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03-14-2008, 07:03 PM
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#16
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Springfield, MO
Vehicle: 2004 CHEVY MALIBU CLASSIC
Posts: 217
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Because i'm using a laptop i'm not using a PSU, i'm running my power battery relay switch laptop power supply.
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03-14-2008, 07:04 PM
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#17
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Springfield, MO
Vehicle: 2004 CHEVY MALIBU CLASSIC
Posts: 217
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Fusion, question about a relay, if i have a relay before my switch when my car turns off is it going to kill all power to my switch? I'm guessing this is when the valet switch would come into play by by passing the acc line (relay) and sending power straight to the switch?
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03-15-2008, 01:36 PM
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#18
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Boston
Vehicle: '07 Ford Fusion
Posts: 558
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Quote: Originally Posted by Nickwell24 
Fusion, question about a relay, if i have a relay before my switch when my car turns off is it going to kill all power to my switch?
yes it will. if you wire a relay before your switch, then the relay will cut power to anything hooked up to lead 87. you shouldn't put a switch after the relay. remember, the relay itself is a switch, so there is no need to add another switch the the relayed power wire. if you add a switch, it should be on the coil power line (to prevent the relay from switching power 'on').
Quote: Originally Posted by Nickwell24 
I'm guessing this is when the valet switch would come into play by by passing the acc line (relay) and sending power straight to the switch?
no. the purpose of a 'valet' switch for a carputer is to manually cut power so that a valet driver (or anybody else you don't want screwing with your stuff) can't turn the equipment on. a 'valet' switch is wired on the coil power wire (lead 86). when the valet switch is in the 'open' position (off) then the relay coil will not be powered regardless of whether or not the car is on.
a valet switch should be wired like this:
you could wire an 'override' switch, but I don't really see the point. I can't imagine a scenario where you would need to use the carputer without the ignition key. if you want to use the carputer without the engine running, then just put the key into the 'ACC' position.
IMO, an override switch would defeat the purpose of using a relay in the first place, so I wouldn't recommend it. that being said, if you still want to wire an override switch then you can wire it in like this:

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03-17-2008, 08:41 AM
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#19
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Springfield, MO
Vehicle: 2004 CHEVY MALIBU CLASSIC
Posts: 217
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Wow, thanks for the diagrams, it's really nice being able to see what people are actually talking about. Thanks man, the main reason for the switch is because it's about the only way the GF will be okay with me spending 2 - 3 weeks working on this and giving her no attention, because in her opinion the switch "looks cool", worst mistake ever is take a trip to radio shack w/ a girlfriend to buy a switch, they make you buy the "pretty one" so i end up w/ a $5 switch that looks like it belongs in an F-15 rather than a car.
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03-17-2008, 09:12 AM
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#20
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FLAC
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Miami
Vehicle: 03 Dodge Durango SLT
Posts: 1,591
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Quote: Originally Posted by Nola111 
You're going to want to run external power to the hub if you want to prevent potential issues, especially if you're going to have a slim DVD player hooked up to it. Also, in your diagram you're missing a data line (USB) from the touchscreen to the laptop.
Nola can you explain this a bit more? I have 2 hubs that are powered with DC-DC adapters, but I was not sure how to connect them. I was worried that if I connected them to my relay, they would loose power before the PC could shut down or hibernate. So I decided to add them to the 12v rail on my OPUS 320. Was this a wise idea?
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03-17-2008, 11:11 AM
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#21
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Boston
Vehicle: '07 Ford Fusion
Posts: 558
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Quote: Originally Posted by Nickwell24 
the main reason for the switch is because it's about the only way the GF will be okay with me spending 2 - 3 weeks working on this and giving her no attention, because in her opinion the switch "looks cool", worst mistake ever is take a trip to radio shack w/ a girlfriend to buy a switch, they make you buy the "pretty one" so i end up w/ a $5 switch that looks like it belongs in an F-15 rather than a car.
lol... that's funny.
just tell her it's the wrong switch. or just use it for something else. (i.e. throw some mood lights on the ceiling  )
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03-17-2008, 12:35 PM
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#22
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Springfield, MO
Vehicle: 2004 CHEVY MALIBU CLASSIC
Posts: 217
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the switch would actually work fine it's made for automobile installation, i'm considering using it for the screen and the Cigarette Lighters instead though, i hate the fact that cigarette lights are a constant drain on power.
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03-17-2008, 03:11 PM
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#23
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FLAC
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Miami
Vehicle: 03 Dodge Durango SLT
Posts: 1,591
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Quote: Originally Posted by Nickwell24 
the switch would actually work fine it's made for automobile installation, i'm considering using it for the screen and the Cigarette Lighters instead though, i hate the fact that cigarette lights are a constant drain on power.
It depends on the car though..... Mine shut off when the ignition is turned off.... The socket for the rear doesnt, and the one in the center console doesnt....
__________________
PLANNING [ 100%]
CAR PC ITEMS [ 100%]
INSTALL OF PC [ 100%]
BUG WORKOUT [ 75%]
INTERIOR MODS [ 50%]
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03-17-2008, 10:41 PM
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#24
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Boston
Vehicle: '07 Ford Fusion
Posts: 558
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Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 
I have 2 hubs that are powered with DC-DC adapters, but I was not sure how to connect them. I was worried that if I connected them to my relay, they would loose power before the PC could shut down or hibernate. So I decided to add them to the 12v rail on my OPUS 320. Was this a wise idea?
since you USB hubs run on 5VDC, you can power them directly from the OPUS +5V rail (instead of running two 12vdc-5vdc PSUs off the OPUS +12V rail). modern systems don't pull much from the +5V rail, so chances are you have enough unused power for your hub(s).
yes, if you power the hubs from the main relay, power to the hubs will be cut before the PC shuts down. the solution to this is to run a second relay for the hubs, with the OPUS +12V rail as the coil power. (see diagram below);

