parksgm

Someone should report that as spam... interesting it got through though...the mods spend quite a bit of time deleting spam before most users ever see it.

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stavrosg

Got my samples, but I am trying to follow the thread....

stavrosg

So let's recap..

DBEF-E in the manual transmission axis on the film is;

+-------------------\/--+
| < --------------> |
+----------------------+

And for DBEF2 90/50

+-----\/+
| /\ |
| | |
| | |
| | |
| \/ |
+------+

Here is where I am confused..

nobb ran "Diffuser -> DBEF2 ( == ) -> DBEF-E (==)"
Homebrew suggested "DEF2 (||) -> DBEF2 (=) -> DBEF-E (||)"

I am ready to cut my films (DBEF2 90/50 and DBEF-E), just not sure what to do.

Threads pretty long, and getting hard to follow;

nserpa9248

i picked up the samples as well..

however there was no pricing sheets and / or real contact info on ordering, just the general contact number for the 3m vikuti line

Guinnessdawg

I grabbed 4 sheets of DBEF P2 off ebay for a decent price today. Has anyone used P2 yet? I still need to get the BEF, ESR & ARMR from digikey.

nst6563

[quote=stavrosg;1141776]Homebrew suggested "DEF2 (||) -> DBEF2 (=) QUOTE]

That is correct yes. the 2nd sheet of BEFII should be at a 90 degree orientation to the first sheet.

DBEF-E should be in the same orientation as the polarizer that's on the back of the LCD itself. It's hard to tell which way the polarizer on the LCD is oriented, so if you can't tell...this is where trial and error comes in. if you have a 7" screen, 1 DBEF-E sample will give you enough to do 2 7" cuts. I think maybe 3 if you plan your cuts just right.

nobb

Yea I also think he is advertising his company. Ive seen some of his other threads trying to promoting his company.

Anyways, parkgsm, I did in fact have enough film to reinstall. On my drive to university today at 8:30am, I took a small detour and parked the car up a tall hill. I deliberately oriented my car so that the morning sun was shining on my screen in the worse possible way. And guess what? IT WAS READABLE! I have attached some pictures I took at a driver's angle. I didnt bring my real camera with me, so I had to use my 2MP camera phone. The camera on my phone is actually pretty crappy, so it doesnt give a good sense of how viewable my screen is. Maybe the color detail/contrast is crappy. In the picture, it actually appears as if the parts under the sun are more viewable than the dark areas. In real life, it is opposite, but I guess the camera sees things differently. In real life, I am pleased to say that the screen is actually much more viewable than it appears in the pictures. I could actually make out my song titles, or other various small details.

Here is how my films are installed: backlight module > BEFII > DBEF > LCD. Both BEFII and DBEF films have their axis ===HORIZONTAL=== (with respect to the longest side on the widescreen lcd). This is very important. If you do not have the film's axis horizontal, it will end up looking like my pics in page 21 of this thread. My pics on page 21 are done with the films oriented exactly as Homebrew suggested in page 9, and the screen looks horrible, so I am suspecting his instructions might be wrong. In the end, I did not use 2 sheets of BEFII because that seemed to hurt viewing angle. One sheet of BEFII seems sufficient for now, as I did not get a chance to test out my screen under full noon sun.

I also did not use any ESR because my backlight module was too fragile to take apart, and I chickened out. Although using ESR would probably improve the sunlight visibility even more.

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nst6563

nicely done

When I re-locate my screen I may remove one sheet of BEFII from my screen. It's simply so bright it's crazy that even with the backlight at 5% it's too bright at night. Are you still able to dim your screen enough to not blind you at night?

What might make your screen even more readable in direct sunlight like that would be the ESR backlight film.

nobb

For now, ESR does not seem necessary, and I am too chicken to try getting underneath the backlight module. The screen is definitely usable under the sun. However, one issue that no one has mentioned is cold temperatures. When winter comes, and the screen is at -40C temperatures, it will probably be very dim. Even with the 3m upgrade, I dont expect my screen to be visible under these conditions until the tubes warm.

I cannot dim the backlight on my screen, but there are settings to change the color profile. At night, I just press the day/night button in Centrafuse to get my screen dim (although I wish it could do that automatically).

nst6563

if you can replace the films in the LCD...placing ESR in the backlight is a walk in the park. The backlight is no where near as fragile/susceptable to damage as the actual LCD and controller boards. All the backlight consists of is a plastic frame, CCFL, and a clear plastic grid to disperse the light evenly (I think they call this the lightguide). the CCFL is only held in by chrome 'clips'.

meddler

We try our best, but sometimes spam does get through. If you do see a spammish post, flaming or the like, please report it so we can deal with the offending member.

thanks

meddler.

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stavrosg

I just took apart my 700TSV (5 wire model) and managed to lift off the film with paper.

I could see little ridges in the bottom most films. The orientation was the following.

Backlight -> diffuser -> Lower Sheet (BEF probably) ( ||) -> Upper Sheet ( == ), then the top most sheet (??) which i couldn't make out any orientation.

So i set the films the way I foudn them.. bef2 (||) bef2 (==) dbef-e (||)..

Will try in the car this afternoon and post some pics..

taking apart was easy..

Thanks for the help guys!!! This forum rocks!!!

Stav

nst6563

the topmost sheet you talk about was probably a polarizer. It's very hard to tell which orientation the polarizer is unless you use a light source/pattern to determine. I just guessed on mine to be honest.

stavrosg

Wow.. The screen part was way easier than i thought, but now I have a problem with re-assembly.

I tested the screen half closed (casing not screwed together) to see if I messed up the films.

WOW. It worked, i can't get over HOW much of a difference it made.

It was over cast, so I am excited to see it in the sun, but my buddy in the car with me freaked at how vibrant the color had become. It's also SUPER clear.

This is FREAKY!! One of the screw on the black bracket holding the board to the case had penetrated the LCD ribbon cable and was maybe shorting on the metal case of the panel. It was a tiny hole/tear, so taped off both sides and now the static and video noise I was having is GONE!!!!

BUT, it can't be a perfect world we live in. Here is the screwed up part.

My ribbon cable barely reaches the connector and comes loose when close the monitor case properly. I can't even put all the screws in the board, and it's at a slight angle. I can't remember if there was soooo little slack when i took it apart.

I am working on shifting the panel down 1/8" now.

But I am SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO happy with how clear it looks, even if it's not sunlight readable it looks WAY brighter.

I attached pics of the screw and my cuts of the sheets with the notches on the film marked. I screwed up the first DBEF-E sheet so i cut it twice.

WARNING, at the risk of over stating the obvious, there are protective films on BOTH sides of each sheet. BEF2 has one clear, one yellow, and DBEF-E has two clear ones.

Almost missed them on the DBEF-E.


Stav

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changeip

I believe DBEF P2 is supposed to be laminated to the LCD itself ... not just inserted loose.

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