A different way to Auto – Power – On your lilliput - Page 2

Blue ZX3 · 05-01-2005, 01:57 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Arathranar

One comment - when it's in standby mode like that the lilliput is still drawing about 1/2 it's normal current draw - around 400mA if I remember correctly.

No, its not drawing anything( I could be wrong, I haven't actually pulled out my meter and checked). Its connected to the 12v rail...so when the computer goes into standby mode the power gets cut...??

Quote: Originally Posted by Arathranar

So you better have a big battery connected or you'll be in trouble. Check the lilliput FAQ for exact values

Yes, I do....I have a Yellow Top :P

intense · 05-01-2005, 02:20 AM

Blue ZX3 - I am not going to leave my pc in standby so I don't think your trick would work for me. As for the trick itself, I am a little confused as once the power is cut the lilliput would return to standby (red led) once powered on again. Maybe you can explain how it is hooked up?

Arathranar -
Never said it was simpler or easier, yes it does require an additional part and a couple more solder points. Like I said before I rather work on non-vital parts of the monitor rather than the main PCB itself. It is safer this way regardless of your soldering skill. If I am not mistaken didn't you post this in the other coyote thread? "Well, I'm not sure if I screwed up the mod and shorted one of the resistors next door to the one I was soldering to or if the 100 uF capacitor is too big as Coyote was concerned it might, but my menu button no longer works."

Blue ZX3 · 05-01-2005, 02:33 AM

Ok...."I am a little confused as once the power is cut the lilliput would return to standby (red led)" this would be the first thought...me too. When I noticed this my first thought was that the PSU was leaving a slight voltage on the rail, so I pulled the power plug out of the screen when it was on waited a little and then pluged it back in and to my surprise it came right back on, just as it was before I pulled the cord...I haven't changed anything on/in the screen, its stock..

Arathranar · 05-01-2005, 02:37 AM

Yes

. But that doesn't bother me. It would be trivial to remove the capacitor I added if I did care. For all I know, it's just a result of dismantling the lcd and unplugging the cables. Perhaps the main lcd cable I very slightly pulled out during disassembly is the cause of the problem...

So you're saying you prefer doing it this way because you've only soldering on the button pcb, which is fair enough. Still not risk free though (see above).

Arathranar · 05-01-2005, 02:41 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Blue ZX3

Ok...."I am a little confused as once the power is cut the lilliput would return to standby (red led)" this would be the first thought...me too. When I noticed this my first thought was that the PSU was leaving a slight voltage on the rail, so I pulled the power plug out of the screen when it was on waited a little and then pluged it back in and to my surprise it came right back on, just as it was before I pulled the cord...I haven't changed anything on/in the screen, its stock..

I think you are just lucky. Someone else claimed they had a Lilliput that auto powered on without the mod. Maybe yours is another of those special ones

kingtut · 05-01-2005, 02:42 AM

Thanks man, this more than I have hoped for. Cristal clear. Hats off.

Arathranar: I have an 8" Lil, I can't do the coyote hack, it is not an option, I know some folks here did it for the 8", but I'll not take a chance, cutting a resistor is risk, using or connecting a cap the wrong way could screw the screen. intense's way could be applied easly to any device, not just the Lil also, it keeps the electronic mess out of the device, if you screw any thing, it would be limited to 5 bucks worth of parts. One more thing, with this option you don't have to remove the screen and disconnect the PITA thin connector and make sure it is pluged on the left side since the cable has less wires than the actual connectors, go back and read all related postes, all the problems people have are related to reconnecting the screen to the controler while intense's way leaves the screen alone since the button PCB is stand alone. Jusct my 2 C

intense · 05-01-2005, 02:45 AM

Blue ZX3 - I think you might have a newer revision of the lilliput that doesn't require the auto-power-on modification. Some of the newer revisions supposedly turn on themselves when power is applied.

Blue ZX3 · 05-01-2005, 02:50 AM

SO...there are diff versions of this screen...maybe I have the newer version...

If anyone reading this tread, is an electronics junkie, then my thought on why this does this would be that maybe they used a flip-flop circuit for the power button...

Actually...anyone with some skill could add this too...all it would take is a single chip..cause the chip stays in the same state on matter how matter how many you power it on/off...

Blue ZX3 · 05-01-2005, 02:52 AM

I doesn't always power on everytime it gets powered up...it just returns to the previous state...

Blue ZX3 · 05-01-2005, 03:00 AM

which is nice cause I have my bios set to wake up every day in the morning and then I have a sync prog run on my desktop to update any music that i added to my collection...then after the idle time has expired the car goes back into standby...anyway...

The only time I turn off my screen is at night so that when it comes on in the morning it doesn't require as much power for a srceen that hopefully no one is looking at...LOL

Arathranar · 05-01-2005, 03:26 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by kingtut

One more thing, with this option you don't have to remove the screen and disconnect the PITA thin connector and make sure it is pluged on the left side since the cable has less wires than the actual connectors, go back and read all related postes, all the problems people have are related to reconnecting the screen to the controler while intense's way leaves the screen alone since the button PCB is stand alone. Jusct my 2 C

Perhaps that's all I did. Maybe I'll check for that. But the cable I had to disconnect / reconnect after was the one to the button PCB and as far I recall you'd still have to disconnect that to do this external mod.

But I can certainly see the advantage of the electrical isolation a (properly connected) relay can give.

intense · 05-01-2005, 03:27 AM

no prob kingtut, let me know how it works if you get it running before I do LOL.

Arathranar · 05-01-2005, 03:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Arathranar

Perhaps that's all I did. Maybe I'll check for that. But the cable I had to disconnect / reconnect after was the one to the button PCB and as far I recall you'd still have to disconnect that to do this external mod.
But I can certainly see the advantage of the electrical isolation a (properly connected) relay can give.

It was just the ribbon cable being off by one.

. Thanks for reminding me - I couldn't find any posts describing it in detail (the FAQ was cleaned up and I think that's where it was described well). So I just opened it up and tried it in different positions.

intense · 05-03-2005, 11:52 PM

so I had a chance to play around with this circuit. If you are planning running this set-up I would recommend a capacitor between the values of 4k - 5k uf. This will simulate a 2 second button press. 1k uf wont hold down the button long enough. I will change the diagrams later. I also think the resistor value might change. but it works fine with 10k.

Arathranar · 05-04-2005, 02:21 AM

Why do you need to simulate a 2 second button press? That's way longer than a real button press is and that itself is way longer than it actually needs to be to trigger the power on. Anyway, the 100 uF and the existing 10k resistor is working peachy for me