Lilliput red blinking light

Pistolen08 · 12-15-2006, 08:53 PM

Hi,

I recently tried to test my lilliput 629GL in my car. I cut off the wire before the cig. lighter, and hooked it into the 12V leads of my car. I used my voltmeter, and it is registering 12V. When I tried to power it up, the led on the button board started blinking red. I made sure all the ribbon cables were in all the way and reseated them multiple times (blue ends should be facing away from the board, correct?) I noticed that when I recieved the lcd, some of the pins on the ribbon cable were peeled back (I lined them back up correctly). I have noticed that some people have had a problem with the power filter, and I'm still not quite sure what it does (mine doesn't have a fuse, while others do). Should I try to remove the power filter and test it that way? I have tried using the buttons, as well as the remote to try and turn it on. There is no activity on the actual lcd panel, which makes me believe that it could be a problem with the ribbon cables. Thank you.

-Elliot

Pistolen08 · 12-16-2006, 12:38 PM

I tested the unit with the 12V wall wart, and I still get the blinking light problem (so it isn't the power filter). I looked on the board again, and noticed that one of the capacitors looks blown. The X on the top has seperated and you can see inside the capacitor (I will add pics later when I get my camera). The rating of the capacitor is 25V 220µF. Should I try replacing the capacitor, or would the other components be fried also? The polarity was inverted when it was plugged into the car. I heard a pop, and that is the only apparent damage on the board. Also, if replacing the capacitor would not work, does anyone have boards for the 629GL (I have the TS and LCD) for sale? Thanks.

Pistolen08 · 12-16-2006, 12:49 PM

I believe this is the correct replacement capacitor (25V 220µF)

http://www.mouser.com/search/Product...2222-150-95612

Would this be the only problem, or would other components be fried as well?
Please reply quickly, because I am trying to finish this project this weekend.

-Elliot

Pistolen08 · 12-16-2006, 11:16 PM

bump, come on people please repond!

Pistolen08 · 12-17-2006, 11:27 PM

zomg, are you kidding me? please someone reply!

JimmyFitz · 12-18-2006, 01:19 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Pistolen08

...Would this be the only problem, or would other components be fried as well?
Please reply quickly, because I am trying to finish this project this weekend.

-Elliot

It is highly likely that more than the cap was blown.

jason12 · 12-18-2006, 06:55 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Pistolen08

I believe this is the correct replacement capacitor (25V 220µF)

http://www.mouser.com/search/Product...2222-150-95612

Would this be the only problem, or would other components be fried as well?
Please reply quickly, because I am trying to finish this project this weekend.

-Elliot

Try to remove the cap and power the board afterwards. If nothing changes - there is more damage on the board.

Not familiar with Lil's design, however if you can disconnect the LCD's lamp or the whole LCD form the main board to see if it makes any difference. It is possible that lamp's inverter got busted. If it is on-board, try to disconnect it from 12V.

Pistolen08 · 12-18-2006, 06:22 PM

Thank you guys for replying. I tested the board with my voltmeter, and current is still flowing through the capacitor (I am not sure if current would still be flowing, since a capacitor is supposed to store energy then release it). If the capacitor was blown, would the current be stopped totally, or would it just act as a bridge (having 12V flow through it)? I have been testing the board by itself, with the buttons attached instead of hooking up the lcd and touch panel for fear of blowing the screen as well. I am not familiar with the 629GL's circuit board, and I am trying to locate and test weather the fuses have blown or not. If one of the fuses has blown, would the buttons still recieve power for the red light to blink? I tested with my volt meter on either sides of the fuse, and it isn't registering any current flowing through the fuse, so I am suspecting that to be the problem although there is no visual indication that any of the fuses have blown. I also noticed the orange/yellow piece following the dc input was labeled as 1.6A Fuse, as well as the small white rectangle with the inscription "H1B42559", which was not labeled on the board. This component seemed to resemble a fuse, and it is not show current running through it. Can anyone confirm if these two are fuses, or am I doing something incorrectly?

Thanks!
-Elliot

jason12 · 12-19-2006, 11:01 AM

To test the cap you have to unsolder it from the board. Regardless, from what you are saying it is a toast anyway.

Regarding fuses, I can't confirm since I do not have such a monitor. However it is high possibility they are blown too.

Pistolen08 · 12-19-2006, 06:58 PM

Jason- thank you very much for your help.

They say a picture speaks a thousand words, and I am too lazy to type that much, so here goes: (I'm not quite sure what they say about videos, but I put one in anyway

)

Video:

YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTS4pa_Omc4

Google Video: http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...56141736630888

Pictures:

...man I hope I can fix this...

jason12 · 12-20-2006, 07:09 AM

The other fuse that you think is blown what marking does it have on the top? If some number with an "A" in the end, then it is a fuse. Is there marking on the board next to it that would suggest it is a fuse.

With power on also measure voltage betwee ground and each terminal of the "fuse". What are the readings?

With powe OFF, measure resistance between ground and each terminal of the fuse (one at a time). If one of them read 0Ohms (short to ground) it is not a fuse but rather cedramic capacitor.

jason12 · 12-20-2006, 07:10 AM

And one more thing. Could you make pictures in focus, please?

Pistolen08 · 12-20-2006, 04:43 PM

Thanks for your help again. There are no markings relating the fuse in question to actually being a fuse (no 'A' or "fuse" on the conponent or the board). The board is not grounded, so what do I connect the other lead to? If the fuse was blown, the impedance test would show overload right?

jason12 · 12-20-2006, 07:33 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Pistolen08

The board is not grounded, so what do I connect the other lead to? If the fuse was blown, the impedance test would show overload right?

1). Negative 12V is the ground.
2). There is no such thing as "overload" in impedance. It can be short (i.e. 0 Ohms), open (i.e. infinite resistance) and something in between. There is a possibility that another fuse is a cap. If it is one of the leads(pads) would be connected to the ground. That is why testing the resistance betwen each pad(lead) is important. If it is a fuse there should be no short between any pad and ground.

3) If it is not a cap, what are the voltage readings on each cap. If it is a fuse and it is blown one side will show some voltage and another show almost 0V (like few mV because of noise).

If all this true the part you are referring to is highly likely a fuse.

4) One more check. Solder this part out and measure it's resistance. If it shows open (infinite resistance) and readings do not change (open-something-open) during measurement, it is a fuse. Make sure your hands do not touch the probes/pads since your body conducts the current.

Post the results. And we will go from there.

Pistolen08 · 12-20-2006, 09:03 PM

Ok, with power off, I connected negative to ground and positive to each terminal of the fuse in question. Here are the results in kOhms: 2.032 and 2.036. With power on, I connected negative to ground and positive to each terminal of the same fuse in question. Here are the results in mV: 1.169 and 1.170. Thanks!

-Elliot

User Name		Remember Me?
Password