Lilliput LCD, 2000 Celica GT and voltage problem

Goose · 12-27-2003, 10:30 AM

Hello.
I am done with Version 1.0 of my system.
I got 2000 Celica GT and Lilliput VGA LCD.
All works fine but,
When I turn on fog light or far-lights the screen looses a little brightnes in max 1 sec exacly when I turn on light. (the LCD is about 10% more darker).
the same is when brake hard so the ABS system turns on.

Now I know my car battery is old now (3,5 years) and have to be changed, but will new battery solve the problem?

Or maby I have to mout a condensator 8or what it is colled in english

) to get stable voltage and amp?

or do I have to go for 2 battery system? (the seccond one takes chargin but is not giving amp to the rest of the car.)

Or is it something else I can do?

My Car alternator is 80A...

here is schematics over my system:
http://martin.webdesigns.no/montering/sjema.jpg
PS! I do not the rear anf front audio apms yet. just small 8" active subwoofer.)

and here is some picture from the instalation:
http://martin.webdesigns.no/montering/1.jpg
http://martin.webdesigns.no/montering/2.jpg
http://martin.webdesigns.no/montering/4.jpg
http://martin.webdesigns.no/montering/3.jpg
PS! don't look at how my LCD is mounted, it is just until monday.

Any one who has some edvaices?

thnx

AJ Quick · 12-27-2003, 11:18 AM

I just want to say that it will be awesome when you get it all installed and working. Very nice and clean job sofar.

robiewp · 12-27-2003, 11:26 AM

condensator- i think you mean capacitor. peole with too much audio stuff get big honking capacitors (1 farad should be overkill) so that their amp can reach its max and blow your eardrumbs. You could get one of these, or go with the 2nd battery option.

How are you powering your screen + computer? sometimes if you wire them directly via heavy gauge wire (i did my setup with 4) all your problems will go away.

P.S. what did you use for your wiring diagram? visio?

Rob

Goose · 12-27-2003, 02:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by AJ Quick

I just want to say that it will be awesome when you get it all installed and working. Very nice and clean job sofar.

Thnx, I spent about 38 hours to plase all cables.
So I want to havea clean install.
so far here is the list over all cables:

- 3 audio cables (front, rear and sub amplifiers)
- 2 RCA cables (one for audio from Pc to aux-inn and rear camera, seccond to optional use )
- vga
- 2x USB
- 2 ps2
- 1 seriall
- 1 fat +12V direct form battery on the other side of the car.
- 1 remote signal cable to turn on amp's
- 1 +12V for the LCD
- 1 -12V for LCD

Goose · 12-27-2003, 02:40 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by robiewp

condensator- i think you mean capacitor. peole with too much audio stuff get big honking capacitors (1 farad should be overkill) so that their amp can reach its max and blow your eardrumbs. You could get one of these, or go with the 2nd battery option.

How are you powering your screen + computer? sometimes if you wire them directly via heavy gauge wire (i did my setup with 4) all your problems will go away.

P.S. what did you use for your wiring diagram? visio?

Rob

Capacitor yes, thnx

I found aout that my car battery is very bad. when I charge it up, at let my car stand outside 2 day in -5 deg I have a vary problems to start the car, not becouse the engine wants start, but becouse the starter have very problems to run arround. so I am going to buy new 70A car battery, but I also will buy capacito @ 1farad.

so if the problem is still there I will mount olt battery andhave 2 battery system.

right now I am powering my Pc from a DC-AC inverter and AC-DC adapter.
my LCD is powered direct from a fuse block which get power from a vary fat cable direct from car battery.

yes I use Ms visio 2003 for diagram..

robiewp · 12-27-2003, 03:18 PM

if the new car battery and the farad capacitor don't fix your problems, then another car battery won't fix the real problem either. If the problem persists after all of that work try plugging your DC-AC inverter into the fuse block where you get your LCD power. It sounds to me like the wires you're running the computer off of are weak.

Rob

Goose · 12-27-2003, 06:04 PM

i will make a test in couple of hours.
I will try to power my Pc direct for regular house power contact in the wall and I take power to my lcd from the car.
If the problem is still there it means that my wires to DC-AC inverter is good inuff.

BTW. there is a 21 (square mm) cable with +12V direct from the battery to fuse block, then there is a 8 (square mm) cable from fuseblock to DC-AC inverter.

