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Old 04-22-2004, 10:31 PM   #1
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FAQ: Everything you need to know about your Lilliput

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Where to buy
http://store.mp3car.com/Monitors_and...reens_s/21.htm

Update Your Drivers
Download the drivers here or here.

Troubleshooting tips:
- Ensure the DIN connector is fully plugged in.
- Try pinching/sqeezing DIN connector (bad ground connection)
- Auto adjust
- Set refresh rate to 75Hz or higher to stop flickering
- Order a replacement ribbon cable (aka flexible printed cable) from www.digitalww.com.
- Ensure wires soldered to board
- Despite what the specs say on many of the auctions and even on the Lilliput website, the 618 and 619 do NOT support reverse X-axis or reverse y-axis (eg, to emulate a mirror or make image upside down). This is an error in their documentation.
- The 'USB' port on the side of the monitor isn't actually USB, it just looks like it. It's a special plug to give access to the auxillary inputs (like RCA).
- The RCA audio-in only works when you're in one of the RCA video-in modes, not in VGA. You can't use it as a small PC speaker while in VGA mode.

Power Tips/Issues
Auto-Power On Tutorial by coyote
Auto-power on and technical info:
Auto-Power
Power your Lilliput from your computer powersupply
The "Barrel plug" for your lilliput is an "M" size one at Radio Shack... 5.5mm OD 2.1mm ID (274-1569 @ Radioshack)

Powering your Lilliput from your opus: (from shchua)
You can power the Lilliput monitor directly from the Opus's regulated +12V output without going through the car cigarette adapter. Here's what I did - run two wires (18 AWG) from the Lilliput to the Opus. At the monitor end of the wire, solder a barrel plug ("M" size... 5.5mm OD 2.1mm ID) that fits into the monitor's DC in jack. At the Opus end, I soldered the wires into a Y power splitter (+ve to yellow and -ve to black) - the one that has a female connector that plugs into the Opus 4-pin power connector for hard disks and splits into 4-pin hard disk power connectors. This way you can disconnect the wire if you need to bring the PC into the house.

The tricky part is getting the polarity right. Measure the voltage at the barrel plug BEFORE plugging it into the Lilliput. The center connector (tip) should be +ve and the outer connector should be -ve.

Power consumption measurements and tech info:
http://www.carnetix.com/additional_i...llyCurrent.htm

What Resolution should you run?

Inputs
SVGA, RCA Composite, & VGA
If you want to extend the video/touchscreen breakout cable (the one that gives you your VGA plug), use a "9 Pin Mini-Din" cable. This may also be referred to as a 'bus mouse extension cable'. Don't confuse this with a normal PS/2 keyboard or mouse extension cable, they don't have enough pins and have a different shape inside.

Example cable: http://store.mp3car.com/9pin_Mini_di..._p/cbl-019.htm

Manufacture
http://www.lilliput.cn/products.htm

Taking It Apart
-----Write-up by Lopan-----
As far as taking the lilliput apart, remove the four screws on back, there are four clips in the plastic housing. 2 on top, 2 on bottom, just apply pressure to the top and use something like a credit card (not a screw driver, it'll chew your casing up) to pry it apart. Take your time, and be patient, basically you don't want to rip the wiring apart when it pops open, once you get the top the bottom will come loose much easier.

after you have the casing open you'll notice 4 small tabs holding the LCD, take a screw driver and loosen the screws, turn the tabs and the LCD will come loose.

As far as the ribbon cables go, for those that haven't encountered connections like these, don't just pull them out. You'll notice on the connector a little colar this needs to be popped up, (only on the housing button panel) once you slide the colar up the cable will be very easy to pull out.

The ribbon cable on the back of the LCD has a different connector, basically it has a little plastic piece that pivots up to release the ribbon cable use a small flathead screwdriver to gentle pry this up.

Important: Both kinds of ribbon cable connectors are delicate and easy to break so know how they release before trying anything. And NEVER try to force them.

basically now your LCD is free... to get the circuit board out youll see the four small screws like you removed from the back of the case... remove those NOT the silver screws (those hold the USB control board on, if I remember correctly).

After you get the circuit board free you'll notice that the 9 pin connector can't be remove from the case... Now... Spyhunter actually cut his case to get it out... however I kind of wanted to keep that intact, don't be scared, make a wiring diagram or follow the link to the WRX site in SPYHUNTERs writeup for wiring, this is quite possibly the easiest soldering job I ever encountered. Note the wires, peel off the hot glue, de-solder pull the cable out of the housing, re-solder and hot glue them back in place (the hot glue probably isn't that important but I personally wanted to insure they'd stay in place)

now both the LCD and circuit board are free... go crazy.

BTW: Don't go crazy when you power the lilliput and nothing happens, just reseat the ribbon cables, in specific the wide one is a REAL pita to get reseated properlly... I personally had to reseat it at least 3 times to get it to come back up. It works great now though.

.....more to come & Thanks to all those who have contributed!

