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10-28-2004, 02:46 AM
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#106
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The North, Manchester
Posts: 814
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Any one know if Renault (europe) are knocking out custom adapters for this?? i know BMW are
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12-24-2004, 12:14 AM
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#107
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Raw Wave
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: SilverSpring Maryland
Posts: 2,960
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The original thread on g35driver with complete instructions for this can now be found here:
http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19881
They updated the forum so the old link stopped working.
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12-24-2004, 12:42 AM
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#108
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What can I say? I like serial.
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Florence Yall, BFKY
Posts: 2,158
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I think I have an alternative if the controls have one grounded wire. I was determined to get the radio shack USB thing working, and this seemed to do it, but it's kind of jumpy. That's probably due to radio shack junk. I'm going to try a belkin one next. The resistor values are probably only good for my car though, and for 2 inputs just do the same as X with Y. Oh, and make sure there's at least some resistance between 5V and Gnd (and through the buttons) so it doesn't short or draw too much power.
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01-02-2005, 07:25 PM
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#109
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 36
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Ok so I am having some trouble getting this to work, I have 6 buttons for swc, I checked and it is using varied resistance to send the signal out 1 wire to the head unit so I tapped into that as well as the ground at the head unit and ran thos e2 wires to the carpc in the back. I then tried to wire up somethign exaclty like the post above(using 1/2 watt 5% tolerance resistors)except for the 120k resistor he used I used just a 100k resistor, no diodes or anything (didnt understand why they would be needed) I then attatched the wires to the usb gameport adapter thing from radioshack, installed the software and then tried to calibrate using god of cpus software, the baseline came in at a steady -90 I then tried to map some buttons but the only one getting a reading was the mute button. Anyone have any ideas on whats going on or if it is jsut the kind of resistors I used ? if anyoen needs any mroe info to try and help ill supply it as best as Ican but this just has me stumped
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01-02-2005, 08:08 PM
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#110
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What can I say? I like serial.
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Florence Yall, BFKY
Posts: 2,158
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I think we can simplify this process now after seeing a few different cars. First, connect the 2 wires or ground and 1 wire to a meter and check for voltage. If there's voltage, you need a diode to keep it from blowing the joystick port. 2nd, switch to ohms and write down the restance values of all the buttons. That helps to figure out how to compensate with external resistors. 3rd, get the right resistors and hook it all up. 4th, (optional) connect the meter to ground and the axis pins and watch voltage when pressing the buttons.
You want to see a big difference between all buttons in the 5V range.
5th, go into game controllers in the control panel and calibrate it there. Enable "Show raw data" so you can see that the values change when you hit all the buttons. Then hit OK and it's ready for use by the SWC app.
If some buttons don't work or are the same value, then the value of the resistors need to be changed. But, to what? I don't know.
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01-04-2005, 01:25 AM
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#111
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 36
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Yeah that does make it simpler although I am not entirely sure on what kind of resistors to go with and I shoud not need a diode since there was no voltage when I tested it...as far as the ohm ratings of the buttons mine are as follows if someone could help me in the right direction of what kind of resistors I may need and placed where
I have 6 buttons, Button 1=128, Button 2=52, Button 3=229, Button 4=354, Button 5=497, Button 6=647. And like I had mentioned in my last post was I had tried your exact setup there with only button 6 getting any reading at all which leads me to believe I just need some lower resistors?
- Phil
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01-04-2005, 02:42 AM
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#112
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What can I say? I like serial.
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Florence Yall, BFKY
Posts: 2,158
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Yep. Lower resistors. Change both 10K to 1K and see if that works. You should get most, if not all the buttons then. That's more like what god shows in the original diagram. He also went down to 500 ohms, but that seems like it may be too much drain when it's taking 5V to ground through 500 + 52 + 500 ohms. Here's a little more info on mine (I'm working with higher resistances):
1.3K = Volume up
1.6K = Volume down
1.9K = Play
2.4K = Mute
3.1K = Seek up
4.3K = Seek down
6.7K = AM/FM
13.6K = Preset
If I change both resistors to 1K then volume up / volume down / play work and are really stable, and if I change the 5V->axis one to 15K (and leave the other at 10K) then seek up / seek down / amfm / preset works. It's confusing to say the least. The radioshack adaptor is probably just designed bad or something.
