Car Problems - electric ?? computer ?? vats

will1384 · 08-22-2006, 11:26 PM

I have a 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme SL
and the motor is a 3.1L V6

Ok well a few days ago I was using a soldering iron out in my
car - putting more led lights in - I had got some that would
fit but were a little lose and with the bad roads they would
come lose - so I was like Fu(k-it just sloder then in

well I had a few that were a pain to put in, and one that
I put in backwords - so I fixed them and installed the rest
with power on - so I could see if they would work, the way I
put them in, well that was working good, BTW it was over 100F
outside and even more hot in the car, and my hand sliped
and I blew a light fuse, so I replaced it - and wanted to check the
car out - So I tried to start it, it would not start - I was like oh crap
- think the heat fried my brain -

It will turn over, I am getting Fire, I am getting fuel, but will not start
I tested each wire with a timming light, and used a fuel rail tester

So I check every fuse - my car has 4 fuse boxes, there all good
I try my autoxray scaner - it cant scan the computer - now I am
getting MAD

I check the vats system - seams good but needs more testing,

So I ask 3 different peeps I know - every one told me it sounds like the
computer - and thats also What I think - so I get one and have it
programed for my car and put it in - still does the same thing

I also checked every wire plugin or the ones I can see/get to
- incase there lose

Any Ideas -

Yea I know it most likey something simple - but what

Motorcity · 08-22-2006, 11:41 PM

if you are gettting fuel and spark, there is no logical reason why your car won't start.

blowing a fuse, then replacing it should not cause your car not to start.
Try resetting the vats. Your owner's manual will tell you how. And yes, some GM models will crank with vats enabled. My wife's 98 Malibu (same crappy 3.1l) did it when I tripped it after installing her auto start.

jjh221 · 08-22-2006, 11:59 PM

more leds for what?

will1384 · 08-23-2006, 01:09 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Motorcity

if you are gettting fuel and spark, there is no logical reason why your car won't start.

blowing a fuse, then replacing it should not cause your car not to start.
Try resetting the vats. Your owner's manual will tell you how. And yes, some GM models will crank with vats enabled. My wife's 98 Malibu (same crappy 3.1l) did it when I tripped it after installing her auto start.

I have been leaving the battery un-hooked over night - that should
do it - I think - but I got vats bypased now - still same thing
-

got the info here, I had it wired wrong - thats why it was shutting off
power when I tried to start, after I put the resistor in,

now it acts as before, but still wont start

the leds are for interior lights - mood lighting in back seat

checked the battery and charged it back up a little - 3 days of cranking
- but still the same thing - yea I let it air out in case I flood it,

this is realy odd

jjh221 · 08-23-2006, 01:15 AM

should we call you boris?

jjh221 · 08-23-2006, 01:37 AM

im curious. I dont know much about car. Try pulling the dome lights fuse and starting it.

will1384 · 08-23-2006, 04:17 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jjh221

should we call you boris?

I am going to try to pull that fuse - what else can I do

maybe the car is mad at me or something

jjh221 · 08-23-2006, 10:03 PM

did it work?

will1384 · 08-24-2006, 02:55 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jjh221

did it work?

nope -

I did check for spark - but not how good the spark is, I think
I will check that next

had to drive my dads car - yuck - he dips skoal and spills his spit
cup and skoal all over - never cleans it up - and trash every ware

I can drive an old truck I have got - but it gets 10-15mpg

My dad tells me I should junk my car

jjh221 · 08-24-2006, 02:59 AM

lol....

Tell him to get the packets and use a bottle with a cap.

I dont know what it would be...sounds electrical lol um :shrugs:

will1384 · 08-27-2006, 05:54 PM

every thing - still checks out fine - I got ****ed and removed
the computer and tried to start - just to see what it would do,

It started and ran for about 20-30 seconds

- makes me wonder even more -

I thought about the crank position sensor - but I dont think I would get
fire

if it was the ignition module I would not get fire

if it was the fuel system I would not have fuel

and the battery is good

it has to be the computer

I wonder if I got a bad computer - or they programed
it wrong

Motorcity · 08-28-2006, 01:26 AM

The 3.1 will run with a bad crank sensor. That engine has 2 crank sensors and 1 cam sensor. If a sensor was bad, your check engine light would be on. Is it??

