Debt as of 1/1/05: $34,354.48
Debt as of July 4, 2007: $0.00 explanation
Total spent on wedding so far: $3885.79
Thanks to everyone for your support.
I'M DEBT FREE!!
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03-24-2004, 02:23 PM
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#55
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FLAC
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Vehicle: 1993 VW Passat, 2006 VW Passat
Posts: 1,697
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Hmm, going back to your first post, 90F really isnt all that hot. Whats the cpu core temp when the case is 90F? And is that 90F from a temp probe? or the onboard temp diode? Or simply the temp in the car? I have systems which I'm happy when the case temp is only 100F. And shchua had a really good suggestion, try to isolate the problem with a hairdryer/heat gun. And as odd as it might sound, have you tried running the system with the case top off?
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03-29-2004, 11:44 PM
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#56
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Vehicle: Acura RSX-S
Posts: 38
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Quote: Originally Posted by MP3DUB
Actually, evaporative water cooling will get you sub ambient, but driving around with a big cooling stack sticking out of the trunk might get some funny looks  .
You mean a bong cooler? heheh. Yeah, that'd be a riot sticking out the back end of a car. I can see it now..
ME: What's that problem officer?
OFFICER: What's with the doo-hicky hanging out of your trunk?
ME: Wha..?
OFFICER: You know, that contraption with the water vapor coming out of the top of it.
ME: Oh THAT! It's just my bong.
OFFICER: Oh REALLY... Please step out of the vehicle. While your at it, keep your hands where I can see them.
I can see how you could get lower than ambient temps with it, but it's impractial (except for the die-hard overclockers out there).
On that note, you've seen the new Zalman Reservator? Looks interesting. It'd have been better if they made it hollow though (instead of a tube with fins, make it a RING with fins on the outside and the inside).
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03-30-2004, 06:17 AM
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#57
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 10
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03-30-2004, 08:49 AM
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#58
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Raw Wave
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Nashville
Vehicle: $800 1995 Plymouth Neon
Posts: 2,649
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jeezus, that thing draws 4.4A!
and, the hot side gets to be 156F while the cold side is at 50F. Without ventilation, that ain't gonna work
__________________
Debt as of 1/1/05: $34,354.48
Debt as of July 4, 2007: $0.00 explanation
Total spent on wedding so far: $3885.79
Thanks to everyone for your support.
I'M DEBT FREE!!
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03-31-2004, 11:02 PM
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#59
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Vehicle: Acura RSX-S
Posts: 38
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AHEM!!
... and you guys thought I was nutz for suggesting water cooling.
I present to you somebody who's done it:
http://www.overclockers.com/tips1144/
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03-31-2004, 11:45 PM
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#60
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Williamsport, PA
Vehicle: 1996 Jeep Cherokee Classic
Posts: 353
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Quote: Originally Posted by Mr.Sinister
Yes! It wouldn't work too bad if you had a good place to mount the radiator. That is the first problem to get over.
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