Ah! My LCD won't work

infrared · 03-28-2002, 12:26 AM

Hey guys..

I was testing out my LCD today with the ruble controller and it basically would show one frame in the beginning when power was applied to the ruble controller but then it begins to fade out to a black screen. The hirose cable is professional, and don't think its the problem because if I unplug it and plug it back in while the ruble controller is powered, it still shows a black screen. Maybe my VGA -> Ruble cable might be messed up, but I've used this cable before with the controller and never had this problem. Could I have screwed the controller up some how? What happens is I power the controller and it shows one frame from the computer (the one its at when it powers up) but then within 5 seconds fades to black.. if I'm moving the mouse around while its fading out, the picture is still that frame. Could my sync on my vga cable not be hooked up? I am about to go test the cable..

Jason

infrared · 03-28-2002, 12:43 AM

Just tested my VGA->Controller cable and it works fine with no shorts or anything so the problem must be elsewhere..

jason

infrared · 03-28-2002, 01:33 PM

Ok some more info..

This same setup used to work with my ghetto cable I made at home (hirose) but then I can't test it with that anyy more because half the pins became unsoldered. Could either the enable or the sync's on the LCD or controller be messed up? How can I test this?

Also, the hirose cable I have now is meant for the LQ9D161 and my LCD is a LQ9D03B.. All the pin outs are the same except for pin 18! On this cable, 18 is NC (because it is a TEST pin on the LQ9D161) but on mine it should be ground.. Could this be the problem? Does the LCD tie all the GND's together or does it use each one individually?

Also, I think I fed reverse polarity to the ruble controller for about 10 seconds.. However, everything on it seems to work still (output voltages, the one frame is clear and looks exactly like ti should, etc.).. Hopefully I didn't screw up the controller!

Jason

infrared · 03-28-2002, 06:31 PM

I did some testing with my multimeter and found:

- The Vcc lines have 5 volts initially, but as soon as I put my multimeter to them, it starts dropping toward 0

- Even after the Vcc lines drop to 0, the CLK line still shows ~2.35 on my multimeter (this is what it should be right? Since it keeps oscillating between 0 and 5?)

- The ENAB has +5 volts, I think even after Vcc drops to 0

If I plug in my LCD and then disconnect the power from it, the same effects are present as if I just leave the power connected.. This is telling me that the cause of the problem is the Vcc lines dropping to 0..

Do any of you know why these lines are not remaining +5? Could a cap or something similar be bad?

Thanks!

Jason

infrared · 04-01-2002, 03:27 PM

TTT... anyone have any clue what components coudl be bad?

Thanks
Jason

pigseye · 04-04-2002, 08:11 PM

Dude,
Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner. Are you still having problems with your LCD?

Here's some of my experience.

Using the LQ9D161 and the RUble controller, I accidently hooked up the cable backwards and was getting wierd behavior on the LCD and then it blew out the controller for good. The LCD was OK.

Sounds like you're still getting a picture than a fade to black.

Regarding connecting pin 18 to ground, generally, ground is ground so you should be able to jumper the pin 18 on the LCD to another ground on the same connector and basically get the same result. Now I'm not an expert so please check it out before you do anything. I don't want you to blow out you LCD or controller if they both work.

I'm not sure I can help you much more. Shoot me an email. maybe we can discuss it that way.

Pigseye

Arby · 04-04-2002, 08:44 PM

I did the EXACT SAME THING. I accidentally switched the +12V and GND for a while, and now nothing works anymore.

infrared · 04-05-2002, 03:46 AM

pigseye, I hooked up the pin to ground, and still the same problems.. do you still have the LCD controller you blew out?

arby, doh that bites! what problems were you having? weird thing is, my controller still outputs regulated voltages and shows the first frame, but then the voltage drops to 0 on most of the lines (except ENAB and CLK). I'll look mroe into this over the weekend. I really hope I didnt fry it, as these controllers are frigging hard as hell to come by! do you still have your controller too?

Thanks
Jason

allenruble · 04-05-2002, 07:06 AM

I no what you are going though when you blew something up . I blew up my video card when I hooked up a vga to tft controller wrong .

pigseye · 04-05-2002, 12:17 PM

Hey Red,
Yeah I still got the controller. When I get a chance I'm going to ask a techy friend of mine at work to look at it. He may be able to fix it.

Are you sure your LCD is OK? I've got an LCD that appears to be fine but I have lost all the LSBs for the color red. All red pixels are at full brightness. My friend saw it and said it's not rare to have that kind of failure in the LCD itself. Got another LCD and used the same controller/cable and it looks great. Just another thing for you to check.

Sorry you're having so many problems.

Good luck man
Pigseye

infrared · 04-15-2002, 06:08 PM

If any of you have done this to your controller, I'll buyy the broken controller off of you.. Email me at infrared1999@hotmail.com

Jason

Sleeka · 04-15-2002, 06:31 PM

I am having a similar problem that I posted before. Mine fades to black right away without a screen shot first. Every pin on both cables has been double checked. Also they were checked to make sure nothing was accidentily shorted to another pin. Power was never hooked up backwards. When I touch C80 on the controller (on the frontside of the controller by the contrast button) there is a scrambled picture where I can adjust contrast visually. As soon as I let go the frame freezes all scrambled. I am going to see about trying my controller on someone local's setup as soon as he gets it running to see if the card is okay. I hate this situation because the cables are made correct and Nothing works. Worse yet is the fact that I'm now out $200 and all I have to show for it is a paperwait. If the controller nevr worked do I get my money back? Are these controllers individually tested before sale?

I have the LQ9D161 screen and want to double check the Hirose layout because the silscreening on the LCD and the spec sheet are confusing me. I have hooked up both ends of the Hirose for pin layout as follows:

Looking at the socket on the controller and on the LCD
31 29 28 ........ 1
_30 28 26 ..... 2

Is this correct? This follows the silkscreening on both units but want to double check.

infrared · 04-15-2002, 11:19 PM

Yo sleeka,

I think this may be a similar problem to mine.. (fading to black).

I really don't know how to help you through this online.. I dont have my controller in frront of me either (its at home) so I cant look at it.. IM me on AIM at ATLien1222 and I'll try to help..

Jason

User Name		Remember Me?
Password