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Old 06-07-2008, 09:14 PM   #16
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Most window motors are reversed by changing the polarity (+ and -) on two leads.

Something to think about when wiring window control relays in addition to standard OEM switches:

What happens when your computer is driving a relay on to raise the window and someone is pushing the manual switch down? If you haven't thought this through, you could be asking for problems. However you wire it, only one control source should be able to activate at a time so that your controls are not trying to fight each other.

As for Express UP or DOWN features, you can just use a timer to stop running the motor after a pre-determined time instead of sensing the motor stall current.
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Old 06-07-2008, 09:31 PM   #17
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Quote: Originally Posted by JimmyFitz View Post
What happens when your computer is driving a relay on to raise the window and someone is pushing the manual switch down?

That would connect both sides of the motor to (+) and does nothing until you let go.

The modules sold with alarms have been tested and work well. The one I have cuts off when you do that because the current drops to 0. It sequences each window one at a time and even cracks the windows when it's hot. It actually uses a PIC16F863.

Oh, also current sensing allows you to stick your head in the window to stop it.
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Last edited by Curiosity; 06-07-2008 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 06-07-2008, 09:54 PM   #18
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Quote: Originally Posted by Curiosity View Post
Oh, also current sensing allows you to stick your head in the window to stop it.


yeah, but we dont reccommend that!

We have this on my mom's lexus and it works ok with some force, but not well enough for me to trust it to stop with my hand in there for real! When the dealership was demo-ing it though it worked well of course, I am just too scared to try because those have some force to them!
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Old 06-07-2008, 11:47 PM   #19
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Quote: Originally Posted by Curiosity View Post
That would connect both sides of the motor to (+) and does nothing until you let go.

The modules sold with alarms have been tested and work well. The one I have cuts off when you do that because the current drops to 0. It sequences each window one at a time and even cracks the windows when it's hot. It actually uses a PIC16F863.

I'm a little confused by this. Based on how i'm thinking it would be hooked up if you have a stationary position of both terminals to the motor being grounded and the relays switch that based on the output of the fusion brain then if you are pressing the switch to go down and ur computer is telling it to go up i would that you would be connecting power to ground. Am i wrong here? Am i thinking thinking of the connection incorrectly?
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Old 06-08-2008, 12:29 AM   #20
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Power will never short to ground. Look at my first schematic. It works just like the passenger switches. It's either passive or powering. Here's a simpler example.
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Old 06-08-2008, 12:49 AM   #21
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I see what you are saying now. I had it setup as two separate circuits which i did to make it simpler and made me more confused lol. Thanks Curiosity
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Old 07-19-2008, 01:08 AM   #22
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Quote: Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
and for automated windows, put a current sensor on the motors. When current draw gets to about 150% of normal, it is fully up or down, so turn off output.

Wouldn't it just be easier to put the relays on a timer?

Pros: You don't have to buy a current sensor

Cons: You have to time how long it takes for the window to close

Concerns: Will the other method of using a current sensor cut power sooner than just timing how long it takes the window to roll up? I'm imagining that the timer wouldn't be active more than a second or two than it needs to be; this is also probably how long the average person holds the button longer than need be held to close/open the window.
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Old 07-19-2008, 01:18 AM   #23
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what about sensing voltage... It's acceptable for motor speed control circuits. Motor slows=> CEMF voltage across the motor goes down, etc.
As far as the timer, I'd hate to be the one who gets something stuck in the window.
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Old 07-19-2008, 03:25 AM   #24
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A timer assumes the window will travel the full distance. If it's already closed, that's a lot of current going through the motor for a long time.
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Old 07-19-2008, 08:52 AM   #25
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Quote: Originally Posted by h3rk View Post
As far as the timer, I'd hate to be the one who gets something stuck in the window.

Ummm...aren't power windows required to stop (as a safety feature) when they hit an obstruction? Of course you would need feedback from the window drive motor to tell the FB it had stopped so it could turn the relay off.
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:03 AM   #26
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Quote: Originally Posted by Dan2008 View Post
Ummm...aren't power windows required to stop (as a safety feature) when they hit an obstruction? Of course you would need feedback from the window drive motor to tell the FB it had stopped so it could turn the relay off.

well if the output of the brain is a pulse (long enough to register factory auto-down) across the window switch, then yes you can take advantage of the OEM circuitry to provide that safety. But if the way the interface with the brain drives the window is more direct (which I would stay away from, if possible), or the window never had auto-up, then no, the overload in the window motor will probably open first and I don't think that switch is designed with obstruction detection in mind. But I might be wrong about that.
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:17 AM   #27
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It should use the same motor overload functionality whether it has auto up/down or not. How else would it know when the window had reached the top or bottom when you just hold the switch until the windows is fully open/closed? Another thing this does is prevent broken glass.

Even the cheap power windows ($145 for both) I'm putting in my 1934 Ford pickup will stop when it hits an obstruction regardless of whether it is auto or you are holding the switch.

You should be able to hold the switch and monitor the circuit to see what happens when the window reaches the top or bottom.

You might be able to put something that approximates an arm (tennis ball?) in the window path then use the auto up to see what happens. WARNING: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR BROKEN GLASS IF YOU TRY THIS METHOD!!!
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:49 AM   #28
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I'm not sure what the wiring on windows are like but I'm assuming it's something like this:

----------------------------
|
|OPEN
\
\ ---SWITCH----------------

|
|CLOSE
----------------------------


If this is the case, then setting up the relays like this is my plan


----------------------------
| \
|OPEN \ RELAY 1
\ \
\ ---SWITCH----------------
/
| / RELAY 2
|CLOSE /
----------------------------



Does anyone KNOW what the effect would be if both the "open" and "close" circuits are both CLOSED at the same time? I'm going to guess that the circuit would be short circuited and the motor would not move at all. But I'm worried what the effect on the battery and circuitry would be.
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:51 AM   #29
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what vehicle is this...?
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:54 AM   #30
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Quote: Originally Posted by h3rk View Post
what vehicle is this...?

I would think that all power windows, that have a single switch, would follow that wiring. I'm not sure how else they'd do it.
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