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09-04-2006, 10:18 PM
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#106
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 443
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For those of you who have a "hands free setupt" in your car for your phone, or voice activation, where did you put your mic? im considering hiding mine in my drivers sunvisor, so if i get a call i can just tilt it down a little bit and it will point right at me. i have to be able to get good reception at the mic because my car is very loud... ( 3 inch true dual w/ x pipe and "flowmaster style" mufflers. i plan on some insulation for sound soon, but not yet. anyone else have any input.
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Car Pc progress meter:
[-----------------85%---] Looking good! Total spent : $740, Thats including two touch screens!!!
"The car is the closest we will ever come to creating something that is truly alive" -Sir William Lyons
My worklog
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09-05-2006, 07:11 AM
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#107
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FLAC
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hou. TX
Posts: 1,458
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Just an update, I had a talk with "narandomsortofw" about the temperature cables. He took it apart and the sheath was actually divided down the middle to keep the 2 cables from rubbing against one another. This is a bit different than what I thought. I ordered a cable from the dealer and should get it in a few days. I'll post up some pictures and I'll try and find an easy and reliable way to extend it.
Last edited by JasonWW; 09-05-2006 at 07:50 PM.
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09-16-2006, 11:40 PM
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#108
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 183
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Here is my progress on my 01 SS. I took a 7" Xenarc and molded it into the dash. I also relocated the ASR and Foglight switches. I'm still using the stock monsoon system (sounds awsome for all those haters  ).
To keep the stock deck I simply bent back the tab jiggers that originally mounted the deck to the stock location. Then I took it turned it backwards and stuck it back in. Stuck some velcro in to hold it in place and it works awsome. The stock radio bezel fit on without modifing it any further than needed to mount the touchscreen.
I took the spare tire and jack out and mounted my laptop where these items were. With some foam padding and all that happy stuff.
I hope this info inspires some of you other guys. I know those before me certainly inspired me!
Touchscreen
Touchscreen again
(yes there is a gap between the bezel and the touchscreen, I was just making sure everything was going to fit and there was enough room behind the touchscreen housing.)
Frontal
Relocated Switches
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09-17-2006, 01:32 AM
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#109
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FLAC
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hou. TX
Posts: 1,458
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Scotty562, did you know there is a switchplate that should hold your 2 switches? I modified one to hold 2 switches in my TA. The camaro console should use the same size hole there I believe. You need to get a switchplate for a TA convertible with traction control. The mounts that hold the switches can be cut down a little and the new switches held in place while you glue them in. Superglue and Goop work well. The only thing you might have to do is paint the panel the right color, although you may be able to buy it in the right color.
Here's my switch plate. (I use it for the traction control and the electric cutout)
So are you not carrying a spare tire?
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09-17-2006, 10:57 AM
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#110
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 183
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Quote: Originally Posted by JasonWW 
Scotty562, did you know there is a switchplate that should hold your 2 switches?
If there is a specific plate for this purpose I didn't know it existed. On the Camaro's, these switches are in a horrizonal row along the top of the stock radio. I simply cut out the housing for two of the switches and put them where they are in that last picture I posted. They arn't painted yet, but you get the idea.
You can get somewhat of an idea from this picture. There BARELY enough room to mash the two little housing units inside the sunglass holder or whatever the heck that thing was.
Back of switches
Quote: Originally Posted by JasonWW 
Here's my switch plate. (I use it for the traction control and the electric cutout)
Those switches look great man, great job.
Quote: Originally Posted by JasonWW 
So are you not carrying a spare tire?
 *Knocks on wood*
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09-18-2006, 02:50 AM
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#111
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FLAC
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hou. TX
Posts: 1,458
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The TA switch plate should pop into that hole after you remove the little pocket thing. Your switches may not pop in perfectly, but the holes at least are already molded, it's textured and they look nice. Here are some pics. I added a molex connector so I could remove the whole thing. You can see where I soldered the cutout connectors to the convertible switch as well as added an inline fuse.
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09-19-2006, 10:09 AM
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#112
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FLAC
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hou. TX
Posts: 1,458
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OK, after some ordering difficulty I finally got the climate control cable in. I promptly took it apart and snapped photos. The part number is #10418042 and it is about 20 bucks from GM Parts Direct.
There is a small end that attaches to the knob and a big end that goes under the dash on the passenger side. Just drop the plastic foot panel under the dash and follow the cable. It is held on with on screw.