Try this: Key OFF, hold gas pedal to floor. Keep pedal floored, do not pump. Turn key ON, then crank for several seconds. If it sounds like it wants to fire, keep cranking. But, do not crank for more than 15 seconds at a time. Doing this puts the computer in what is called Clear Flood Mode.
Basically, it will reset the engine controller to default parameters. If/when the car starts, keep the pedal floored until it stops sputtering and starts to rev up. once you are at 2-2500 rpm (if you have a tach) slowly let off the pedal and allow the car to resume to a normal idle.

Now, if your check engine light is on, you need to pull the fault codes to see what ails the beast.

If you don't have a scan tool, or one of thosae cheesy code readers, you can cycle the key ON-OFF three times, ending with ON. Watch the check engine light. It will flash the codes. Each code will be 2 digits, and code 55 is end of codes. The flashes will represent each digit. So, a code 12 would be "flash" pause "flash" "flash"

If you post any fault codes, I will decipher for you.

god luck

will1384 · 08-28-2006, 05:01 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Motorcity

The 3.1 will run with a bad crank sensor. That engine has 2 crank sensors and 1 cam sensor. If a sensor was bad, your check engine light would be on. Is it??

Try this: Key OFF, hold gas pedal to floor. Keep pedal floored, do not pump. Turn key ON, then crank for several seconds. If it sounds like it wants to fire, keep cranking. But, do not crank for more than 15 seconds at a time. Doing this puts the computer in what is called Clear Flood Mode.
Basically, it will reset the engine controller to default parameters. If/when the car starts, keep the pedal floored until it stops sputtering and starts to rev up. once you are at 2-2500 rpm (if you have a tach) slowly let off the pedal and allow the car to resume to a normal idle.

Now, if your check engine light is on, you need to pull the fault codes to see what ails the beast.

If you don't have a scan tool, or one of thosae cheesy code readers, you can cycle the key ON-OFF three times, ending with ON. Watch the check engine light. It will flash the codes. Each code will be 2 digits, and code 55 is end of codes. The flashes will represent each digit. So, a code 12 would be "flash" pause "flash" "flash"

If you post any fault codes, I will decipher for you.

god luck

the bad thing is I have a scan tool, an AutoXray EZ-Scan
- that used to read the car just fine but after what ever
happened it wont - all it will say is "Vehicle Not Responding"
- but it will read other cars just fine

the check engine light is not on - but "service engine soon"
stays on

But I will try some of that stuff - when I wake up

xdjxklusivex · 08-28-2006, 06:25 AM

prolly the computer bro but then again 100 degrees + shudnt effect the computer its made to stand up to even more

will1384 · 08-28-2006, 03:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Motorcity

The 3.1 will run with a bad crank sensor. That engine has 2 crank sensors and 1 cam sensor. If a sensor was bad, your check engine light would be on. Is it??

Try this: Key OFF, hold gas pedal to floor. Keep pedal floored, do not pump. Turn key ON, then crank for several seconds. If it sounds like it wants to fire, keep cranking. But, do not crank for more than 15 seconds at a time. Doing this puts the computer in what is called Clear Flood Mode.
Basically, it will reset the engine controller to default parameters. If/when the car starts, keep the pedal floored until it stops sputtering and starts to rev up. once you are at 2-2500 rpm (if you have a tach) slowly let off the pedal and allow the car to resume to a normal idle.

Now, if your check engine light is on, you need to pull the fault codes to see what ails the beast.

If you don't have a scan tool, or one of thosae cheesy code readers, you can cycle the key ON-OFF three times, ending with ON. Watch the check engine light. It will flash the codes. Each code will be 2 digits, and code 55 is end of codes. The flashes will represent each digit. So, a code 12 would be "flash" pause "flash" "flash"

If you post any fault codes, I will decipher for you.

god luck

I was able to use the clear flood thing - to start the car, but it never
stops running a little ruff, it will stay running tho, but the exhaust
smells bad - and when I press down on the gas it bogs down
and then picks up - and I can not re-start unless I do the clear
flood thing again -

I got the auto xray to scan - but not the 1994 car setting that used
to work with my car - but I was able to scan it has a 1995 car

guess the computer is new-er than my car - but still no codes

Thanks - never knew the clear flood thing

Quote: Originally Posted by xdjxklusivex

prolly the computer bro but then again 100 degrees + shudnt effect the computer its made to stand up to even more

- It was a joke - my real brain in my head