BarinaHum

Hi all,

After searching and reading for a few days. This is where I am at the moment.

I'm trying to determine fuse sizes & wire sizes needed for running my Car PC,
Component Amp and Sub Amp. Please correct me if I wrong here. Thank you in
advance.

I'm starting off with running 4 AWG from the battery to Distribution block.
There would be three wires coming out from Distribution block (see diagram).

Here is how I calculate fuse sizes and then the required wires:

* Car PC (M2-ATX) 160W
P = V * I
160W = 12 * I
I = 160/12 = 13.33 -> round it up to 15amp.
* Comp Amp 500W
I = 500/12
= 42.67 -> round it up to 50amp.
* Sub Amp 250W
I = 250/12
= 21.33 -> round it up to 25amp.

From the fuse size, I then use http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/car-audio-faq/72195-questions-regarding-wire-size-battery-size-alternator-size-see-here.html to figure out what is the best wires for
each fuse.

Car PC with 15amp fuse -> at least 14 AWG
Comp Amp with 50amp fuse -> at least 8 AWG
Sub Amp with 25 fuse -> at least 10 AWG

Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Attached Images

 

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DarquePervert

Looks good.
The only thing I see that might be an issue is the 14awg going from the Distro block to the VoomPC. The issue is more of the 14awg not fitting well in your distro block rather than the wire guage not supporting the load. For that reason alone, you might consider 12AWG or larger.

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BarinaHum

Thank you DarquePervert. I will go for 12AWG or larger.

With the VoomPC case, there are cables for running power, ign and ground which are 18AWG, I'm thinking of running 12AWG all the way in to the case to the M2-ATX and bin those cables the came with the case. What do you guys think?

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popi79

How are you planning to power you monitor?

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BarinaHum

I haven't thought of that yet actually.
Do you know have something in mind?
All I know is that I will power it with the M2-ATX.
Maybe running 20-22 AWG from M2-ATX to the monitor.

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DarquePervert

I recommend one of two options for powering monitor:

1) Use a Lilliput brand monitor wired directly to the car's electrical system (ACC line) with the included egg-shaped inverter.
2) Use a Xenarc brand monitor wired directly to the car's electrical system (ACC line). The Xenarc has a built-in regulator.

By wiring it to the ACC line, the monitor will turn on/off with the car's ignition.

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RedGTiVR6

I will second Darque. Since your current demands are on the line, always go with the bigger wire.

Regarding the fuse size for your amplifiers. Match these to the fuse sizes in your amplifiers. Same size, if not one larger. You are protecting the wire at this point, the fuse in the amplifier is there to protect the amplifier.

Because of marketing, you can never really trust printed numbers. The fuse on the side of the amplifier will not be a lie. That fuse will be a true inidcation of what that amplifier can truely do.

Trying to fit such a small gauge wire into a distro doesn't seem like it would be a problem, but when you get to purchasing the distro, it will be a problem.

I'm also guessing you're looking at between 10 and 15' for wire lengths. What kind of vehicle is this going in? It sounds like you've already figured out to account for length as the wire runs, not as the crow flies. That's a big mistake that many new comers make. So kudos to you for being on top of that one!



This might be an option for you. From the distro block into something like this then split out your power and grounds as needed.

You can also find these strips with fuses on each line, which is what we will be switching to next year.

Or, you can strip the wire back really far and just double it over a few times and put it in the distro block.

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BarinaHum

I'm still confused on this issue.
I guess, more searching to do.

[quote=RedGTiVR6;960144]
I'm also guessing you're looking at between 10 and 15' for wire lengths. What kind of vehicle is this going in?
QUOTE]

I have holden Barina (AKA Opel Corsa) and I have 10' of wiring to do.
Thanks for the input guys.

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BarinaHum

After searching and reading, some people are powering the monitor for their PSU and some powering it off the ACC line like you suggested.

Why don't you recommend powering it of PSU? Wouldn't regulated power from PSU be better than the Egg shaped inverter?

If I powering it off PSU, I can leave monitor on when the engine is cranking.

Thank you

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RedGTiVR6

The Lilliput doesn't have any internal regulation.

The Xenarc does.

By powering the Lilliput off of the PSU you are providing it with regulated power.

Using the Egg shaped inverter is another way to provide regulated power to the screen.

I have my xenarc wired into the ACC line in the car, it stays on durring cranking.

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BarinaHum

Thanks Red GTi VR6,

I will go with you and DarquePervert recommended to powering my Liliput.
I'm still not quiet understand many things, being new to the car audio and the car electrical thing.

Here is my updated daigram, it might help some other newbies out there.

Attached Images

 

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RedGTiVR6

are those USB hubs pulling power from anywhere or are they relying on the single USB line to provide power for everything?

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durwood

I didn't power my Liliput directly off my PSU because I didn't want to load down the power supply. Instead I used the egg shaped regulator however I used the PSU to trigger a relay to turn power on and off to the egg shaped invertor.

This way, my montior turns on and off with the computer, not just the car, but is not directly powered by the PSU. Just another way to do it.

Added: Nice diagrams. good work.

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BarinaHum

They are relying on the two USB from motherboard. I already have two USB hubs which don't need PSU to power them lying around. So I was thinking of using them. Do you think I should get one of thoes that need PSU?

Thank you.

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BarinaHum

Thanks for sharing your method. This could be useful info for me and other newbies. I still don't know much about relay, but it is very useful indeed.

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Car: Holden Barina 98
Planning: [========80%]
PC Parts: [==========100%]
Fabrication: [=====50%]
Total Progress [======60%}