Simple and Clean Remote Laptop Power Switch - Page 2

WarDriver · 06-29-2008, 10:25 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by wavetek

My technical guess would be that I'm using the wrong leads because I guessed it because I left my multimeter at work.

You should check the contiguity of the original laptop switch....that should tell you rather quickly.

AltimateX · 07-03-2008, 03:02 PM

Great write up! I am trying it right now but have run into a problem. I have two pins on on side of the switch and two on the other. If I touch both pins in one set on either side and press the button I get a beep. So since this is happening on either side, I know both sides close when I press the button. Does it matter which side I use as long as they close when the power button is pushed?

Is it safe just to randomly try one side to see if it works or do I risk frying something?

wavetek · 07-03-2008, 07:37 PM

Both sides on my laptop did the same thing. You probably could use either side. I had an issue using a momentary switch. My system would shut right back off after hitting the switch. I used a SPST on/off swtich and it's working great. The only setback is that you have to click it on then click back off again for the laptop to stay powered on. My soldering sucks so that was a major pain in the butt.

AltimateX · 07-03-2008, 11:03 PM

I wonder if the fact that both sides closed caused the problem you were having?

I am going to try tapping off a random side tomorrow and see what happens.

AltimateX · 07-04-2008, 09:07 PM

Works great!

Nice write-up Wardriver.

Thanks for the effort!

Wavetek, I had the same problem as you at first. My laptop would come on and turn right off again. I found that the tiny circuit board my switch was connected to was the problem. I just de-soldered it from the board and repositioned it so it wasn't making contact anymore. I had a circuit board because it was on of those push button shifter knobs which lights up so maybe this information isn't relevant to your situation.

wavetek · 07-05-2008, 09:47 PM

Here is a couple after pics of my job.

WarDriver · 07-05-2008, 10:32 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by AltimateX

Works great!

Nice write-up Wardriver.

Thanks for the effort!

Glad it worked...

BMW DZYN · 07-11-2008, 12:03 PM

Waveteck: Heres something i was thinking about concerning the start switch vs. startup controller issue. Most people want the laptop to start up and shut down on ignition because its cool and they dont want to have to press a button. Yet, the power switch is the most reliable method of shut down and power up.

Possible solution: use the hard power switch mechanically with the cars automatic door lock system. In my convertible when I hit LOCK on my remote the two door pins lock and so does my trunk..and even my gas cap. When I hit unlock, the inverse happens. Why not hook a very light touch power switch as yours to one of these mechanisims? While at the same time retaining a spare ..say under your drivers seat just in case you have to reboot or shut down or whatever? This even had the added advantage that your computer starts to bootup/wake as you are walking up to the car before you even get inside. Has this been discussed?

Pros and cons? (other than the actual install which i would asume could get hairy)

Leo.

WarDriver · 07-11-2008, 12:31 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by BMW DZYN

Pros and cons? (other than the actual install which i would asume could get hairy)

The install shouldn't be too bad - you could use a relay and just use a simple relay. You would just hook your "line" and "load" terminals to your laptop.

You'd need to test of course - different cars pulse differently not to mention you'd have to run the wires down. (which shouldn't be an issue if you can get your hands on a diagram) I would say that it would work good for start up or standby...definitely worth investigating. You'll want to make sure that each time you lock you doors you don't trip your relay - so that might involve a 50 cent diode available at any Radio Shack.

Let us know how it goes.

2jzlex · 07-23-2008, 06:33 PM

Hey guys, wondering if you can shed some light on this, picture quality is crap sorry. Pretty much I am lost, the inside of my laptop looks nothing like what you have. Its an earlier Dell model.

On my start button setup, it is a small board with 2 very small buttons, the one on the left is for the power on/off. Here is what it looks like.

This is the backside of it..

This is where it plugs in..

HELP!!!!

WarDriver · 07-23-2008, 10:57 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 2jzlex

On my start button setup, it is a small board with 2 very small buttons, the one on the left is for the power on/off.

I recall seeing one like this when I tore down a dell. Use a multimeter and figure out which contacts produce connectivity when pressed. Then solder off of those pads.

ssm05rsx · 09-08-2008, 09:40 PM

I am about to do this to my acer aspire one, but I am very scared... haha... anyone live near deptford NJ and maybe want to help?

i have never soldered before in my life... well maybe once. but not on a brand new computer..

Not my pic, got it off internet, ive opened it before, when i do again ill get better pics but the power button is the little thing at the very top right hand corner. how hard do you think it will be?

WarDriver · 09-08-2008, 11:05 PM

Soldering is not hard...you just need some practice.

Radio Shack sells a cheap-o kit for like $8 that should get you started. Depending on the switch mechanism the tip may be too wide.

As for tips on how to solder you should hit up YouTube. There is a lot of good material on there.

As for the switch - I cannot tell you the best way to mod your new PC...just use some common sense.

heliodoro · 09-21-2008, 11:34 AM

Hi,

I will like to make this mod but I dont know where to solder the wires
I have a Asus 901.

Please if there is sameone out there that knows where to connect the wires plese let me know.

Regards

Heliodoro

WarDriver · 09-21-2008, 06:21 PM

Heliodoro
Check the continuity between the 4 pads when the button is pressed.