The sheath holds one long cable that has the ends crimped with lugs on the big end and a crimp in the center so the knob can grab it. The whole cable is under tension from the spring on the big end. The sheath is also divided in two to keep the 2 cables from rubbing against one another. I doubt that makes any difference and a single large holes should work just as well. How much rubbing do they actually see anyway?
I think I have a good plan of attack to lengthen this cable as my old idea won't work. I'll leave that for the end.
Here is the back of the controls.
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09-19-2006, 10:10 AM
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#113
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FLAC
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hou. TX
Posts: 1,458
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Last edited by JasonWW; 09-19-2006 at 09:19 PM.
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09-19-2006, 10:11 AM
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#114
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FLAC
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hou. TX
Posts: 1,458
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Last edited by JasonWW; 09-19-2006 at 09:18 PM.
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09-19-2006, 10:11 AM
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#115
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FLAC
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hou. TX
Posts: 1,458
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09-19-2006, 10:26 AM
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#116
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FLAC
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hou. TX
Posts: 1,458
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The key to this design is that the cables are under a lot of tension from the spring plus you don't really need a dual hole sheath to keep them seperated. I think I can cut the sheath (already done) and add a length of bicycle cable sheath in the middle. Get both outer diameters roughly the same size and slip a 4" or so length of copper tubing over the joints and then crimp (or maybe glue) them into place. The sheaths will be pulled together anyway from the cable tension and the tubing will help keep everything lined up and prevent kinks at the joints.
The actual cable can be bought at a local hardware store. Just need a good legnth of stainless cable and some tough, small crimps. I'll crimp the midde first and then run the ends through. then cut to length, get the knob centered and then crimp the ends and add the spring. In theory it should work.
Last edited by JasonWW; 09-19-2006 at 10:31 AM.
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09-20-2006, 10:51 PM
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#117
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 59
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Well everything in the pictures you have is what I tried to describe (because i'm lame and don't take many pictures), but hopefully it works out.
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I got a mind like a steel Trap!
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09-21-2006, 12:54 PM
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#118
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FLAC
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hou. TX
Posts: 1,458
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Quote: Originally Posted by narandomsortofw 
Well everything in the pictures you have is what I tried to describe (because i'm lame and don't take many pictures), but hopefully it works out.
I still can't figure out if you popped the smaller disc out so the whole cable can be replaced or if you left it in place and just extended the stock cables.
Is www.push-pull.com completely replacing your wire cable? If so they must be popping that small disc out. What exactly did they say they can make? Are they lengthening the sheath or did you already take care of that? Are they just making a new wire and hooking it all up under tension so you can just install it and forget about it?
Are you sure you don't want to try my idea first? I think the center crimp won't see much force so a simple steel or hard metal crimp should do. The ends are going to see more tension due to the spring (I think the factory used more tension than needed. That air flap moves easily) so I think I will add solder to the crimps and cable to give it extra strength.
As far as DVD players go, I don't have one in the car. I'll put a slimline in eventually, probably in the glove box. I pretty much listen to my music from the HDD. I'm getting a little bored with my old stuff, so I'll stick a XM unit in there soon.
The climate controls will fit in the center console along with my radio-faceplate-sized Alpine controller. I think it will work out well. Plus it will keep the passenger hands off the AC knob.
Last edited by JasonWW; 09-21-2006 at 01:00 PM.
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09-21-2006, 05:26 PM
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#119
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 59
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The way I originally did it was similar to your idea. Yours is much more planned out though. I called the guys at push-pull.com and they said they would let me know what they could. So, I am just going to send it to them and let them have at it. If it works....yay. If not....well I will figure something out. I my screen installed now and my the rest of HVAC is in my center console. It took a good amount of time crimping all those wires for the HVAC, but it all works. I will post pictures soon. I still need a motherboard, hdd, and power supply and I should good.
I want to see how you get the tension on the cable. I am curious on how you'll do it.
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I got a mind like a steel Trap!
Last edited by narandomsortofw; 09-21-2006 at 05:28 PM.
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09-21-2006, 05:41 PM
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#120
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Laptop, Tablets, UMPC Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NY
Posts: 5,974
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that cable setup is very similar to how some window lift motors are setup & got me to thinking... anyone consider instead of relocating & extending, switching over to motorized? yeah, I guess that can open up a whole other set of possibilities & headaches maybe too, but there could be a lot of possibilities with that I would think.... just thinking out loud
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