Newcomer to the CarPC gig, looking for install guidance!

stratosigma · 01-26-2009, 12:31 AM

Hello everyone, this is my first foray into doing pretty much anything to my car save using the cig lighter and aux port

I've been reading the forums virtually non-stop the past two weeks in order to alleviate some of my ignorance on this subject.

I have computer hardware and programming experience, my weakness is car audio and wiring so I'm going to spout my plans here and graciously request input and guidance to assist in improving upon the knowledge I have already gleaned from the insane amount of information on this site The vehicle I am using is a 2008 Mazda 3i.

Since I'm new to this, please correct any incorrect terminology or methodologies I may be using.

Hardware List:

Intel BLKD945GCLF2 Mini-ITX Atom Mobo
2GB of Some Brand of RAM
M2-ATX Power Supply
WD Scorpio 120GB 5400 RPM SATA Notebook Drive
7" Xenarc 700TSV
BU-353 GPS
Some kind of optical drive
OBDPro Scanner (already have from an earlier project)

My main aversion to this project is working with the electrical system. I'm sure many people have the same feeling when they've never done something like this before. I figure I need to do it, so I'll learn how.

What I've gathered is I'll need an 8 gauge wire connected to the positive terminal of the battery with a 15A inline fuse that is fed into the passenger compartment, through the firewall (remains to be seen how easy this is) and into the M2-ATX. This is probably the most intimidating portion of the project for myself.

In this photo: do I use a terminal ring, crimp my 8g wire into it and attach the loop onto the same bolt as the lead red wire in that photo? I'm just worried I'll blow something up or, worse, electrocute myself. I also take it, before I do anything, disconnect the negative to prevent any shorts?

After that, I think the rest is a much more comfortable endeavor for myself. I'm going to take a shot at meshing together the Xenarc bezel and a double DIN kit.

By removing the stock HU, I have seen that I will lose my Temp/Clock LCD. I assume my steering controls will go as well? Is a better option to retain the innards of the head unit and plug the mac mini into the auxiliary port, thereby retaining my Radio and CD Player as well as LCD and steering controls?

Hopefully someone can lend me some advice and tell me if I know what the hell I'm doing

Thanks!

*edited with new hardware list*

stratosigma · 01-29-2009, 05:32 PM

I've decided against the Mac Mini because of cost, so I've revised the hardware list above, and removed some extra information.

Any advice would be appreciated! Cheers!

stratosigma · 01-31-2009, 12:28 AM

No advice?

As this is a learning experience as well, even though I know the M2-ATX (I think!) has plenty of power for my setup, someone check my numbers to make sure I'm doing this right

Xenarc 700TSV: 8W
Intel Atom 330 Board: 45W at full load
WD1600BEVS 2.5" 1.5GB/s SATA: 2.5W during R/W
Panasonic Slot Load DVD from the Mp3car store: 10W

These major players total up to 65.5W, call it 70. Plenty below the 160 of the M2-ATX. The Xenarc and Mobo are 53W out of 96 on the 12v, so everything has got plenty of room, yes?

yam125 · 01-31-2009, 01:43 AM

do you need help with addition? i am not really sure what you want. for your steering question look at fusion brain.

stratosigma · 01-31-2009, 03:00 PM

Not help with the actual act of addition, but to make sure that I'm adding the correct numbers together. It's all a learning experience since I've never really worried how many amps are on a rail before.

My real issue is what I asked in my first post regarding wiring. I'm not expecting to be spoon fed, and I've read posts about what kind of wiring and where it goes (kinda), but not really the method behind it. If there's a website or FAQ somewhere that details wiring from the car battery that would be of use to someone who has never ever done it before, it'd be appreciated.

I will look into the Fusion Brain if I decide to get rid of my stock hu, but for now I think I'm keeping it since I want my LCD and don't want to deal with an amp.

yam125 · 01-31-2009, 04:05 PM

http://www.the12volt.com/

Bugbyte · 01-31-2009, 04:50 PM

Ring terminal, crimp to 8 gauge. Loosen the bolt on the red cable, put the ring terminal into it and retighten. The other end of the cable should run into a fused distribution block within about a foot or so.

Then, run an 8 gauge wire to the M2 from the distro block. I solder my wires but to solder an 8 gauge wire requires a lot of heat, so a regular soldering iron won't do it.

Watch the video in my signature to see how I did it. Note that I don't use a distro block because I'm connected to the fusible link.

stratosigma · 01-31-2009, 06:54 PM

Thanks Bugbyte. I took a look at the video and I'm wondering if my car has a similar fuse link as your car, or maybe mine is a distribution center. It is a 2008 Mazda 3. I've attached pics. The two vacant ones are noted as (Glow) 60A and (PTC) 80A on the etched descriptions. Is that just the max they are rated for? I'm also not sure what type of fuse those are.

yam125 · 01-31-2009, 08:51 PM

80 Is a little high you can switch thin out for a 30 because at 80 I think you could still do some damag before a fuse disconects.

What is glow???? The only thing I could think of would be glow plug and that is for deisel and mazda doesn't have any

stratosigma · 01-31-2009, 09:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by yam125

80 Is a little high you can switch thin out for a 30 because at 80 I think you could still do some damag before a fuse disconects.

What is glow???? The only thing I could think of would be glow plug and that is for deisel and mazda doesn't have any

Well it's etched on the plastic housing that it's 80A, that's probably for if there's a fuse in there from the factory. Since they're vacant, I'm wondering if you can put any fuse you want in there.

Perhaps the glow plug is for european Axela models which run on diesel?

yam125 · 01-31-2009, 10:24 PM

Well if they have a deisel model that is exactly what it is for. It also explains why yours is empty and why the rating is so high.

Bugbyte · 01-31-2009, 11:04 PM

The purpose of the fuse near the battery is to prevent a fire. If your power wire was to ground between the battery and the power supply fuse, you want something that will fail before the insulation on the wire catches fire. For that purpose, your fusible link will work.

The purpose of the fuse just before the power supply (a much lower rated fuse) is to protect the power supply and should be a proper fuse so it will blow much quicker if there is a problem.

If you can find a fuse to span that glow terminal, it would be perfect. I think it is for a diesel engine's glow plug. Mazda should be able to sell you one or you can maybe find it online.

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