Seabass

Hey everyone, ok the A/C has been dead for a really long time and we have decided to fix it(we live in texas) so we got the estimates on how it would cost to fix it and it was around $1300, i dont know about you but thats a lot of money for me, so we bought the compressor on ebay. Now im wondering what else should i replace or check and does anyone have any suggestions or websites to check to see how it can be done. Thanks everyone. -Seabass

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mp3z24

didnt you just buy that car!??!?! or is this a different car?

anywho... i dont have any helpful info, other that try to buy a factory service manual or a chiltons or haynes service manual for the car in question. they are VERY detailed at how to do things.

A/C is usually one of the things left to the pros, especially if the parts are not new. after all, how do you know that the seals are still good in the compressor?

~Mike

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Seabass

Naw my civic i just bought is running great, this is for my moms toyota camry.

98explorerxlt

Be carefull r134a coolant displaces air so do this outside. Its also dangerous to bleed off large quantities and illegal. The lubricant in the system is very hazardous to your health so dont eat sniff or smoke it. Your going to have to isolate late your compressor, then the lines coming from the evapaorator and going to the condensor. Plus when working on larger systemes at work i have to leave a vacuum pressure on the lines So I agree that you should stick with the pros on this one if not good luck

ps if you get air in your system your screwed other than that car ac systems are pretty basic

Suprapc

When changing a compressor you should defiantly change the dryer and orface tube/ expansion valve (depending on model). I also recommend that you install an inline filter in the system as well as flush out the system. Remember that when your old compressor failed it sprayed little metal filings throughout the system. Your new compressor will be circulating these little bits of metal throughout the system(through itself also), so if at all possible you should remove them from the system to avoid damage to your new compressor. Most mechanics will not tell you about this nor will they go through the extra steps to avoid a second failure (usually a year or 2 away) which they will profit from again. When charging be sure that you have zero leaks, you have the system under vacuum for at lest 30 min (to boil out any water in the system which will freeze later causing chaos in the system) Also bleed the filler hose to avoid charging a hose full of air in to the system. DO NOT OVERCHARGE THE SYSTEM. R-134a is fairly harmless however I would always charge the system in a well ventilated area (you will have the car running remember) The secrets to a cold long lasting A/C system are CLEAN system (no fragments or water) and getting ALL of the air out and not letting any back in.
Hope that helps
P.S. be sure you have oil in the new compressor

Edit : replace any and all O-rings that you are removing, they are available cheap at most parts stores. Another option is replacing the compressor yourself and letting somebody else charge the system.

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bh76

Reminds me of the time that I tried replacing the compressor, on my old car, with a used one. The thing leaked like a siv. One of the seals was shot.

The advice given looks pretty sound. As mentioned earlier, flushing is important when replacing a bad compressor to remove all of the junk from the system. Also, if you've had the system open for a while the pag oil will soak up moisture, so flushing out all of that moisture saturated oil is definitely a good thing. The evaporator and condensor can usually be be flushed. The drier (or accumulator) can't be flushed, so it'll need to be replaced. If any of the hoses have mufflers in them, either they'll need to be replaced, or have the mufflers removed. The rest of the hoses can be flushed. Be sure to remove the orfice tube (or expansion valve) prior to flushing. Don't flush the compressor with any kind of solvant.

As for the compressor, your mileage may vary. I don't know of any way to check the seals ahead of time, but there are a couple of things to try. The pully that the drive belt connects to should spin freely since the compresor clutch isn't engaged. Try grabbing a hold of the inner hub and turning it by hand. It'll require some effort, but should be do-able. If it won't budge, the compressor may be seized.

As for tools, you should buy a flush-gun and some flush solvant. If you plan on charging the system yourself, you'll also need a vacuum pump and a good set of gauges. If you choose to have a shop vacuum/charge the system for you, you should let the shop install the accumulator (or drier) and add the oil, as both will soak up moisture if left out in the open for any length of time.

Regardless of what you do, it pays to do as much research as possible. Even if you choose to take it into the shop, you'd be an informed customer and much less likely to get ripped off.

If you choose to do this yourself...well it isn't for the faint of heart, but if you do your homework and avoid taking shortcuts it can be done successfully by a do-it-yourselfer. A/C tools are exensive, but they'll come in handy when you need to use them again.

Here are a couple of message boards worth looking at:
Aircondition.Com
Ackits.com

Hope this helps.

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