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Old 04-02-2004, 12:11 PM   #16
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I have no electronic experience....
can someone explain step by step?
take what to solder to what...
or please take a picture with finish result...
feel free to slap me too...
thanks...
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Old 04-02-2004, 12:14 PM   #17
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Sorry to say this but if you dont have any experience with an iron, dont start with a $300 screen! you might take this pic that Coyote provided and your screen and visit a electronics repair shop or maybe even the local high school. Sometimes the electronics teacher will let the more advanced students do this type of thing..I did when I was in school.

Either that or practice practice practice on old electronics before you attempt this.
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Old 04-02-2004, 12:16 PM   #18
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Go Coyote!!!
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Old 04-02-2004, 12:30 PM   #19
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Quote: Originally Posted by gospeed.racer
Sorry to say this but if you dont have any experience with an iron, dont start with a $300 screen! you might take this pic that Coyote provided and your screen and visit a electronics repair shop or maybe even the local high school. Sometimes the electronics teacher will let the more advanced students do this type of thing..I did when I was in school.

Either that or practice practice practice on old electronics before you attempt this.


well i soldered one modchip to my xbox...
is that good enough?
thanks....
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Old 04-02-2004, 12:50 PM   #20
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Quote: Originally Posted by icet
well i soldered one modchip to my xbox...
is that good enough?
thanks....

Just do it, worse comes to worse you have to buy a new one.
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Old 04-02-2004, 01:21 PM   #21
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soldering a modchip is good enough experience IMO... and if it's as hard as doing a PS2 then you're probably at the level of a pro...
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Old 04-02-2004, 01:50 PM   #22
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first time ever touch the solder iron, when i solder
my excuter 2.3b with xbox v1.5
took me 2 hrs with the d0 points....my eyes are crapping out on me...
well i had good instructions.....
thanks...
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Old 04-02-2004, 02:40 PM   #23
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Why not just hook the screen up to the yellow and black wire off of one of the molex connectors on the power supply?
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Old 04-02-2004, 03:31 PM   #24
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Quote: Originally Posted by XxAndyxX
Why not just hook the screen up to the yellow and black wire off of one of the molex connectors on the power supply?

And then do the auto-turn on mod????
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Old 04-02-2004, 04:22 PM   #25
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Quote: Originally Posted by XxAndyxX
Why not just hook the screen up to the yellow and black wire off of one of the molex connectors on the power supply?

Well because applying power to the monitor does not turn it on. You still have to press the 'on' button.
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Old 04-02-2004, 04:35 PM   #26
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yeah thats really awesome!
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Old 04-03-2004, 08:40 PM   #27
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I did it aswel and it works like a charm. It was kindof hard removing that resistor. What worked good for me was to take the soldering iron to the contact closes to me (in the picture) and once the solder was soft and molten I flicked upwards with the tip of the soldering iron.

Good Luck

Cheers
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Old 04-04-2004, 02:26 PM   #28
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after lcd-startup wrong screen resolution- why?

hi there,
does anybody know how i can solve this problem?
after autopower on the screen the computer boots and the screen adjusts to the resolution of 640x480 of the windows boot logo. when finished booting it doesent change to the res. of media engine wich is 800x600!
then i have to do power of and on the screen again and it works. is it possible to change the resolution of the windows bootlogo? then it has to adjusts to the bootlogo and is then ok for the mediaengine as well? how?
thanks for any help,
enzo
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:41 PM   #29
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Base on the mod, correct me if I am wrong.
Coyote just replace a 10K Resistor with a 150K Resistor and add a 10uF cap.
From there, The cap stores the charge for 1.5 second and discharge (that simulate the "button press"). I think you don't have to remove that 10K resistor, instead just add a 100uF cap (that is 1 second). It probably do the same thing. Solder point is the same thing.
Is that correct Coyote?
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Old 04-05-2004, 01:17 AM   #30
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Quote: Originally Posted by MatrixPC
Base on the mod, correct me if I am wrong.
Coyote just replace a 10K Resistor with a 150K Resistor and add a 10uF cap.
From there, The cap stores the charge for 1.5 second and discharge (that simulate the "button press"). I think you don't have to remove that 10K resistor, instead just add a 100uF cap (that is 1 second). It probably do the same thing. Solder point is the same thing.
Is that correct Coyote?


Yes but the problem is that 100uF begin to be a big capacitive load and can generate disturbances to other parts of the circuit and is dangerous for the lifetime of the power button . I think that 10uF is the limit.

Moreover, the 150K resistor is also the limit to pull up the uC input to 5V with a good stability.

They are the reasons of my choice of values.
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