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01-06-2005, 03:00 PM
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#113
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 500
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Anyone ever hacked into the steering wheel volume controls on an Acura RL. I plan on taking the master volume knob from a sound blaster platinum setup, and running it up front. i first thought about mounting the knob on the dash, but hooking it up to the existing controls, would be much nicer.
thanks,
K
__________________
Round VIII - [IIIIIIIIII] 30% Have some parts for 300zx Sema car I don't own yet. Will have 10.4" & 7" screen, and more then you can believe. Will add updates to cleancustoms.com, will be sweet. My car is still same, but might change.
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01-10-2005, 11:30 PM
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#114
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 35
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I've been workin on this for a few days on my 03 Celica. I'm actually using my cruise control buttons and am gonna switch between the cruise and the computer. I've got the resistance values from my repair manual as follows
accel 210-217 ohms
decel 560-700 ohms
cancel 1390-1700 ohms
I'm using Curiosity's wiring with the two 10K ohm resistors as show an a 100K ohm instead of the 120K
Sadly I am using the radio shack adaptor as well. After getting no change with different combinations of resistors, I decided to check the voltage on pins 1 and 3. When I do this I get around 4 volts with no buttons and varying voltages very close to 4 for each button. As long as I am holding probes on pins 1 and 3 I can calibrate the joystick and get different values for each button. I can also get Steering Wheel Controls working almost perfectly. The minute I pull the probes off of the pins I can't do jack. ]
Any ideas??
Thanks!
Andy
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01-11-2005, 01:00 AM
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#115
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What can I say? I like serial.
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Florence Yall, BFKY
Posts: 2,158
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I think changing both 10K to 1K should work for you and most others. I'd like to hear from CrazyOne01 if that worked for him! When it's showing 4V and not dropping much, that means you should lower the resistance on the resistor connected to the buttons, and if it's dropping too much, lower the other one. But not too much. I've noticed that the radio shack adapter doesn't register anything past a certain point. Somewhere around 1V-4V works best. They probably assume that most joysticks only use maybe the middle 50% of the pot or less and don't care about the full range.
The meter thing is strange though. Maybe it's resistance is helping?
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01-15-2005, 02:57 PM
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#116
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 36
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nope still struggling with this, I swapped the mboth for 1k ohm resistors and the only one that was registering was button number 2(the one with the lowest resistance). Could this just be an issue with the radioshack crap usb adapter ?(its a shame that the epias do nto have an onboard gameport adapter)
- Phil(out of ideas)
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01-15-2005, 05:01 PM
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#117
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What can I say? I like serial.
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Florence Yall, BFKY
Posts: 2,158
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It is hard to work with, that's for sure. First it was button 6, now button 2? Maybe get a couple small 10K pots. That way you could adjust them until it worked. Well, I can't think of anything else. Sometimes my volume up stops working, which is the lowest. It just jumps all over the place. Anything I do makes it worse, but maybe with some pots I could figure out the best value for the resistors. The adapter also has 1.6K internal resistors on the axis pins. No idea what those are there for or if they add to the problems.
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01-24-2005, 08:59 PM
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#118
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FLAC
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Afton MN
Posts: 1,120
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Sorry to dredge this thread up again, but I found this website that might be appropriate:
http://p-car.com/diy/steeringradio/
Some guy wanted to control his stereo with stock buttons on the steering wheel (like you folks), except he wanted to use his Porsche Tiptronic Tranny buttons!
I mean come on... You pay that much for a car, then go disabling one of its biggest features!
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02-16-2005, 03:03 PM
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#119
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3
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Quote: Originally Posted by CrzyOne01
nope still struggling with this, I swapped the mboth for 1k ohm resistors and the only one that was registering was button number 2(the one with the lowest resistance). Could this just be an issue with the radioshack crap usb adapter ?(its a shame that the epias do nto have an onboard gameport adapter)
- Phil(out of ideas)
Phil please keep me posted on this because I<m just about to start my carputer project in my 3
Got any pics of your setup to date ?
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07-13-2005, 08:19 PM
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#120
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Barrie Ontario
Posts: 406
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Quote: Originally Posted by CrzyOne01
nope still struggling with this, I swapped the mboth for 1k ohm resistors and the only one that was registering was button number 2(the one with the lowest resistance). Could this just be an issue with the radioshack crap usb adapter ?(its a shame that the epias do nto have an onboard gameport adapter)
- Phil(out of ideas)
NO luck with this yet do you? I too have no gameport and would really like to know how I can get this working. I read someone earler mention one of those phidgets things, would something like that be appropriate in this situation?
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