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03-17-2008, 10:43 PM
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#25
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Springfield, MO
Vehicle: 2004 CHEVY MALIBU CLASSIC
Posts: 217
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totally random question, is it possible to use a DC DC adapter on a laptop install? or is there another way you can think to power a usb hub w/o using an inverter?
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03-18-2008, 05:54 AM
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#26
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FLAC
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Miami
Vehicle: 03 Dodge Durango SLT
Posts: 1,591
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Quote: Originally Posted by FusionFanatic 
since you USB hubs run on 5VDC, you can power them directly from the OPUS +5V rail (instead of running two 12vdc-5vdc PSUs off the OPUS +12V rail). modern systems don't pull much from the +5V rail, so chances are you have enough unused power for your hub(s).
yes, if you power the hubs from the main relay, power to the hubs will be cut before the PC shuts down. the solution to this is to run a second relay for the hubs, with the OPUS +12V rail as the coil power. (see diagram below);

In the past i have connected USB hubs directly to the OPUS, which resulted in melting.... It may be because of polarity error or to many amps. Thats why I went with DC-DC adapters to kill my worries. I was also worried that the 5V rail would not be able to handle two 7-port USB hubs.... I would love to eleminate the DC-DC adapters though, they take up alot of needed space. What measures can I take to ensure nothing gets fried?
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INSTALL OF PC [ 100%]
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03-18-2008, 06:00 AM
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#27
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FLAC
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Miami
Vehicle: 03 Dodge Durango SLT
Posts: 1,591
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Quote: Originally Posted by Nickwell24 
totally random question, is it possible to use a DC DC adapter on a laptop install? or is there another way you can think to power a usb hub w/o using an inverter?
I think, someone correct me, you can use the laptops power brick without an inverter. If you want to power the hubs, use a DC-DC adapter.... the ones I have only go between 4.5 and 6 volts. I have them set to 4.5 volts with no noticable issues.
__________________
PLANNING [ 100%]
CAR PC ITEMS [ 100%]
INSTALL OF PC [ 100%]
BUG WORKOUT [ 75%]
INTERIOR MODS [ 50%]
BUDGET [ 380%]
HiJackZX1 Work Log
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03-18-2008, 06:34 AM
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#28
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Springfield, MO
Vehicle: 2004 CHEVY MALIBU CLASSIC
Posts: 217
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how would i use the brick w/o an inverter, it comes out of the brick on the laptop end as DC, but has to go in as AC.
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03-18-2008, 12:45 PM
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#29
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Boston
Vehicle: '07 Ford Fusion
Posts: 558
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Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1
I think, someone correct me, you can use the laptops power brick without an inverter
the power brick that comes with a laptop is an AC-DC power supply. you would need an inverter to use it.
you can buy DC-DC auto/air adapters. they look similar to the bricks that come with laptops, that may be what you were thinking of.

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03-18-2008, 01:25 PM
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#30
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Springfield, MO
Vehicle: 2004 CHEVY MALIBU CLASSIC
Posts: 217
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and that's another 100
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