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Old 08-21-2002, 06:36 PM   #16
ddt
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thanks for the welcome!

I have no idea where the ferret lives. Just something I have on my laptop for god knows what reason.
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Old 08-23-2002, 09:33 PM   #17
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Stick with the GPS16. It works great and gets excellent reception. My GPS35 (an earlier version of the 16 with a few less features) gets good GPS locks from inside my metal trunk, although now I keep it inside my rear window brake light. It goes through the plastic of the brake light just fine. It's also ruggedized for outdoor mounting, if you want that.
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Player: Celeron II 633MHz, 256MB RAM, 20GB IBM 9mm 2.5" Laptop HD (180G/2ms), onboard ethernet/sound/video/tvout, 10"11"x3" case, MPBS1 70W DC-DC PS w/auto-shutdown controller, in-dash lighted switches, 7" NTSC TFT widescreen in-dash LCD, touchscreen, rear-window brake light installed Garmin GPS35 GPS, credit card sized IR remote w/IRMan, mini-wireless keyboard/mouse (sits under seat), PowerMate black knob, MP3s and GPS Navigation (Winamp, CoPilot, SA8.0).
Car: 1993 Nissan Maxima, Black Emerald
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Old 08-23-2002, 10:21 PM   #18
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jshrieve

hey, does this look right at least pricewise? I don't want to pay too much.. I know I'm a stingy bastard... but daddy needs a new hard drive

Guess I should post the link(s)

http://www.gps4fun.com/gar_gps16.html
or
http://www.navtechgps.com/supply/gps16.asp
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Old 08-23-2002, 10:33 PM   #19
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The Navtech price looks good/normal.

$150 if you want to wire it yourself. Make sure to get the high voltage version (HVS).

$177 if you want them to wire the serial connector for you. If you already have a soldering iron, it's probably cheaper to wire the connector yourself, but I'd probably pay the extra just to save the trouble.

Part #6206-H-T $177.00


I prefer the cigarette lighter to the ps2 one, because then I can wire it to the ACC line of the car, and the GPS is locked and maintaing a lock anytime the car is on, rather than just when the computer is on.

The PS2 isn't that bad though, cause the GPS will usually lock before your computer is finished booting up.


One thing you might want to think about is if you care about the GPS having power when the key is removed but the computer is still on. In my setup, the computer can be on for up to 10 minutes after my key is removed. But the GPS is hooked up to the ACC line, so it loses power when I remove the key. This means that sometimes I have to restart the CoPilot software to make it see the GPS again.. not a big deal to me. If I cared enough I could wire the GPS to the autshutdown controller's relay switched source. So anytime the computer had power the car did.

But I like to stay away from things plugged into the back of the computer. I already have enough things plugged in there.

Also, PS2 source puts the drain on your computer's power supply. A very minor drain, but one you might want to avoid if you're going DC/DC PS.
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Player: Celeron II 633MHz, 256MB RAM, 20GB IBM 9mm 2.5" Laptop HD (180G/2ms), onboard ethernet/sound/video/tvout, 10"11"x3" case, MPBS1 70W DC-DC PS w/auto-shutdown controller, in-dash lighted switches, 7" NTSC TFT widescreen in-dash LCD, touchscreen, rear-window brake light installed Garmin GPS35 GPS, credit card sized IR remote w/IRMan, mini-wireless keyboard/mouse (sits under seat), PowerMate black knob, MP3s and GPS Navigation (Winamp, CoPilot, SA8.0).
Car: 1993 Nissan Maxima, Black Emerald
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Old 08-24-2002, 01:23 AM   #20
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you have any pics of your setup jshreive? I'd like to see 'em if you do.
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Old 08-24-2002, 02:27 AM   #21
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I don't have many. My setup isn't very impressive visually, 'cause I suck at the physical construction stuff. Or at least aesthetically pleasing physical construction.

I use a mount which goes on my dash, and the screen is detachable from the mount. When the screen is on it looks like this:
http://vmdaemon.org/bi/medium/Temporary/display.jpg

The extra wire you see is my radar detector, not the display. I can remove the display in about 3 seconds and tuck it under my seat if I'm parking in a not so nice neighborhood. In that case, it looks like someone stole my radio. I can also turn off the screen if it's too bright at night or something..

Here's something taken during a trip, with CoPilot logging the route (not providing directions). The number in the lower right is the system temp.
http://vmdaemon.org/bi/medium/Tempor...navigation.jpg

Here's what the car comp looks like without the case or power supply. I use a DC/DC powersupply that Jeff Mucha built for me. Also the autoshutdown controller I asked him to make for me..
http://vmdaemon.org/bi/medium/Temporary/mp3max-nops.jpg

Shot of the outside back of the vehicle, with the LCD screen somewhat visible through the rear window:
http://www.lumiere.net/~j/car_road_comp_rear.jpg

Too much tech toys, good lcd shot:
http://www.lumiere.net/~j/techexcess.jpg
(LCD, laptop, radar detector, two digital cameras, misc other stuff..)

If someone is interested, I can take a pic of the whole thing in my trunk, though it's not very fancy. At one point I had a fancy shelf built and the computer sat on that, but eventually I ditched it and just slapped some velcro on the bottom of the computer. It grips the carpet lining of the trunk. Sits in the back left corner.


P.S. for those curious about other pictureson my site, unfortunately my gallery software is broken atm =P
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Player: Celeron II 633MHz, 256MB RAM, 20GB IBM 9mm 2.5" Laptop HD (180G/2ms), onboard ethernet/sound/video/tvout, 10"11"x3" case, MPBS1 70W DC-DC PS w/auto-shutdown controller, in-dash lighted switches, 7" NTSC TFT widescreen in-dash LCD, touchscreen, rear-window brake light installed Garmin GPS35 GPS, credit card sized IR remote w/IRMan, mini-wireless keyboard/mouse (sits under seat), PowerMate black knob, MP3s and GPS Navigation (Winamp, CoPilot, SA8.0).
Car: 1993 Nissan Maxima, Black Emerald
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Old 08-24-2002, 02:29 AM   #22
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Oh yeah. The keyboard sits under the passenger side seat usually, but is a small white wireless keyboard, with integrated mouse. Infrared.

95% of the stuff I control via an 18 button IR remote, though.

The GPS isn't visible as its inside the rear brake light casing. Just looks like a regular rear brake light, except it has one extra wire going to it.
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Player: Celeron II 633MHz, 256MB RAM, 20GB IBM 9mm 2.5" Laptop HD (180G/2ms), onboard ethernet/sound/video/tvout, 10"11"x3" case, MPBS1 70W DC-DC PS w/auto-shutdown controller, in-dash lighted switches, 7" NTSC TFT widescreen in-dash LCD, touchscreen, rear-window brake light installed Garmin GPS35 GPS, credit card sized IR remote w/IRMan, mini-wireless keyboard/mouse (sits under seat), PowerMate black knob, MP3s and GPS Navigation (Winamp, CoPilot, SA8.0).
Car: 1993 Nissan Maxima, Black Emerald
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Old 09-01-2002, 02:57 AM   #23
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nice setup!
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Old 10-06-2002, 02:48 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by jshrieve
The Navtech price looks good/normal.

$150 if you want to wire it yourself. Make sure to get the high voltage version (HVS).

$177 if you want them to wire the serial connector for you. If you already have a soldering iron, it's probably cheaper to wire the connector yourself, but I'd probably pay the extra just to save the trouble.

Part #6206-H-T $177.00



I noticed that navtech's price went up for the GarminGPS16. I'm really glad that I got mine before the price hike.
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