Modding the new Motorized VGA Screens - Page 3

Wiredwrx · 05-19-2005, 04:53 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by SAPiens

Well, the jumper would be trigered before the main power is cut. Look at the different timer settings. You could for example let the switch be triggered 5 secs after the ign is off and then after 45 the power is complete cut off.

Besides, if you wire the units acc line to the one of the car, it should retract automatically when turning ign off, right? That was never a problem, the only problem was getting it to open correctly

Yes, what you are saying is correct. What I was refering to was "I don't see the clock as a big issue because I could cut the power to the unit completely"

How would you accomplish that. If the power is cut to the unit, the unit can not retract, because the power line must be high to power the unit.

Now that I think about it, it may not be that hard. What I would do is use the MTX J8 to hit the button to open and close. Then, tie the switched and constant power of the unit together, through a relay. Then have the relay activated by the 12 volt rail of the MTX. In that way, when the MTX gets it's ign signal, it will energize the relay, and then J8 will "press" the button and extend the unit. When the MTX loses the ign, J8 will again be "pressed" closing the unit. Once the timer has elapsed, the MTX will shut down the voltages, and the realy will no longer be energized, and everything should be fine.

Let me know if you do it, and what happens.

Michael

SAPiens · 05-20-2005, 02:23 AM

I was thinking more in the lines of this:

Connect the ign of the car to the ign of the screen. Power the 12V through the M1. Hook up the J8 to the open/close button. IMO this will do the following:
- Ignition of the car powers on the screen and the M1. J8 will be triggered(I think immediatly) to open and close the unit. However because the unit hasn't had time to power on fully, the J8 will do nothing ==> problem.
- When the key comes out of the ignition, J8 will be triggered and the unit will close. A few seconds after that(depending on settings of M1) the power will be completely cut ==> Lights and clock are out, screen is retracted ==> ok.

To overcome the first problem I was thinking of one of those things that delay a signal. As you can see I'm not in any way electrically gifted, this is purely deducted from logic and your own post with the explanation. If you could point me to "one of those things that delay a signal" that would be a great help and then I might consider to do it.

If anything in this post doesn't compute, or there is no such thing as "one of those things that delay a signal" then I don't mind pressing the button of the screen

. At least the retracting and the power cut will work.

Edit: I think my car has different ingition lines, if I can find one for the screen that is triggered before the ignition of the M1 then I'm in the clear.

< Of to find detailed schematics of the car>.

maxxell · 05-22-2005, 01:11 PM

Maybe I'm over my head posting here, but I had a thought maybe one of you could perfect.

I have an Opus 150. I know it has a 2-wire lead to the mobo that simulates a power button press to turn on / off the car. Could you somehow tap that line? Seems ideal to open the screen when the computer turns on, and close the screen when the 'puter turns off.

techy101 · 05-24-2005, 07:59 PM

I talked to the other lady at DigitalWW (Marina i think her name was, sorry for the bad memory) and she said that Armen is working with the engineer who make these screens to get solid mods too fix the discussed problems. She said that he has the plans, he's just gotta do them and make sure that they are solid fixes and whatnot. Said it should be done within a week. Hopefully this will come thru. Just thought I'd let you know. And if i'm re-posting something, im sorry.

Wiredwrx · 05-24-2005, 08:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by techy101

I talked to the other lady at DigitalWW (Marina i think her name was, sorry for the bad memory) and she said that Armen is working with the engineer who make these screens to get solid mods too fix the discussed problems. She said that he has the plans, he's just gotta do them and make sure that they are solid fixes and whatnot. Said it should be done within a week. Hopefully this will come thru. Just thought I'd let you know. And if i'm re-posting something, im sorry.

Sounds great. Can;t wait to see what the fix will be.

Michael

Wiredwrx · 05-25-2005, 01:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by techy101

I talked to the other lady at DigitalWW (Marina i think her name was, sorry for the bad memory) and she said that Armen is working with the engineer who make these screens to get solid mods too fix the discussed problems. She said that he has the plans, he's just gotta do them and make sure that they are solid fixes and whatnot. Said it should be done within a week. Hopefully this will come thru. Just thought I'd let you know. And if i'm re-posting something, im sorry.

Actually, it looks like th fix is a completely different unit. That sucks I guess.

Michael

digitalww · 05-25-2005, 01:35 PM

No the fix is for this monitor. The engineer doesn't speak English so I am talking through some one. Here is what I got from them (attached). This turns off the eject button when the car is OFF. The engineer keeps saying that it should also turn off the power button but it doesn't. On the diagram look all the way to the right. Cut the vertical trace going to R46 and reconnect R46 with R44.

