hondamac

Okay...the carnetix P2140 and mac cable have arrived. I'm still waiting for the screen (friday - xenarc 700idt) and the mini, I can pick up at any time.

So, with the P2140 in my hands, is there any preliminary work I should do before the screen arrives to expedite the instal?

In fact, is there a step by step installationg guide of P2140? I'm a complete noob when it comes to this and need all the help i can get. I don't even know the first thing to connect/do. Any advice would help. It's going into a 98 civic.

Thanks

iamgnat

It's pretty easy and if the 2140 manual is anything like the 1900, it has all the info you need. Your big thing will be powering it as you need to run a line from the battery.

While this is actually easy, it can be a daunting task for a newbie. If the idea of messing with your battery and finding/making holes in your firewall doesn't sound like something you are ready to tackle, find a good sound shop in your area (not a big box store) and take the 2140 and it's manual to them. They should be able to install it for a reasonable price.

In general, to make your install go smoothly plan it out. Take the parts out to the car, pull panels, etc..

-dave

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hondamac

iamgnat,

is there a step-by-step guide to installing one of these?

Providing detailed instructions? what gauge wire to use, and to what that wire connects to? I keep reading about a +P5V.. what the heck is that? I'm a nebie..I realize that...but i really want to try to do this myself. Somebody on the net must have step by step instructions.

P.S...my biggest fear is burning the P2140 or some other wires in my car and making a mess.

Machinehead

There's some good wiring diagrams in the P2140 manual. Grab it off the Carnetix web site. As far as wiring off the battery. You'll need at least an 8 gauge and it all depends on how far the P2140 is from the battery. Whatever you do, DO NOT wire the P2140 to your car's fuse panel. You could start a fire.

As far as the +P5V. That's an add-on for the P1900/P2140. It gives you a 5 volt power line. And while the P2140 can do a 5 volt secondary line, if you plan to power your monitor off the P2140 you'll have to set the secondary to 12 volts. So if you have a USB hub or something that requires a 5 volt feed you're out of luck without the +P5V.

hondamac

Okay....so if I want my monitor powered off of the carnetix....AND a powered USB hub, i'll need the P5V. Correct?

If I don't want the monitor powered (which I don't think I do) can I install a powered USB hub, WITHOUT the P5V connector?

Another words, I can one secondary power connector to the P2140, but no more...if I do I need the P5V.

iamgnat

Correct.


Why don't you want to run the monitor off the 2140? By using the 2140 to power it, it will take care of powering it on and off along with the sleep cycle of the Mini. No worries about forgetting to turn it off or anything either.

As far as wiring, 8 gauge is the bare minimum size, but as MachineHead pointed out it also depends on the distance you have to run the cable. Poke around the FAQs for installing an amplifier as (at least wiring) this is the same thing.

Just some bits of advice:

1. Don't use the type of fuse holder where the ends screw on in your engine bay. My original install used two of them and the o-rings dry rotted in a few months and made it impossible to open them without breaking them. Go with a ANL or mini-ANL fuse if possible.
2. If you think you might install small to medium sized amps in the future, run 4 gauge wire into the car to where you would likely install the amps and install a 1x4g -> 4x8g distro block. Then run an 8g line to your 2140. That should make it easier to install amps in the future.

-dave

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hondamac

Okay...I just ordered the Carnetix P5V regulator. I'll connect those things together first. As for the USB power hub. Is it simply a matter of splicing the cable ...cut the prong off..splice the cable...and connect the red to red black to black on the P5V unit? I'll have a better idea when it comes tomorrow.

Bugbyte

The carp pc 101 video in the FAQ link at the top of this screen shows how to connect the source wire to the battery in the engine compartment. Just use a grommet if passing through the firewall. That guy didn't and it's a giant fire hazard!

There is also a link in the FAQ titled "How to hook up your power supply in the car" that discusses the gauge of wire you need, fusing, and so forth. You should read that. You should also consider using something called a power distribution block. These usually come fused and give you an organized and professional spot to connect your power to.

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iamgnat

Maybe, maybe not.

Check out Mike's forums for the thread about powering a USB hub.

As far as replacing your hub's PS (assuming it takes 5v), yes it is as simple as splicing the wires.

The catch is that most (maybe all at this point?) hubs have dual power supplies. This means that if you don't have the external power connected, it will draw power from the USB bus.

If you already have the hub, plug it up to your computer and attach a device (mouse is a good test) to it. Does the computer still see the device when you unplug the hub from the wall? If it does, you have a dual powered hub.

There are two issues that you have to be concerned with. The first is that it (and it's devices) will continue to draw power while the Mini is asleep. The chances of this draining your battery are small, but it is possible especially if you have an old/weak battery. The other issue is that something could cause one of the attached devices to send a wake signal to the Mini (like moving your mouse when the computer is asleep) and wake it up when you don't want it to. That is far more likely to run your battery down.

There is an easily solution though The wiring diagram for a USB cable is easy to find with Google. Look one up, then simply modify a USB cable to not supply power (cut the + and - wires and insulate them well). Then use that as the connection between your Mini and the hub.

-dave

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hondamac

Hey folks, i've been going through the diagrams....if you connect the green/black Y cable to the power button, how in the world can you have a working dock station...to make the mac re-movable without disconnecting this cable? It is tiny. What modifications have you all made?

pip

I saw one person installed a headphone style socket on the mac mini where the security hole is and connected the power button to that. The macpac power button connector had a headphone jack wired on. A more solid connector for frequent connecting & disconnecting....

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mr2mac

I used a plug and jack for mine:

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/macc...er-10-6-a.html

Ideal for a PPC mac , but ive upgraded to Intel. Theres not much room to fit one, but i'll figure something out, as a dock is very useful.

Machinehead

I wish I saw this 4 months ago. I wouldn't have installed one if I knew what a pain they are.


Bugbyte did one too. The link to his install is in his signature.

Bugbyte

Right. Check my install worklog around post 134 to 144. I used two brass ball point pen springs and two brass grommets filled with solder. The springs compress when you install the Mini. I has worked without fail for around 2 years now.

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