Quote: Originally Posted by
kb9kst 
Now for the audio quality of the built in radio. WOW is it bad!!! I say that when I am not even a music enthusiast like many of you on here are. I first hooked up the internally amplified speaker wires. I can hear a constant humming/whine in the back ground ONLY when the built in stereo is activated. The Windows OS sounds are superb. The volume control takes too big of steps if you ask me for the stereo. I have played with the audio sliders and you get very little volume control of the stereo audio. With FM radio input and output maxed you can get fairly loud audio out of the built in amp but you go from zero volume to loud in just one step. No soft music with those settings and if you lower the FM radio sliders then you get no top end volume.
Since my vehicle has a built in amplifier I tried hooking up the the 5.1 surround sound connector. I am using a PAC C2R-CHY3 wiring kit and since my car has the built in amplifier the inputs into the Amp are only left and right channel so I am limited to hooking up only the front right/left outputs (the same was true of the GURU amplified outputs). This factory AMP does put out sound to all the speakers though. The audio I got was amplified some but I have no top end audio at all. And yes, the background whine/humming is still present only in the built in radio audio. VERY disappointed.
Two things here:
1. FM radio noise and poor reception - Lots of cars have diversity antennas. What does this mean? Well I am not an electrical engineer but the gist of this is that they don't work well with after market radios. From my understanding, they are designed to dramatically improve performance on factory radios as well as lower multi path distortion. Aftermarket FM radios work great in our scion with a single antenna. They work horribly in our Highlander that has multiple antennas. We found this out the painful way while doing HD radio testing. This can be fixed by adding a standard antenna to the car. There might be some other type of combining aftermarket solution that I don't know about as well.
2. The volume is VERY sensitive. This was annoying at first but here are several things we have done to work around this problem until front end software is developed.
My main advice here - Play around with the sliders - From memory, I believe the volume knob on the device controls the master volume. Fool around with the wav and FM levels. Set them as low as possible and use your master volume for controlling the radio. If your FM and WAV volume are all the way at the top you are going to have very little "master range" when using your knob.
Other FM noise - When not using the FM radio in our test car, we always mute the FM radio input in windows otherwise that audio source is always playing.
All of these volume and noise issues should be able to be fixed by using the sliders and using the FM Mute function in the control panel. Hopefully in the future these will be seamlessly controlled by a front end package like Centrafuse, StreetDeck, Roadrunner or plugins made by their developers.
Quote: Originally Posted by
kb9kst 
Maybe I missed something as far as the wiring for power goes but I have found that I needed to wire power a little different that the photo shown in the store. The power button is set to hibernate in the power options of Windows. I have the "Power" plug black wire going to ground as the picture shows. The yellow ACC wire is actually hot (+12V) and the "B/U" wire (which I thought stood for back up) actually is the switched B+ (accessory) and will put the unit in and out of hibernate.
It is possible we made a type there on the accessory vs. power. we will double check that.