The clock is a little harder to do so they are still working on it. Some components need to be removed. They are changing the main PCB to incorporate these features. This will means that new monitors should have this fixed but I am trying to get them to think of something for the current monitors.

Armen

Quote: Originally Posted by Wiredwrx

Actually, it looks like th fix is a completely different unit. That sucks I guess.

Michael

Wiredwrx · 05-25-2005, 02:44 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by digitalww

No the fix is for this monitor. The engineer doesn't speak English so I am talking through some one. Here is what I got from them (attached). This turns off the eject button when the car is OFF. The engineer keeps saying that it should also turn off the power button but it doesn't. On the diagram look all the way to the right. Cut the vertical trace going to R46 and reconnect R46 with R44.

The clock is a little harder to do so they are still working on it. Some components need to be removed. They are changing the main PCB to incorporate these features. This will means that new monitors should have this fixed but I am trying to get them to think of something for the current monitors.

Armen

Armen,

Thanx so much for this information. I will test it tonight. Just to confirm, I should cut the trace coming from J7 leading to R46 (Where on the PDF there seems to be a "blob" of red) and then connect R44 to R46. Should I tap before or after R44?

As for the Clock, truth is, my solution is working for now, so I won't complain if that can't be resolved. However, are they also working on an auto extend/eject for the current units. I would think it is just a matter or a reprogram of the PIC or Micro controler. But, I really don't know all that much in general.

Michael

ccsnet · 06-03-2005, 05:29 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by digitalww

No the fix is for this monitor. The engineer doesn't speak English so I am talking through some one. Here is what I got from them (attached). This turns off the eject button when the car is OFF. The engineer keeps saying that it should also turn off the power button but it doesn't. On the diagram look all the way to the right. Cut the vertical trace going to R46 and reconnect R46 with R44.

The clock is a little harder to do so they are still working on it. Some components need to be removed. They are changing the main PCB to incorporate these features. This will means that new monitors should have this fixed but I am trying to get them to think of something for the current monitors.

Armen

Are you going to indicate on your site which have the fix and which dont when buying ?

Terran

TIMMAY!!! · 06-03-2005, 07:27 AM

Does anyone have any other schematics? Particularly for the front panel control board (where the clock is mounted)
I'm about to begin my mods also (old-school component tech myself) and any manufacturer supplied info would be helpful. The Mods I am planning are simple, Using the diagram already on this thread to turn off the stupid eject light,(although I may prefer to just dim it to almost nothing by replacing R46 with a much higher value and carry over the trace, isolated with a diode, so it's full-bright when on, so I can find the button when it's really dark in the car, but would not be so damned noticable) and also the power light and clock display, I could care less about auto-open (I can push a button, It won't kill me, plus, I still have a head-unit, so I don't want it open all the time)
I will take my time and try to carefully document as simple a solution as I can find, I don't plan to kill the clock, just turn off the backlight when the unit is off.
My intention is to make the unit behave like I would expect dependant on the state of the ACC+ lead, just like every other head unit on the planet.

Just what the HELL were these guys thinking when they designed this unit? These are dumb mods to have to make to anything designed to go into a dashboard of a car! (voiding any warrantee) This sucks. (sorry, needed to vent)

TIMMAY!!!

Evo · 06-09-2005, 05:38 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Wiredwrx

Armen,

Thanx so much for this information. I will test it tonight. Just to confirm, I should cut the trace coming from J7 leading to R46 (Where on the PDF there seems to be a "blob" of red) and then connect R44 to R46. Should I tap before or after R44?

As for the Clock, truth is, my solution is working for now, so I won't complain if that can't be resolved. However, are they also working on an auto extend/eject for the current units. I would think it is just a matter or a reprogram of the PIC or Micro controler. But, I really don't know all that much in general.

Michael

Wiredwrx,

I have done the mod as indicated on the diagram and can confirm that you cut the feed from J7 to the left side of R46 and then connect left side of R46 to the right side of R44.

The mod works no more annoyingly bright blue open button

Wiredwrx · 06-09-2005, 05:46 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Evo

Wiredwrx,

I have done the mod as indicated on the diagram and can confirm that you cut the feed from J7 to the left side of R46 and then connect left side of R46 to the right side of R44.

The mod works no more annoyingly bright blue open button

Cool, thanx.

Michael

rdc_3200 · 06-12-2005, 06:37 PM

Armen,

Any progress with the mods?

abinns · 06-19-2005, 10:33 PM

I have this monitor and also want to hear if there are any updates...

Are there?

bd3521 · 06-24-2005, 11:39 PM

bump