Schematics/Pin Outs/Diagrams - Page 3

guruj · 01-07-2006, 04:10 AM

Hi guys try this website out, has lots and lots of connectors.
Let me know what you guys think.

http://pinouts.ru/cgi-bin/list_conn.cgi

Cheers
Guruj

JimmyFitz · 01-17-2006, 02:07 AM

This circuit will bypass the ignition switch signal in order to keep an M1-ATX on after the key is turned off. The push button and LED are mounted on the dash. To keep the PC on during a quick stop, I push the button before turning off the key. The LED lights up to indicate the Latched on state. The system will automatically reset to normal (unlatched) the next time the key is turned on. The circuit will also unlatch if the PC turns off for any reason (low battery, software shutdown, PC power switch, etc.) This circuit has been tested with M1-ATX, but should work for other SDC's with ignition control signal.

CalifSLK · 01-20-2006, 11:45 PM

Since the Mute line in a car may be already used, adding a Handsfree Kit or other device with a Mute line needed some "glue" logic.

Common Car Mute line function is active low, a 74HCT08 2-Input AND Gate is used so any low input will cause a low output to the radio. A 7805 5V regulator is used to power the logic gate. Pull up resistors are added to keep the input/output stable preventing any unwanted mute condition caused by drifting line levels. If more than 1 Mute line needs to be added, a 74HCT11 3-Input AND Gate can be used instead.

BriansNSane · 02-05-2006, 01:36 PM

I'm looking for the pinout of a 2003 ford cd-6(indash 6-disc changer) 20 pin cd changer.I'm trying to get aux input out of it!Ive looked and looked and If anyone could help me it would be appreciated!

i3igmind · 02-08-2006, 03:26 PM

Regarding the carPC Turn On / Shutdown Controller i ve one questions?
1) What if i don't have COM port ? can i use USB or Parallel port?

jospfh · 02-27-2006, 03:17 PM

Simple car battery tester

Link: Simple car battery tester

antonio_riq · 04-01-2006, 05:15 AM

For anyone looking for any kind of connection description forward this link. Is the most complete and easy to understand Connector description (graphic & text) I have found.

http://www.hardwarebook.net/connector/

IN ENGLISH

tj!2k4 · 04-01-2006, 08:24 AM

Thanks

tj!2k4 · 04-01-2006, 08:39 AM

PS2 Port Pinouts

antonio_riq · 04-03-2006, 06:43 AM

Sorry, I've wrote the wrong link. The right link in English is:

http://www.hardwarebook.net/connector/

I've allready corrected in my message.

Hope this link helps anyone seeking for any kind of connectors!!

W3bMa5t3r · 05-22-2006, 07:05 AM

Since it was brought up elsewhere, I figured I'd post it in here as well since this is an appropriate section.

If you need to drop 12vdc down to say 6vdc or 8vdc for external devices (hubs, tv tuners, etc), you can use the calculator -HERE- to figure the resistors needed to drop the voltage. It will even show you the circuit to build. This is a voltage divider circuit.

jcdillin · 05-22-2006, 07:39 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by W3bMa5t3r

Since it was brought up elsewhere, I figured I'd post it in here as well since this is an appropriate section.

If you need to drop 12vdc down to say 6vdc or 8vdc for external devices (hubs, tv tuners, etc), you can use the calculator -HERE- to figure the resistors needed to drop the voltage. It will even show you the circuit to build. This is a voltage divider circuit.

Just a warning, dont try to use this circuit with high amperage items, unless you are prepared to get rid of some serious heat and buy some monster heatsinked resistors. Some of these USB hubs and such draw upwards of 2.5A which to put through a resistor is some serious wattage. In those cases you have to go with a switching power supply, or even a high amperage linear chip.

W3bMa5t3r · 05-22-2006, 09:44 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jcdillin

Just a warning, dont try to use this circuit with high amperage items, unless you are prepared to get rid of some serious heat and buy some monster heatsinked resistors. Some of these USB hubs and such draw upwards of 2.5A which to put through a resistor is some serious wattage. In those cases you have to go with a switching power supply, or even a high amperage linear chip.

lol good point. I was only thinking of dropping the voltage, not really the overall outcome from doing so... I guess this is good for the low current apps, but not for the hubs, etc like you said. I think my hub's pull is ~1.75A.

Tidder · 07-19-2006, 12:49 PM

Hey, here is a diagram of my inverter/PC power-on/shutdown control.

It's a pretty big picture, but the file size is small. Less than 50k.

http://www.dynamic-i.com/carpc/inver...-controlle.gif

Here's a smaller version.

Quickly-found link to cube timer:
Here's one for $20. http://www.weisd.com/store2/NATQ4F-00010-326.html

W3bMa5t3r · 08-06-2006, 11:34 AM

Ok well I searched ALLL over and though I'm sure I read about it somewhere I couldn't find it, so I have decided to post what I found along with a diagram of what I found. :-)

This is for a Dell Latitude D800 Laptop Power Supply Brick (and I'm 'assuming' all the other laptops that this brick and similar support).

Basically there are 3 wires coming from the brick to the laptop. It was easy enough to figure out the +19.5vdc and the GND, but the third wire... wasn't sure if it was needed and if all hell would break loose if not connected or whatever...

So... here's the diagram

The Power Supply Type Wire IS NOT NEEDED, but when you power on the laptop, the BIOS will say that it can't tell what power supply is connected. Just say you know and you don't want to be bothered by the prompts again. You're golden ;-) Hope this helps.

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