But I am 70% sure that is is my car battery. done some testing and it looks like this poor 3,5 years old battery has done it's job and need repleacment...

I will post when I be done with a test I wrote about more up in this post...

robiewp · 12-27-2003, 06:22 PM

sounds like your wiring isn't the problem.

Rob

Goose · 12-27-2003, 08:11 PM

No my wireing isn't the problem.
I have learned from a leater experience that if you want to whire a +12V to audio amp or otherthings make if fat! very fat! so 21 (square mm) is a min I use. the 26 is to expensive and to powerfull for my use, I will never run JBL 1000W Subwoofer

I have now tested running Pc powered from wall (house power) and I get the same problem (I call it problem, or meby a little inoing point of using LCD), the LCD is a 10% darker in about 0.5 sek in the same time I turn on fog light or hig beam lights.

So I am goying to buy new car battery on monday. and I making it as big as possible. I hope for 80A but I am not sure there is such powerfull battry in a size that firs mounting place in engine room.

But I discoveret another thing.
It is that my DC-AC inverter make a lot of noise.
then I use it I get a small inoing sound in my speakers (the inverter and PC are grounded with 8 (square mm) cable. So I am decidet to go for DC-DC PSU @150 W.

But do you know if opus (the one I want to but) has a noise filter so I will not get this crappy inoing soung in my speakers?

BTW: it is not cables problem as I use triple shild RCA cables.

thnx for help

shchua · 12-27-2003, 09:07 PM

I had lots of noise (buzzing) problems using an inverter. I tried everything - grounding the inverter, PSU case, wiring the inverter directly to the battery, separating audio wires from power etc to no avail.

All the noise disappeared when I switched to an Opus 150W DC-DC converter. I didn't even have to ground anything at all.

Goose · 12-28-2003, 06:07 AM

Now I decided to buy 150W opus.

i have other question to you about upus.
whitch version is better?
the build in one or just pcb?

I use hight-green black case for Epia M with slim dvd and full size hdd and there is av very small margins to put opus in there but I think it schould go.

someone who has high green case and mouned inn opus? 55W is not som mutch so I don't think so that opus will go to warm in that case. for other site, there is alwas possibility to modify a case.

NJay · 12-28-2003, 02:12 PM

Hi Goose,
I don't have the problem of it dimming in my Celica (190/GTS/T-Sport depending on where you come from)

I am running it on a Stock Toyota Celica battery and use the lilliput cigarette charger cable.

What might be helping (although indirectly) is that the audio-video install I have has a 1F capacitor. Its hooked into the power distribution block on the boot which happens to provide all the DC power for the amp, CCFL lighting and 300w Invertor that the PC is powered from. Might well be smoothing out the power drain.

BTW - In the UK the 190/GTS is known to have an ECU problem that is seen as the lights dimming and/or the whole car momentarily cutting out. Its not just a UK thing though as the batch affected has a certain VIN range

Goose · 12-28-2003, 06:12 PM

NJay, ys I have today sended order to new Audio amp and Subwoofer, leater I will change all speakers in the car and buy one more audio amp.
I am goying to put a 1 farad capacitor, but I nned to chenge my battery, taday I the car started on the las try before battery was empty and it was jus -1 C outside.
So i think I will salve some of the problem with new battery.

BTW. In norway the Celica is called Celica and Celica T-Sport, but I mean that US name is better GT and GTS...

Ow just for a informng you and those who are interested. I found a tuning werksted in Polang that will make my GT to ZGT reasure turbo the result is 196 HP @ 260Nm)
that schould be inuff for an GT engine...

*** lots of projects ine my mind but less money

***

NJay · 12-29-2003, 02:34 PM

Going way off topic.

Founder member of Celica-club has tuning compnay. His own 140 is currently running a direct-port nitroused, Supercharged setup. Its has been going strong for well over 6months (he races it on tracks) and let just say its putting out more than that and that's at the wheels not at the crank

Goose · 12-29-2003, 04:16 PM

nJay, I have'n say that ZGT will be fastes, but with my setup i will not destroy my engine at eny point,
More power same toyotaengine quality.
It is not a problem to get 270Hp fro a GT engine, but I am going to put onlky a turbo without any other engine changes.
196HP is just inuff to kip a engine running quality.