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08-18-2005, 04:32 PM
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#1
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Motor City
Posts: 262
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Power IGN question
I understand perfectly how to wire up an Opus with the Constant power. Search helped with that. What I could not find was different loads for the ignition wire.
Opus needs Constant & Ignition power sources.
Here's my question.
I have an ignition switched cigarette lighter (which is not used for anything other than power). I already have an XM Commander (needs ignition as well) hooked into it. Can I wire an Opus 120W in there as well? Is the Igntion wire actually used or is it a "sense" wire to let the Opus know the vehicle is turned on & to go ahead & turn on/off.
Thanks...
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Enjoying v1.0 since it's operational. Aaaawww yeah.
Specs: Opus120; Epia M10k; 700IDT; GlobalSat BR-355; iGuidance 2.1 & IGMod; XM; Custom case.
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08-18-2005, 04:41 PM
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#2
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FLAC
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Pearland
Posts: 1,345
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its a "sense" wire so that the Opus knows when you turn your car on and off again
so unless your cigarette lighter loses power when you turn the car off... you cant wire it there
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Pentium 4m 1.5GHz|MB896|Roadie Extreme|XM-Direct|Rikaline 6010|T-View 7"|Streetdeck|160gb Western Digital|1Gb DDR2-533 Ram
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08-18-2005, 04:41 PM
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#3
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FLAC
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,456
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I mailed Opus and they said there is practically no draw, it is only used for switching. I have mine sharing a connection to my screen, FM modulator and radar detector all through a 7.5A fuse and no problems.
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08-19-2005, 06:00 AM
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#4
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Motor City
Posts: 262
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Thank you kindly, that was exactly what I needed to know.
__________________
You know you want to...Worklog
Enjoying v1.0 since it's operational. Aaaawww yeah.
Specs: Opus120; Epia M10k; 700IDT; GlobalSat BR-355; iGuidance 2.1 & IGMod; XM; Custom case.
Witty one-liners currently quoted by (0001) mp3car.com forum member sigs.
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09-16-2005, 01:05 AM
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#5
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 134
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Quote: Originally Posted by Viscouse
Thank you kindly, that was exactly what I needed to know.
you could always put in a fuse if you paranoid
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2008 Civic... Sound system... then carputer install...
WORK IN PROGRESS
If you look at my avatar closely, you can see a chick with two big knockers....
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02-19-2006, 08:36 AM
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#6
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: far... very far.
Posts: 336
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Quote: Originally Posted by CornToeGoblin
you could always put in a fuse if you paranoid 
what size fuse?  sorry had to ask.
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~0okami.Digital
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02-19-2006, 10:53 PM
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#7
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: May 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 129
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you should absolutely put a fuse if the wire is thinner than the wire you are tapping into. while the opus itself may not draw a lot of power on this line, the purpose of the fuse is to protect the wire itself in case something bad happens and the wire shorts out. remember, this wire is still connected to a hot source of power, and if the wire gets in contact with anything grounded -- whether its twisted sheet metal in a car accident, or just getting disconnected due to shock or vibration and the disconnected end touching something grounded -- you're looking at a serious fire risk without a properly rated fuse. the best would be to use the same wire thickness (so its properly protected by the factory "cig lighter fuse") or if needed use a lower rated cig lighter fuse than factory
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02-20-2006, 12:22 AM
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#8
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: far... very far.
Posts: 336
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Quote: Originally Posted by stapan
you should absolutely put a fuse if the wire is thinner than the wire you are tapping into. while the opus itself may not draw a lot of power on this line, the purpose of the fuse is to protect the wire itself in case something bad happens and the wire shorts out. remember, this wire is still connected to a hot source of power, and if the wire gets in contact with anything grounded -- whether its twisted sheet metal in a car accident, or just getting disconnected due to shock or vibration and the disconnected end touching something grounded -- you're looking at a serious fire risk without a properly rated fuse. the best would be to use the same wire thickness (so its properly protected by the factory "cig lighter fuse") or if needed use a lower rated cig lighter fuse than factory
so in short, if its a positive/hot/+ wire, always fuse it near the source. correct?
*takes note*
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~0okami.Digital
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02-20-2006, 01:06 AM
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#9
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 202
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Quote: Originally Posted by 0okami
so in short, if its a positive/hot/+ wire, always fuse it near the source. correct?
