Project NiteVision - NiteMax + HUD + carputer - Page 23

Silentbob343 · 06-15-2006, 03:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by shotgunefx

Cool on the pot, I was wondering what that was for. BTW, with ALC, you short it to ground IIRC, not put a + voltage to it, maybe that's why?

When the ALC pin was bent (crushed) against the zoom pin, and I zoomed, it worked just like you'd want it to. The glaring ball of light just disappeared and the light fixture itself was easily visible. So they're is something in there at least that's workable.

That type of software solution seems like it would take a quick processor.

Genesisfactor · 06-15-2006, 03:08 PM

that's right, most of us are running Epias and low voltage stuff (Rockin the P4-mobile

!)...it may not be able to take that with video processing, rendering and then all the other goodies we want...

wait, who are you talking to?

anyways, in that case, i'm not sure, i know of nothing else to isolate the bright spots without taking out the entire image

NiteMax Mark · 06-15-2006, 03:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by shotgunefx

Cool on the pot, I was wondering what that was for. BTW, with ALC, you short it to ground IIRC, not put a + voltage to it, maybe that's why?

You are correct about the pot being for the auto-iris sensitivity. There's two different types of auto-itis outputs. The one output is for "video" auto iris and I know the pot adjusts this output for sure. (Video iris is where the lens itself is smart enough to look at the video signal and decide how much to compensate.) The pot adjusts the amount of amplification applied to the video signal sent to the lens.

The feature inputs are digital and go directly to the DSP chip. They're pulled high with a pull-up resistor and you need to ground them externally to activate the feature.

Quote: Originally Posted by spaceskater

Update: I've been playing around with all possible futures of the CCD. Unfortunately the ALC has none to negative effect on the image. Basically with the auto-iris lens in operation the ALC has NO effect what so ever, in any lighting conditions. Without the auto-iris lens only when there is a lot of light in the whole image pressing the ALC will saturate the image. It looks like it deactivates the Automatic Level Control. If there is average to low lighting conditions again activating the ALC has NO effect on the output.

The ALC feature shortens the integration time (exposure time) of the CCD in bright conditions. When there's not a ton of light, the ALC function does nothing. With an auto-iris lens, your lens is making sure the amount of light entering the CCD is always moderate and therefore ALC shouldn't ever kick in.

Quote: Originally Posted by Genesisfactor

yeah, the nitemax has an automatic light control, so i would assume it had something like an autoiris...

Honestly, i'm still trying to figure out why autoiris is needed. Maybe its somethig i haven't observed yet. Maybe tonight or tomorrow night i'll have the thing in my car to see and play with. I'll record the drive.

I mean, if its the lights and stuff on a dark road, i think a software solution would be in order more than a hardware solution as a software solution could dim only the bright spots using a filter (Gaussian maybe? We breifly went over it in the computer vision section in robotics) while a hardware will dim the entire image.

A software solution doesn't know when the hardware is saturated and therefore the output has very poor dynamic range. With an auto-iris you're keeping the CCD sensor right in the operating range where it can capture the greatest detail. If you're shooting a Polar Bear in a snowstorm, your software solution won't be able to restore the detail lost by a saturated CCD.

The ALC of the CCD versus the auto-iris is a valid argument. I think they both do a similar job of keeping the image within a usable range. But...

Remember how a small aperature (like a pin-hole) eliminates the need to focus? This increases the depth-of-field because everything is in focus from up close to the horizon.

If nothing else, the auto-iris will provide a small aperature during daylight hours and provide a well focused image without regard to how far away objects are. At night, the auto-iris will cause a large aperature. This will capture more light and improve sensitivity too. However, the price you pay is less depth-of-field. Since up-close objects will be the only thing illuminated at night, the need for good fucus from up-close to the horizon is minimal -- you only need good focus up close. With the auto-iris, you get these good focus characteristics you want. The ALC alone can't do this!

shotgunefx · 06-15-2006, 03:26 PM

Here's that vid I was promising.

6.5MB Divx Front cam with Iris

Here's a cap that illustrates the problem with software...

When the signal is clamped, no amount of filtering I don't think will be able to get anything usuable out of a wash. Though even if you could buy looking at multiple frames, etc, would be slow.

spaceskater, got an idea. If nothing else pans out, we could use a photoresistor and a resistor as a voltage divider to adjust the camera automatically between night and streetlight/daylight.

On the lens,. I'm probably going to buy a 2.8mm monofocal autoiris, I like the view better with the wider angle.

update
Also it was misting slightly when I took those pics, that may make the light problem worse. Also, note how the light halos are taller than wider unlike the previous video.

Genesisfactor · 06-15-2006, 03:54 PM

looks like my firend and i are going for a drive tonight...

Genesisfactor · 06-16-2006, 03:32 AM

Slightly ****ed. I' going to have to see if this was a spoftware mlfunction or a settings thing. I only got 30 seconds of video of the 5 minute recording i was supposed to get. I'll upload it later or if my dad comes home, i'll have him take me out again.

**Edit*** screw it, i didn't even sleep tonight.

Anyways, i see what you're saying, but maybe it doens't affect the B/W cameras as much. It was interesting, because on the darker roads and the main street, it did well, and then as time went on, it started to do what it did for you.

Genesisfactor · 06-18-2006, 03:38 PM

http://www.thatvideosite.com/view/2452.html

other than getting clearer, it can't get any cooler.

Yevmeister · 07-14-2006, 08:55 PM

i know a guy strough a frinds he works for da-lite, i asked him for a sample, he told me he will see what he can do.

I am exited, maybe we can complete this thing

Yev

Yevmeister · 07-14-2006, 08:59 PM

one more thing, i accidentally caught pimp my ride episode where the guys insatlled a projector unit, in the car, and flip down plexi screen covered with holographic screen

looks like it's a jackpot

Yev

shotgunefx · 07-14-2006, 10:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Genesisfactor

http://www.thatvideosite.com/view/2452.html

other than getting clearer, it can't get any cooler.

It's pretty cool, but isn't it projecting onto fan-blown fabric strands? Think that might bug your eyes.

On the plus side, minature solid state cell phone based video projectors are just around the corner so there are definitely helpful things on the way.

Yevmeister · 07-17-2006, 04:08 PM

http://www.holodisplays.com/pages/holomirage.html

i found this seller also, i contacted them, and sent me 6x9 inch samples of each product for free, i figured 6x9 is plenty i will do some recordings once i get it

shotgunefx · 07-17-2006, 05:59 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Yevmeister

http://www.holodisplays.com/pages/holomirage.html

i found this seller also, i contacted them, and sent me 6x9 inch samples of each product for free, i figured 6x9 is plenty i will do some recordings once i get it

Should be more than big enough, we're still hitching on the projection part though.

On another note, think I might have found some breakout cables for the Nitemax feature connections. This would greatly simplify wiring. They should be here tomorrow, I'll let you know if they fit.

Yevmeister · 07-18-2006, 01:08 AM

nice,

i am glad to see thread finally going, 6 x 9 is plenty, i can always cut it

Yev

shotgunefx · 07-18-2006, 10:41 PM

Ok, got the plugs today and no joy, they look exactly the same, I mean exactly, but double scale

Using Molex SL pins like I did previous works, but is sloppy and hard to fit them all (if you wanted to use all the features that is).

Yevmeister · 07-20-2006, 07:41 PM

Got those samples, no worky, they are bit gloomy, most of the are for rear projection,

i am thinking of something tinted,

BTW, we all have been concentrated of making this as legal as possible, i am not that kind of person, so i was thinking what kind of screen tint would you guys use for such application

thanks in advance

Yev