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Old 06-19-2006, 03:10 PM   #136
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take a look at my solution here
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...393#post845393
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Old 09-04-2006, 08:39 AM   #137
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Quote: Originally Posted by Micv View Post
Have anyone figured out how to calculate which resistors to use.
I have 6 buttons:
Vol - 54 Ohm
Vol + 147 Ohm
Mode 1036 Ohm
Mute 2007 Ohm
Preset 562 Ohm
^ 300 Ohm
No buttons pushed 5kohm <-- Is this normal

ok its and old thread but this is the only place to put this. I was getting similar values to these and was struggling to get any where. ended up with this setup which seems to work pretty well on to the equivalent of a cheap radio shack usb to joystick adapter. the trim pot just enough to bring the at rest range into a workable value.
only other problem is the application doesn't seem to like resuming with a usb adapter and reports a conection error but doesn't recover untill the app is restarted. found a Util that monitors suspend state and can run an application on the way into or just after a suspend operation, so i now hav a batch file that kills the original process and relaunces it. (had to rename the application to be able to kill it from the command line).
on the off chance any ones interested these are the values from a Vauxhall/Opel Vectra.
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Last edited by lazarus; 09-05-2006 at 11:37 AM. Reason: fixed image, added link to util
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Old 09-29-2006, 10:04 PM   #138
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I read through this thread once and didn't see a mention of SWI-PS. This mod supposedly works with the SWI-X, but how about the SWI-PS.
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Old 11-23-2006, 09:12 AM   #139
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@god_of_cpu - Hi, can you please tell me where you save your readed data (by your SWC program). I need to find out so I can alter it manualy. I make calibration with your tool but after few days (sometime only hours) some buttons don't work anymore... I must recalibrate again and again...

Thanks,
Daniel M.

P.S. thank you for all info provided here.

Last edited by dani146; 11-23-2006 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 07-03-2007, 07:12 PM   #140
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Hello from Italy.
You excuse me for my English little clearly!
My commandos to sterring wheel are of resistivo type, every push-button through resistance emit its input.
All this through two only spins.
In the handbook of workshop of my car: SUZUKI NEW GRAND VITARA the values is cosi shapes to you:
“ENTER”, “+” and “-” switch resistance
All switches released (OFF): 4700 - 5600 kΩ
A) “ENTER” switch (1) pushing on (ON): 50 - 60 Ω
B) “+” switch (2) pushing on (ON): 120 - 140 Ω
“-” switch (3) pushing on (ON): 220 - 260 Ω

“MODE”, and switch resistance
All switches released (OFF): 4700 - 5600 kΩ
C) “MODE” switch (4) pushing on (ON): 370 - 460 Ω
D) witch (5) pushing on (ON): 680 - 820 Ω
switch (6) pushing on (ON): 1400 - 1700 Ω

The Sterring wheel mine is the keys:
A) Enter key > Dumb
B) Key Volume with + and -
C) Key MODE (former function changes from reader CD to Radio
D) Key SEEK with < and >

I use the door game for joystick, between pin 1 and 3 I have put a resistance from 100kohm therefore as between pin 6 and 8 I have put one resistance of 100kohm.
The cables of the keys steering wheel have been attack you to the axis Y.

The software SWC I behave myself optimally, but for the values of the key enter and of key + he does not succeed to pick up marks them, because the values are too much similar.
It tare the values optimally for the key enter and volume “+” wraps it of the values is too much near from 100 90.

According to you, as I must myself be involved?
Which type of resistance I must put in order to obtain the best solution? Thanks for the attention.
Simone
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:36 PM   #141
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100k is way too high. Try what god_of_cpu suggests which is around 500 ohms. That should work much better.
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Old 07-04-2007, 05:31 AM   #142
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Quote: Originally Posted by Curiosity View Post
100k is way too high. Try what god_of_cpu suggests which is around 500 ohms. That should work much better.

Thank you.

I try to put the value to 500 ohm. I will make to know you!

Simone
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Old 07-05-2007, 02:31 AM   #143
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Curiosity, did you have any better luck with the Belkin adapter?
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Old 07-05-2007, 03:58 AM   #144
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Quote: Originally Posted by mobes View Post
Curiosity, did you have any better luck with the Belkin adapter?

I can't remember now but I think the Belkin was the worst. Both USB adaptors had resistors for protection which messed things up. They aren't designed for accuracy or low resistance and you only get a 0 to 127 range to work with, so it's a lot of trouble getting it to read different voltages for each button that are far enough away from each other in a 0 to 2.5v range.
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Old 07-06-2007, 12:42 PM   #145
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Quote: Originally Posted by Curiosity View Post
I can't remember now but I think the Belkin was the worst. Both USB adaptors had resistors for protection which messed things up. They aren't designed for accuracy or low resistance and you only get a 0 to 127 range to work with, so it's a lot of trouble getting it to read different voltages for each button that are far enough away from each other in a 0 to 2.5v range.

Alright, I won't buy one. Thanks!

It's looking more and more like a PIC might be in order since I don't have a joystick port or room for a PCI card.
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Old 07-10-2007, 03:22 PM   #146
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Ok I've just read this whole thread and I just want to check I've got things right in my head.
I have a laptop based car pc so gameport is not an option.. it must be usb.
Am I right in thinkin I can get one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DUAL-ACTION-DI...QQcmdZViewItem
and simply wire up my cars steering wheel button line into one of the analog sticks - I understand that there are extra resistors etc too.. but I want to check I have got the basic understanding before I buy a gamepad.

Cheers
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Old 07-11-2007, 02:15 AM   #147
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Yes, that should work. I used a USB gamepad first, and it worked reasonably well.
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Old 07-11-2007, 05:46 AM   #148
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Thanks Curiosity.. I've just purchased one of those pads
Are there any diagrams around on how to wire this up, I was looking last night and most of the links were dead
Any advice would be most welcome!
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:37 AM   #149
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Figure out which is input 0. It should be the left up/down. The pot connected to it is usually a 10K. Check it with a meter to find the ground and +5V on the outside pins, and the center tap is the input. Then just remove it and solder some wires there, or put the resistors there and wires.
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:01 AM   #150
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Thanks man, I'm glad we have people like you around here who know what they are doing
I'll have a play around once the pad arrives..
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