*takes note*
The fuse is actually to protect the battery.
The idea of fusing as near the battery as possible is that in the event of a short-to-GND, the battery would not continue to drain with a large current until it dies (or until something catches fire from a spark or overheat).
By fusing close to the battery, you also reduce the length of "hot" wire that may melt or spark or otherwise be vulnerable.
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02-20-2006, 10:02 AM
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#10
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Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 44
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Quote: Originally Posted by piabu
The fuse is actually to protect the battery.
The idea of fusing as near the battery as possible is that in the event of a short-to-GND, the battery would not continue to drain with a large current until it dies (or until something catches fire from a spark or overheat).
By fusing close to the battery, you also reduce the length of "hot" wire that may melt or spark or otherwise be vulnerable.
I don't know how you worked this out. It's standard practice to fuse electronic items - The first thing a textbook will tell you is that fuses ONLY save electronic components - not people. I guess a battery prob counts as an electronic component but i wouldn't say "the fuse is actually to protect the battery"
My understanding of why the higher power cables are fused close to the battery is to reduce the length of positive cable protuding from the battery in the event the fuse holder came apart. The ideal length therefore would be to place the fuse at a distance less than the closest metal surface to the battery. I think this may be what you were trying to say - but I couldn't really make sense of your comment
Spuzzdawg
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02-20-2006, 10:10 AM
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#11
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 310
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Nice thread.. learned some things because I need to wire my Opus very soon and I'm freaking out about the whole IGN wire thing.. I have no idea what and where to wire it... If I ready correctly, can I just wire it to the sig lighter and fuse it?
-Emo
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02-20-2006, 10:37 AM
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#12
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: far... very far.
Posts: 336
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Quote: Originally Posted by Emo
Nice thread.. learned some things because I need to wire my Opus very soon and I'm freaking out about the whole IGN wire thing.. I have no idea what and where to wire it... If I ready correctly, can I just wire it to the sig lighter and fuse it?
-Emo
thats what i understood too. correct us if we are wrong.
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~0okami.Digital
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02-20-2006, 08:13 PM
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#13
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Illinois
Posts: 161
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As long as the cig lighter shuts off when the ign is off -- Some cars have a constant cig lighter
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Jim
2005 Acura TL
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02-20-2006, 11:35 PM
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#14
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: May 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 129
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Quote: Originally Posted by 0okami
so in short, if its a positive/hot/+ wire, always fuse it near the source. correct?
yeah, that's right. spuzzdogg hit the nail on the head as far as fusing it as close to the battery/source as possible, or at least closer than the closest sheet metal.
think of it this way... the wire is like a pipe that always carries water from a source (the battery, or your "cig lighter" wire). the fuse is like a valve on the pipe that when closed, stops water from going through at that point. so lets say the valve is on the pipe a mile after it leaves the source. if the pipe gets a hole in it anywhere in that first mile before the valve, water goes everywhere and you can't shut it off! (sparks, wire possibly catches on fire) closing the valve wouldn't do anything because its after the leak. however, if the valve is right near the source, you can shut it off thereby stopping the leak since the leak is further down the pipe.. the fuse just happens to be a valve that automatically closes if it detects a leak further down.. hope that amkes sense
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02-20-2006, 11:39 PM
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#15
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 310
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Quote: Originally Posted by stapan
yeah, that's right. spuzzdogg hit the nail on the head as far as fusing it as close to the battery/source as possible, or at least closer than the closest sheet metal.
think of it this way... the wire is like a pipe that always carries water from a source (the battery, or your "cig lighter" wire). the fuse is like a valve on the pipe that when closed, stops water from going through at that point. so lets say the valve is on the pipe a mile after it leaves the source. if the pipe gets a hole in it anywhere in that first mile before the valve, water goes everywhere and you can't shut it off! (sparks, wire possibly catches on fire) closing the valve wouldn't do anything because its after the leak. however, if the valve is right near the source, you can shut it off thereby stopping the leak since the leak is further down the pipe.. the fuse just happens to be a valve that automatically closes if it detects a leak further down.. hope that amkes sense
yeah that was a good example.. thanks
-Emo
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