How I fixed my lilliput touchscreen problems

gubon13 · 04-20-2004, 06:13 PM

Okay, I looked around and didn't see this posted yet. This pertains to the CY-4W-USB-03 touchscreen controller.

I know that others are having the same problems that I was having. The touchscreen would cut in and out, and often times it would forget that it was a resistive screen in the touchkit utility. Hopefully this may help other people.

I was so frustrated last night that I took out my screen and traced down all the wires for the USB and touchscreen. It turned out that the signal was not always going through to the USB from the touchscreen controller. On the controller was 4 wires - soldered directly onto the controller. It wasn't until I saw the EXACT SAME controller on www.digitalww.com that I realized there was supposed to be a pin connector, and not a direct wire solder.

What I did was to desolder the wires from the controller, then solder in an RJ-11 (telephone) plug. It has the 4 wires that I need, and this allowed me to make my own cable. I chopped off the USB connector on the computer side, and just used it as a reference as to what pins were connected to which of the 4 wires on the controller.

So now I have a cable with USB on the computer side, and an RJ-11 connector on the other side. (I'd like to say I chose this connector because it has the clip to hold it in place, or something else logical, but the fact is it was the only connector I had on hand.) Before testing it out, however, I had to remove the drivers and software and reboot. Then I reinstalled and rebooted again. Then after Windows (XP) came back up again, I plugged it in and installed the drivers for it. Now it works great and I have tried everything that would cause it to fail before, and it comes right up without a hitch every time. I did have to recalibrate it, as the calibration information was lost.

I would like to add how utterly ****ED OFF I am that my screen was hacked together my someone who couldn't hold a straight soldering iron if his life depended on it...

Anyhow, for those of you with similar problems and similarly soldered in wires, this may be worth a shot. Obviously the connector type doesn't matter, just that you make a new clean USB connection.

Good luck to all, and I'll try to put up the wire color information when I get home.

none · 04-20-2004, 06:21 PM

Where did you get your screen? Put that ****ed-off energy to use and make sure nobody else buys from them.

antimatter · 04-20-2004, 06:44 PM

I think that it is lilliput in general, not a particular supplier. Anyways....

Thanks for the info. If i ever run accross that problem i will review this post....however i do have a couple of questions/comments...

but fist i would like to say that i am glad that whatevery you did fixed your problem.

the questions/comments...

Usually a soldered connection is preferable to a connector as for signal continuity... why wouldn't this be the case with these new connection?

Do you think that just re-soldering the conections properly would have fixed it?

Also, do you think that it was the fabrication of the new cable was the thing that fixed your problem?

Anyhow Great Post, some pictures and pinouts would be an awesome adition.

Cheers

gospeed.racer · 04-20-2004, 06:46 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by none

Where did you get your screen? Put that ****ed-off energy to use and make sure nobody else buys from them.

I think we have been here before. A lilliput is a lilliput is a lilliput. No matter who sells them, they are made by lilliput. Saying a seller is bad becasue he sold a lilliput wont help. I am peeved that I bought a lilly from Hong Kong, but it isnt their fault it broke, it is lilliputs fault for poorly building, and re-using screens and such that isnt really a good business practice. I cant hold the seller liable.

gubon13 · 04-20-2004, 08:02 PM

Agreed - I purposedly did not include the seller's name because it is lilliput that manufactured it poorly.

As for the soldering question - I chose not to resolder on the wires because it was BOTH the cable and the soldered connection. The cable when plugged in would not get continuity from the controller solder points to the pins on the other end. Even from the black multi-pin connector to the usb cable it was not getting a solid connection - it would cut in and out.

Also, the reason that I put a new connector on the touchscreen controller, rather than just soldering in a new usb cable was because it would have been difficult to get it in and out of my dash with it connected and running under the carpet. As it is now, I can just disconnect the power, vga, and touchscreen and it's out of there. I would have prefered the continuity of a direct solder, but this was not a good option for me.

Will get the pinouts up later. Unfortunately, I don't have a camera, so can't take any photos, at least not until I can borrow one.