Lilliput In Dash conversion question

patrol · 09-06-2004, 08:42 PM

Hi All
I just completed my Lilliput in-dash conversion and I am very pleased with the result. For those thinking about this mod, just do it.

I am preparing a site with pics and a few pointers to add to the already very comprehensive Digital WW site, will post the link soon.

Anyway my question is about the power cable that came with the in dash housing. It has a filter and fuse on it. Is it worth while leaving it on? what does it do exactly?

I have left it on and it works fine but I was just curious.
Cheers

Troy McClure · 09-07-2004, 09:59 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by patrol

Hi All
I just completed my Lilliput in-dash conversion and I am very pleased with the result. For those thinking about this mod, just do it.

I am preparing a site with pics and a few pointers to add to the already very comprehensive Digital WW site, will post the link soon.

Anyway my question is about the power cable that came with the in dash housing. It has a filter and fuse on it. Is it worth while leaving it on? what does it do exactly?

I have left it on and it works fine but I was just curious.
Cheers

I'm anxious to read your review. I want to do this myself but the digitalww site does not have any in stock though it says they should have some today. We shall see.

As for the power cord, yes it is required. It stabilizes the voltage to keep it clean at 12v as our cars vary. Here is food for thought for you. The way I did it is I installed a connecter (the same type as the Lilliput power connecter, for consistency) to the back of my computer and borrowed 12v from the compuer's power supply. Obviously it is a clean power source and since the Lilliput only requires 8w it's no big thing. Now I only have 1 power source that I have to connect for the whole system. I also like the fact that when I shut the computer off, the monitor turns off also. No thinking about leaving anything on to drain the battery.

Troy

Troy McClure · 09-07-2004, 04:39 PM

Call me a wimp but I spoke to Armin today and he is going to do the conversion for me. His price to do the work vs. me was too hard to pass up. I'm definitely able to do the conversion on my own but sometimes it's just easier to have someone else do it.

Anyways, it's already shipped out to him and I can't wait to get it back in a week or so and complete my install with the finished look.

Troy

kickercivic1 · 09-07-2004, 05:14 PM

how much is he charing?

kickercivic1 · 09-07-2004, 05:23 PM

nevermind mine is going out tommorrow... cant wait to get it back.

patrol · 09-07-2004, 08:12 PM

Hi Troy
I think you are talking about the regulator on the lilliput power cable, I have installed that as well, I know how important that one is, but the power cable for the housing has some sort of noise filter on it.

I will have the guide up this weekend but sounds like you have allready decided to buy one ready made. I think the price is $50 extra to get on ready made, thats not a lot to pay if you had any doubts about doing it yourself.

I am really hapy with mine, I love the fact that the housing allows the screen to be tilted and swiveled quite a few degress. You can really make the screen easier to see when it is facing you directly. Also on sunny days you can tilt it out of direct sunlight. It great.

Cheers

Troy McClure · 09-08-2004, 02:37 PM

Patrol,

Ahh, I am not exactly familiar with the piece you are referring to I believe it may be one of those polarity doo-hickies. I just love my technical terms. Maybe one of the more educated guys can give some insight here but I've seen them on some keyboards and mice, suppose to keep voltage aligned or cleaned or something.

Good info about the swiveling/tilting of the in-dash housing. I did not realize that it did that. makes me even happier about my purchase. Can't wait to get it back!

Troy

kiltjim · 09-08-2004, 04:20 PM

I did the same conversion myself, and the little black box thingy with the fuse in it is just a big inductor. Thats it. I ripped it apart, and I never found anything more in depth than that. All it does is clean up the signal a slight bit. Again, maybe someone with more knowledge on the subject can clarify, but it doesn't even regulate voltage. The lilliput really needs a regulated 12v to operate correctly, and at the designed brightness.

for "egg", or "lilliput egg" and you'll see everyones opinion on it. (It's the same thing, sort of)

The Grinch · 09-09-2004, 04:22 PM

I've done the in-dash conversion and replaced almost all the wiring with my own. I have a real VGA connector and a seperate USB cable for the touch screen.

As far as power goes, I read too many posts by people that were unhappy with the "egg". So I decided to just not use it. I tapped into one of the hard drive connectors of my OPUS power supply to get my regulated 12 volts. Then I did the auto power-on mod, so when the system turns on it automatically powers the up my screen. I'm a happy camper.

Avalerion · 09-09-2004, 07:26 PM

Question regarding a tap into the molex connector of the PSU.
When you chop off the end of the cigarette lighter (I HATE THE EGG) and have the two wires split, which do you wire them to? I'm aware that one goes to the +12 (Yellow) and the other to the Ground (Black)... Which wire goes where? And what's the best way of connecting the wires into the molex connector?

PaCMaYNE · 09-09-2004, 07:48 PM

get a voltmeter and check the cables,, most likely the black with white stripe is positive,, as far as wiring,, i would cut off the molex and hardwire those bastards together,, and ground to the chassis

archimense · 09-09-2004, 07:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Avalerion

Question regarding a tap into the molex connector of the PSU.
When you chop off the end of the cigarette lighter (I HATE THE EGG) and have the two wires split, which do you wire them to? I'm aware that one goes to the +12 (Yellow) and the other to the Ground (Black)... Which wire goes where? And what's the best way of connecting the wires into the molex connector?

Buy yourself some molex connectors and wire one where the cigratte lighter plug was.

kickercivic1 · 09-09-2004, 08:01 PM

arch you lost me on there??? why would you need a molex connector if you are going to plug to a 12+ thats comes from cigratte lighter.

archimense · 09-09-2004, 08:04 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by kickercivic1

arch you lost me on there??? why would you need a molex connector if you are going to plug to a 12+ thats comes from cigratte lighter.

What I meant was when you cut off the cigarette power adapter and just have the positive and negative power wires, you should wire them into a molex connector. That way you can just plug it into the molex connector of the PSU.

No reason to go splicing wires in your PSU when molex connectors are already there for plugging things in.

neosen · 09-09-2004, 08:14 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by archimense

What I meant was when you cut off the cigarette power adapter and just have the positive and negative power wires, you should wire them into a molex connector. That way you can just plug it into the molex connector of the PSU.

No reason to go splicing wires in your PSU when molex connectors are already there for plugging things in.

for car use i perfer hardwiring or using molex connectors with plastic hooks(that allow the m/f to clip onto each other), its too easy for a male and female molex (standard computer) to slowly wiggle away from each other and leave you ****ed off and have to pull out half of the system trying to find the problem

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