WOOHOO! UPDATE- It's working! -- HELP! Ugly picture - sharp LQ9D161 and Allens Cont - Page 2

mp3z24 · 02-15-2002, 01:26 PM

paulyz...
i have the same screen on order from DennisK and i have been in contact with him several times since my auction ended approximately 2 weeks ago. it seems that he had a backorder problem with the hirose cables and was unable to ship out the screens in a timely manner. he has repeatedly reassured me that the cables are on the way and the entire kit will be shipped out soon. i know it really sucks waiting around for a new toy, im in the same boat as you. but, he seems to be a good seller and others on the board have recived things from him. i wouldnt worry about it unless you dont get anything for a month or so. you coule email him, and ask the status of your purchase, you have every right to ask, but dont be rude about it!! if you do email him, make sure to include the auction number!!!

still waiting..
~mike

PaulzY · 02-15-2002, 02:05 PM

ive emailed him a few times politely, asking if he had recieved payment, or if he has sent it, but no response, (included item #) so ill guess il wait bit more. i dont mind if it takes a while just wish he would reply.

also he said it comes with a inverter so hopefully i wont run into these troubles, and i hope you yours workin pigseye, as Meatballman's looks good. (lol @ referring to these nicknames.)

[ 02-15-2002: Message edited by: PaulzY ]

pigseye · 02-15-2002, 07:23 PM

Hi Paulzy,
Yeah I called him on the phone to get clarification on another question and he filled me in on the status. He seems like a good guy.

At the time he had a real bad cold and fell behind in all his shipments. He said he couldn't even get caught up. To me that means you should stop placing auctions until you are caught up, but hey, that's me.

He also told me that if you ordered a controller card it would at least 2 weeks longer than normal because he was getting the card from another state and had to get everything bundled together.

My LCD order was w/o a controller card so I got it in a couple weeks.

Chances are he just got swamped with orders and never got caught up. Again, He sure seemd like a straight shooter and a good guy, Just a little over committed.

If you don't hear from him in a couple of weeks I'd call him up.

Now about the LCD and Allen's controller combo, it's still not working. I'm not sure what to do now. I'm going to take a look at the 5v verus 3.3v output thing to see if that makes a difference. Kind of makes sense though since if the picture is fading in the movie (like fade to black) It looks great for a second before going black.

I'll keep plugging away and get back to you guys.

Thanks,
Pigseye

pigseye · 02-15-2002, 07:30 PM

Infrared,

re:
"hmm.. wouldn't one want to try and connect most significant bits rather than the lower significant bits? The reason I say this is because suppose the color is color 110000 in binary (48).. if you connect the 4 least significant bits you would connect the pins that are 0000, therefore showing 0 when the color should be 48.. Is this right? It makes sense but I dunno.. theres really no harm such as frying your LCD or controller so doesnt hurt trying (unless you permanently soldered all the junk already):

I don't know much about LCDs so I'm here to learn It makes sense to me but since I don't uderstand I believe whatever people tell me.

Can any one comment on Infrared's suggesetion? What he's saying is connect

r0 to r2
r1 to r3
r2 to r4
r3 to r5...

Thanks,
Pigseye

toto3 · 02-16-2002, 06:58 AM

First of all Meatballman! . if you are reading this, we need your help..

reporting back: (i believe i have find some thing that we should look into !! )
droping the voltage down with a resistor does not work !! .. (with 400k ohm at 3.6v lcd act like no power is applied) But this doesn't mean the color prob.. has not thing to do with the 5v and 3.3. check out:http://www.cellcomputing.com/eoled_p...ardpc-eol.html go down the page read *2 (I don't know what this is, i am no EE type but I E-mail the company about the schematic. cos the link to it is dead!!) (I guess the reason voltage drop with a resistor don't work is the same reason this 5V to 3.3V level shifter is needed, what ever it is.. hehe) also *4 might be something to be look into..?? (I think is for higher bit LCD connecting to "low" bit tft borad so........ )

some thing more to look into. !! I believe allen's controller can "do" the 3.3v for our LCD. There is a 8 pin SM chip "1120" by Texas Instruments,(marking on chip "1120 8at ayre") i believe this chip "process" the 5v for the LCD to use.(why is this needed i don't know) I think i find pdf for this chip. I might be wrong. From the "1120" pdf here http://www-s.ti.com/sc/ds/tps1120.pdf from my sucky English i believe it can process 3v and 5v, so there for if we drop the voltage before the "1120" to 3.3v .. IT will be all good !!!! ?? .. ( if that is the case we would have to look at R55 and R56 ) please !! any pro or EE majors help us out here !!!