Last edited by DarquePervert : 02-03-2008 at 07:41 AM. Reason: Updated link to drivers AGAIN!
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Old 04-22-2004, 10:53 PM   #2
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Troubleshooting tips:
- Ensure the DIN connector is fully plugged in.
- Try pinching/sqeezing DIN connector (bad ground connection)
- Auto adjust
- Set refresh rate to 75Hz or higher to stop flickering
- Order a replacement ribbon cable (aka flexible printed cable) from www.digitalww.com.
- Ensure wires soldered to board
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Old 04-22-2004, 10:54 PM   #3
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Auto-power on and technical info:
http://www.tmz.com/wrx/lilliputLCD.html

Power consumption measurements and tech info:
http://www.carnetix.com/additional_i...llyCurrent.htm
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Old 04-23-2004, 08:46 AM   #4
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Despite what the specs say on many of the auctions and even on the Lilliput website, the 618 and 619 do NOT support reverse X-axis or reverse y-axis (eg, to emulate a mirror or make image upside down).

This is an error in their documentation.
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Old 04-23-2004, 08:47 AM   #5
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The 'USB' port on the side of the monitor isn't actually USB, it just looks like it. It's a special plug to give access to the auxillary inputs (like RCA).
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Old 04-23-2004, 08:48 AM   #6
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The RCA audio-in only works when you're in one of the RCA video-in modes, not in VGA. You can't use it as a small PC speaker while in VGA mode.
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Old 04-23-2004, 08:51 AM   #7
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If you want to extend the video/touchscreen breakout cable (the one that gives you your VGA plug), use a "9 Pin Mini-Din" cable. This may also be referred to as a 'bus mouse extension cable'. Don't confuse this with a normal PS/2 keyboard or mouse extension cable, they don't have enough pins and have a different shape inside.

Example cable: http://www.computerplug.com/cable_mo...s-ext-tech.htm
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Old 04-24-2004, 12:37 PM   #8
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I think the digitalww Lilliput to In-dash Conversion How To has some of the best photos I ever seen
http://www.digitalww.com/VGA_Lillipu...ash_HowTo.html

Afraid it didn’t stop me from screwing up

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Old 04-25-2004, 04:00 PM   #9
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Quote: Originally Posted by STI_FFY
Remember to set "LCD" as the monitor type in the motherboard BIOS. Failure to do so can result in "over range" being displayed when attempting any resolution higher than 640X480.

This is actually very specific to Epia M series of motherboards (or better said to their onboard VGA) and thus it should be mentioned clearly. Its even specific to BIOS 1.13 only.
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Old 05-16-2004, 10:14 AM   #10
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Quote: Originally Posted by BlueAvatar
Does anyone know the native resolution of this display?

The Lilliput site says "Resolution: 1,152,000 pixels(2400X480 dots)" but that sounds really strange to me. Its not 4:3 or 16:9 ratios (standard or widescreen formats)...

On Lilliput, the spec is stated as 480 lines each composed of 800 red, 800 green and 800 blue dots = 2400 X 480.

On Earth that's 800 X 480, since we Earthlings don't access the red, green or blue "dots" individually.
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Old 05-16-2004, 09:16 PM   #11
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Lilliputs come with 2 different kinds of ribbon cables. Some have this one (pins facing opposite sides): http://digitalww.com/ribbon_cable_oppositeside.htm and this one (pins facing in the same direction): http://digitalww.com/ribbon_cable_sameside.htm
Armen

Quote: Originally Posted by nthai
Anyone who ever ordered the ribbon cable from digitalww please help... I pm'ed Armen, called, and checked the website to no available.

What should I do to order this cable?

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Last edited by digitalww : 08-05-2004 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 05-16-2004, 09:36 PM   #12
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LCD Panel Measurements

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Old 05-16-2004, 09:37 PM   #13
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Housing measurements

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Old 05-16-2004, 09:39 PM   #14
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VGA Controller Measurements

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Old 09-22-2004, 04:12 PM   #15
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I just solved a problem involving my lilliput and I thought I should post it in case it can help someone.

I installed the lilliput temporarily and connected the power to the cigar lighter. I soon find out that my system that never had a noise before now has a serious alternator whine.
I cut the wire and connected ( both 12v and ground) to the distribution block were the inverter/ITPS combo are connected. The noise remained.
Finally I did what I planned from the beginning and didn’t do because of the temporary nature of the installation, cut the egg regulator off and wired the power ( 12v and ground) directly to one of the 12v connectors on the ATX PSU. Cool.. Noise no more...

My system:
Distribution block to bat
ITPS connected to Distribution block and acc and controlling a relay.
Inverter with the 12v from the Distribution block thru the relay.
All with common ground on a bolt and less than 30 cm cable.

AMD board with 90W atx psu, vga and onboard sound, 3.5 HDD and no optical drive.
Onboard sound connected to aux in, on head unit.

7" Lilliput.

Now working smoothly
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