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Old 04-30-2005, 06:21 PM   #211
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Quote: Originally Posted by ming
the board is mounted on the back of the casing. second photo shows the whole board and 1st is how I soldered the resistor and capacitor -- the original resistor was removed. 3rd image shows where I grounded the cap on the back side.

Just successfully completed the mod to my 8" lilliput. I went the single 100 uF capacitor route. I spent about 20 minutes opening up my monitor and verifying by manually touching the capacitor to the appropriate points that it worked as intended. The careful soldering and then reassembling took about 10 minutes and I did an excellent job of the soldering even if I say so myself .

Thanks for the pictures. They were immensely useful as a guide.
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Old 04-30-2005, 06:24 PM   #212
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P.S. How does one remove the lcd ribbon cables (not the button cable). I thought I might need to as I pulled one end out slightly during disassembly. I couldn't work out from the minimal description in the lilliput faq how to remove the clip. In the end I gave up since my monitor was behaving fine as it was and I could complete the mod without disconnecting that cable.
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Old 04-30-2005, 07:42 PM   #213
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you need to flip up the little brown clip on the connector. it's very fragile and if I were you, I won't touch it unless I have to.
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Old 04-30-2005, 07:48 PM   #214
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Well, I'm not sure if I screwed up the mod and shorted one of the resistors next door to the one I was soldering to or if the 100 uF capacitor is too big as Coyote was concerned it might, but my menu button no longer works. The power button and the button to the left of the menu button (auto-configure) work normally (not sure if any of the others are supposed to do anything without the menu being up) but I can no longer get the menu button itself to work. But since I don't really care that I can't use that, I'm not going to bother taking the LCD apart to investigate. The auto-on mod is working for me so that's all I care about.

Anyone else gone the single-capacitor route so we can see if this is a normal side effect of the simpler approach?
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Old 05-01-2005, 04:00 PM   #215
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It was just the button ribbon cable being off by one. I couldn't find any posts describing it in detail (the FAQ was cleaned up and I think that's where it was described well). So I just opened it up and tried it in different positions. With it fully to the left (which didn't look much different to where it was originally), all the buttons are now working properly again. .
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Old 05-01-2005, 04:01 PM   #216
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So that's another vote for the simpler 100uF only solution...
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Old 05-02-2005, 12:28 AM   #217
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I just finished the mod with a 10uF cap and a 180K resistor. It is working perfectly.
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Old 05-06-2005, 10:30 AM   #218
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Thumbs up [B]Auto Power On New Lilliput - Programing Guide[/B]

Auto Power On New Lilliput - Programing Guide

For those of you who have the New Lilliput Model 629GL-70NP/C/T who are interested in getting it to Auto-Power On without having to rip it apart and solder. Here is a programing guide that's extremely simple. Remember this is for the NEW Lilliput Users not the older models. The units that look like this: http://www.newision.com/pro/629vt_b.jpg

Here is what you do. Take your time and pay attention.

Auto Power On New Lilliput - Programing Guide

You could try the following reset:

1.In VGA mode, SLOWLY Input "588998" to come into the "factory setup" with the remote control unit.

2.When the screen shows "--- - - - -", input "1270*10". The * means there are three modes you can choose: 0,1 and 2. If you choose 0, the monitor will go into standby mode when we switch on the power (default). Choose 1, the monitor will go into Power-On mode (This is what you want), and choose 2, it will go into the mode when you switch off the power.

In a nut shell you would enter "1270110" to activate the auto power on.

(Please note: If you setup on NW618TVT(with TV input) please input "1270111")

3. Press any number key to store the setup.

Enjoy! Isn't that much easier than ripping your unit apart?
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Old 05-06-2005, 11:26 AM   #219
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Now you tell us . I wonder if that would have worked with the new 8" - the model number is something like 619GL-80xxT (from memory so likely very inaccurate).
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Old 05-16-2005, 06:53 AM   #220
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Quote: Originally Posted by Arathranar
So that's another vote for the simpler 100uF only solution...

So capacitor only solution works for me too.
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Old 05-18-2005, 07:38 PM   #221
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Talking

o thank god! i got the new screen and i took it apart of course without breaking anything findout the circuits was different.. so i came here and now i find this useful piece of info! gotta luv the new screen and cant wait to put it together and fiberglass mold it into the center console =)
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Old 05-19-2005, 09:41 AM   #222
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Quote: Originally Posted by projectpcmr2
o thank god! i got the new screen and i took it apart of course without breaking anything findout the circuits was different.. so i came here and now i find this useful piece of info! gotta luv the new screen and cant wait to put it together and fiberglass mold it into the center console =)

You gota check out the other "auto power on" thread. All you have to do is punching the buttons on the remote not soldering stuff. Much safer.
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Old 05-23-2005, 11:09 PM   #223
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ok, i have an 8" lilliput that i basically screwed the cable up enough that i can't get and leds to light up or have the power turn on, so i need to do an autopower by soldering, only thing is my board is a little different than the one that ming did. can someone please tell me where i can connect the resistor to work on mine?



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Old 05-25-2005, 08:14 AM   #224
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Old 05-25-2005, 10:41 AM   #225
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http://www.stevegoodman.plus.com/for..._on_thread.jpg

They are using the same SyncCMOS chip, so find out which resistor is connected to the 2'nd pin down from the right hand side of the chip. That is the chip's input for the power button.

That's the one you need to add the capacitor to. Add a 100 - 150uF cap from ground to that pin on the chip or to the resistor it is tied to.
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