hehhee..... I have just think of an other way for us the see if the VCC voltage for LCD is our prob... hehe..hhehee.. Calling Meatballman !!!! .. i holp you are reading !! Sice you have a setup with 3.3v or 5v select able. It will be alot of help if you can select 5v and power it up, to see if the color is UGLY!!! .. if yes !! well this is our prob !! . Simple!! Can't believe i didn't think of this earlier. Meatballman .. since we know 5v won't kill the lcd can you please try this and let us know ?? .. it will help us alot .. ! .. if it damaged the LCD in any way, i will replace your LCD .. I got a few here .. hehee..

ok so... tired now... I will report back about replacing R55 and R56 .. but i really need help on this... please help us out by read the pdf for the 1120 chip. Let me know if we are on to something or........... it is ok, i can take it.. : )

again sorry for my bad engish and my poor electronics skill..
( pigseye thanx for the kind words about my eglish, it might look "ok" , but you won't believe how much time it took me to "put" this toghter.. hahhaa..

(oh see the Classified - For Sale part fo the forum for my 10" touch lcd on sale now )

[ 02-16-2002: Message edited by: toto3 ]

darkwingduck · 02-16-2002, 07:41 AM

Well i just recieved my controller from Allen, but unfortunately his diagram over the tft display pinouts doesnt work at present, could someone please post the diagram off the pinouts

Meatballman · 02-16-2002, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by toto3:
<STRONG>Calling Meatballman !!!! .. i holp you are reading !! Sice you have a setup with 3.3v or 5v select able. It will be alot of help if you can select 5v and power it up, to see if the color is UGLY!!!
</STRONG>

toto3, I just tried it at 5V and the color looks exactly the same.

I guess that is not your problem. I will post my exact pinout a little later so you can compare.

Could it possibly be your backlight inverter?

[ 02-16-2002: Message edited by: Meatballman ]

littlej · 02-16-2002, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pigseye:
<STRONG>Infrared,

Can any one comment on Infrared's suggesetion? What he's saying is connect

r0 to r2
r1 to r3
r2 to r4
r3 to r5...
</STRONG>

The theory is right. You should use the most significate bits first. That may fix you're whites being yellow, etc...

I also have that screen. I'm not using it because it is a 12-bit screen (as mentioned by infrared earlier). Being 12-bit there is a total of 4096 different colours that can be displayed. The 12-bits have to be divided evenly bewtween red, green and blue given 4-bits of diversity in each colour. So each colour has 16 different possbilities (or shades). To get any decent picture on a DVD I would think that at least a 16-bit screen would be needed.

Sorry to be the bringer of bad news...

pigseye · 02-16-2002, 02:15 PM

littlej,
I appreciate your response. It gives me confidence to try rewiring the cable.

I'm not to concerned about DVD picture looking great or perfect. Just want it to look decent or acceptable. What I've seen so far is OK. Heck it's going in my car. It's not a theater system.

Plus how often will I be watching DVD movies in my car anyway. It's mainly just to say I did it and for relatively cheap.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Thanks,
pigseye

[ 02-16-2002: Message edited by: pigseye ]

Meatballman · 02-17-2002, 12:52 AM

Here's the pinout for the serial cable:

Also, here's a link to the pdf I pulled that out of:

pigseye · 02-17-2002, 12:55 AM

Thanks Meatball! This is great!

Pigseye

LESLIEx317537 · 02-17-2002, 02:45 AM

Pigseye,

For $25.00 + shipping I can sell you the MicroTouch serial cable. It even has a dc input jack for power if you need.

I had to order a couple for a minimum order.

Meatballman · 02-17-2002, 12:58 PM

I'm a taker...you've got mail.

kardas · 02-17-2002, 03:15 PM

i also need any cabels needed to run this screen, a hirose and a touchscreen i think is all i need, please tell me if i need more

any help with where i can get these cables would be great

thanks kardas

toto3 · 02-17-2002, 07:22 PM

guys, i am here to confirm this does work!
TAllen's
Controller/ LQ9D161

r0/ nc
r1/ nc
r2/ r0
r3/ r1
r4/ r2
r5/ r3

I am now looking at my Lq9d161 with "beautiful" true 12bit color.. wow... haha
I got to admit that when i first suggested to connect it like that, I have no idea why.. hehe.. well as long as it turn out "good"

Meatballman. Thanx for trying out the 5v for me.. (what you guys think the prolong 5v usage on it? I mean the Vcc is officially 3.3v )
guys if we can built our tft cable(31 wires) why not the touch cabel !!? ..

[ 02-17-2002: Message edited by: toto3 ]

Update!

LCD working! touch screen working! .. DVD looks not bad at all! having a "hard" time doing Double click tho..

I am very happy with the setup.. thanx all for the help.

davies

[ 02-18-2002: Message edited by: toto3 ]